A Week of Canoe Adventures: Western Pennsylvania Solo Canoe Rendezvous, Algonquin, and the Canadian Canoe Museum

[SouthernKevlar]

Chapter 1



Last December I started planning for a week of canoe-based fun. This year’s Maine Canoe Symposium was scheduled for May 30th through June 1st. The Western Pennsylvania Solo Canoe Rendezvous was scheduled for June 6th through the 8th. It was a long way for me to drive to either event for just a couple or few days but, with both a week apart, I could do the Symposium, paddle a few days in the Adirondacks and attend the Rendezvous before driving home. That plan unraveled when I learned of the Rendezvous’ change of dates from the usual first full weekend of June to the same week as the Maine symposium. I was not sure that I could justify the drive from South Carolina to test out a few canoes that I was curious about, nor the additional drive to Maine for a few days of classes. As I looked at the map, I realized that the Western Pennsylvania Solo Canoe Rendezvous was right at sixty percent of the way to Algonquin Provencial Park. On the way back I could also hit another of my bucket-list spots, the Canadian Canoe Museum in Peterborough, Ontario.

In 2020 I had planned for an eight-day solo trip to Algonquin, had my permits, maps, guidebooks and gear ready, then the world was struck with the Covid pandemic and the borders were closed. Maybe I could get to Algonquin this year! I studied my maps, read my books and reached out on-line for suggestions and ended up with a list of eight possible routes just in case of permit issues. Due to appointments the week of June 8th, I had to shorten the Algonquin visit to just four days, so I ended up getting my permits for June 2nd through 5th. I realized that this is during the start of the traditional blackfly season, but it fit my schedule and enabled me to get my first-choice route without permit difficulties. As it turned out, the blackflies were not bothersome.

On Thursday, May 29, I started driving north for my yearly solo adventure. After camping that night at Riffle Run Campground, a nice Corps of Engineers campground just off I-79 in West Virginia, I proceeded the next morning to Cooper’s Lake Event Venue. Friday morning started out mostly cloudy with rain beginning as I approached Pittsburg. Rain and wind greeted me as I unloaded the Souris River Tranquility and set up camp at the Rendezvous. Wool, fleece, boots and rain gear was the high fashion of the weekend.

Although canoes did not venture out on the lake that day, a group of canoeists can always have a good time when there are canoes and food around. The day was spent meeting new friends, talking about canoes, canoe design and construction and canoe trips. Around five o’clock the traditional vegetarian pot-luck was spread out, which interrupted the talking with the sound of canoeists chomping wonderful foods. With the weather unchanged for the evening, most of the attendees went off for an early sleep.

Saturday morning was still cold ( I heard it said that it was the coldest May 31st ever recorded in Pennsylvania, with windchills in the 30’s), windy and wet, but the pancake breakfast kept up the paddler’s spirits. The rain did start letting up in the late morning and the canoes began braving the lake. I was able to test out a half-dozen solo canoes were on my “I Have Not Paddled One Of Those Yet” list, my main reason for attending the event. There were some freestyle lessons going on and a sandwich smorgasbord for a lunch. Boats continued to ply the water throughout Saturday afternoon as the clouds started breaking up and the winds began diminishing until the catered BBQ chicken dinner was announced. I think the sound of gnawing bones may have scared the geese. Even with the foul weather we ended up with around 80 attendees from 14 states and Canada.

Sunday I was up with the sound of the birds, around 5:30 or so, had some tea and a bit of breakfast, loaded the wet tent into the back of Big Blue and set GPS for Huntsville, Ontario. The weather was looking good for the folks still at the Rendezvous, but I had my reservation set for tonight. The drive through Pennsylvania and the vineyards of New York went smoothly, then it was back onto the interstates and to the Peace Bridge. I went through Customs without difficulty:


Customs Agent: Purpose of your visit?

Me (Looking up at the canoe): Pleasure. I’ll be canoeing in Algonquin Provincial Park.

Customs Agent: Do you have any guns?

Me: No.

Customs Agent: Do you have any Pepper Spray or Bear Spray?

Me: No.

Customs Agent (Looking concerned): What do you do if you meet a bear?

Me: There are only Black Bears around Algonquin and we have those in the Appalachian Mountains, too. Usually, they see me and start moving away.

Customs Agent: But what if he doesn’t?

Me: Then I yell at him, jump up and down, wave my hat and my arms, and they always took off. I guess he figures that I am uglier than he is!

With that the Customs Agent starts a belly laugh, hands my passport back and says “Go On”.


After getting through the GTA (Greater Toronto Area) and the massive highway system, I stopped at the Swift Canoe shop in Muskoka for a break. The knowledgeable young ladies working the counter that day were very helpful and took me on a tour of the shop and pointed out the new boats and finishes in their lineup. They also suggested that if I wish to try out any of them, I should call the shops near Algonquin and schedule a demo. That new Cruiser 17.8 looks fast!

Then it was on to my motel in Huntsville for the night. I stopped at a grocery store for fresh supplies, noting the way that the “Buy Canadian” movement had really caught on in the country. I then had a wonderful Indian meal at a downtown restaurant called “Marigold”; if you like spicy Indian food, I would recommend trying the Paneer Korma. After getting back to the motel I did my final packing of the portage pack and day pack with the last minute knowledge of the weather forecast. It was going to be colder and windier than I had hoped, but I brought everything from t-shirts to winter gear so I just had to choose what to take and what to leave in the car. I loaded the gear and food into the car so I could just pull it out and load the canoe at the entry point, then showered and got to bed early for an early start in the morning.

 

[SouthernKevlar]

Chapter 2


After a fine Monday morning motel breakfast, I drove out on Highway 60 and checked in at the West Gate of Algonquin Provencial Park. My next stop would be the Rock Lake Access Point, where the office did not open until 11:00, so checking in at the West Gate was essential. The access was very nice, with a long water-level wooden platform to set up on. The weather was beautiful and a light breeze was blowing off the south-west. I loaded my gear and paddled up the river into the lake. I was surprised to see the number of cottages and boathouses on the lake. Later, while talking to a local, I found out that the Provincial Park bureau had leased out land on the lakes near the highway to raise funds during a budget crisis in the 1950’s. Many of the small cottages were quite nice and are accessible only by boat; motors up to 20 HP are allowed on this lake. I saw only two other canoes and no motorboats while paddling up Rock Lake.

As I cruised up the lake and explored the islands, the wind increased in intensity and gusts more frequent. I broke off from exploring and paddled up to the Rock Lake to Pen Lake Portage with a stiff wind mostly quartering off the starboard bow. As I approached the portage, the sounds of the falls quite evident and the landing well marked. I offloaded the gear and did a double carry, first the pack and then the canoe and day pack. The 475-meter (520 yard) portage trail was a bit boggy in some places, but well maintained. At the Pen Lake end a platform was located about 6 feet from shore in about a foot of water. I noticed that there was a very nice blue 70-liter hiking backpack full of camping gear leaning against a tree and wondered if someone had carried it over but left it while out fishing or if they would get to camp and realize that they didn’t have their camping gear!

With the headwind still getting stronger, I put my head down and paddled quickly up the 3 miles to my chosen campsite (based on a bit of reading), a point just opposite from the Galipo River. I did not worry as to it being taken, I had only seen one other canoe on Pen Lake, a tandem near the islands about a third of the way up the lake. If it had been taken, I still had several other choices nearby on the south end of the lake. This site would make would a good base camp for my planned daytrips to Clydegale and Welcome Lakes. The campsite was vacant, so I landed, carried my gear up the hill and made camp at the well-used site. There was a nice large firepit and a great view of the lake which was now starting to develop whitecaps. Being on the point, the wind also helped to keep down the blackflies and the mosquitos. I set up camp, explored the surroundings, found the thunderbox, gathered firewood, found a nice limb from which to hang my food and did some fishing from the shore. No fish on the menu tonight, oh well.

As evening fell, the wind slowly did the same. I ended cooking dinner on my gas stove; I had hoped to use the fireplace. The sunset made a beautiful display with the smoke from the massive Manitoba wildfires reaching high into atmosphere. As darkness fell, I did decide that the wind was low enough to safely light the fire. The firepit did a good job sheltering the fire until bedtime and the flickering flames cheered the campsite.

Tuesday morning came around 5:15 as the calls from the birds became an alarm clock. I stretched back out and hit my mental “snooze button”. No rush today, just relaxing, a short jaunt down the lake to the Clydegale portage, some fishing, lunch and more exploring. After I rose from the sleeping bag around 7:00 and ate a big bowl of Muesli, I grabbed my fishing gear and pointed the canoe toward the portage. I fished a bit on the way, creeped along the shoreline looking for wildlife and taking my time. Maybe too much time. By 10:30 the gusts were getting stronger again so I decided to return to camp and do Clydegale Lake that afternoon if the winds subsided or tomorrow with an earlier start. The winds did not die down, the whitecaps appeared and I was pretty much windbound for the rest of the day. As a solo paddler, I did not want to push my luck, especially since I had not seen anyone on the lake since yesterday morning. I ended up exploring more of the woods, wood gathering, camp chores, more shore fishing (still no fish for dinner) and munching on snacks.

As evening drew near, the air felt different. Wednesday had been forecasted as sunny, with clouds moving in and Thursday as a possibility of rain late in the day. I try to avoid using my electronic devices while on a trip, but felt that it would be a good time to check my Garmin Inreach weather forecast. Things had changed a bit; Wednesday now was being reported with afternoon thunderstorms continuing into the night and rain all day Thursday. Plans were now changed. If I didn’t get out tomorrow, I would probably be stuck in camp until maybe Friday or later. After dinner I began to pack up everything that I would not need for the night and be ready to pack the canoe and paddle back in the morning calm.

On Wednesday morning I rolled out of bed at 5:30and noticed the breeze was a bit stiffer than yesterday morning. I did a quick tea and a breakfast protein bar, packed my pad and sleeping bag, took down the tent, cleaned up camp, loaded the packs into the canoe and after a last patrol of the camp to make sure that I had not forgotten anything, I started paddling back to the access point. The breeze had dropped as I watched the sun rise over the trees. I wondered how long the lull would last and paddled straight to the Pen to Rock Lake portage. At the landing I noticed that the blue backpack was still there and made a mental note to report it.

After the portage, I continued straight on down Rock Lake with a building tailwind. At about a half mile from the access the gusts started picking up. I made it back to the landing, which is actually on the Madawaska River about 500 yards downstream from Rock Lake, and unloaded the canoe. As I was loading the 33-pound Tranquility onto the car, a gust hit the canoe and slid the stern of the canoe off the rack as I was preparing to tie down the front strap. I caught it, sort of. It had done a half turn, presenting me with the bottom, while the aluminum gunwale scratched the side of the car. Now I know another reason to like wood gunwales. I called my wife to let her know that I was off the water and that I would be driving down to Peterborough. She offered to make reservations at a motel for me and booked me a room online at the Comfort Inn.

On the way out I noticed that the office was just opening. I stopped in and reported the backpack at the Pen Lake end of the portage and that I would be leaving a day early. To my surprise, the officer asked if I wanted a refund for the missed night. It came to $ 9.94 Canadian, or as the officer put it “A coffee and doughnut at Tim Hortons”. She also had seen the forecast and agreed that it was probably wise to cut the trip short as the wind “is really starting to get up out there”. They would also be sending someone to pick up the lost pack.

 

[SouthernKevlar]

Chapter 3


As I drove through the countryside to Peterborough I took my time. I stopped for a bite of lunch, made a gas stop, looked at the building clouds and the whitecaps on the many lakes that I passed. I entered Peterborough and found the Comfort Inn, where was told that I had no reservation. I showed the very helpful young lady at the desk my confirmation number, she made a couple of calls and found that my wife had made the reservation at the Quality Inn, which was just a block and a half away. On my way to the car the I noticed a couple of fellows at the lobby door eyeing the canoe on my car. As I walked by one said that it was a nice canoe, the asked if I was planning on going to the Canoe Museum. After we talked for a minute, he started began telling me of the strip canoe he was building. I drove the block and a half and as I pulled under the portico, I noticed that the two cars ahead of me had canoes on their racks as well. Peterborough is truly a canoe town!

After a good night’s sleep and one of the best “motel breakfast” that I have found (a big thanks goes out to the two busy gals working the breakfast buffet that morning), I entered the Canadian Canoe Museum into my GPS. I was surprised when I got there and found an old, empty and deserted building. The GPS had actually taken me to the old location, used prior to moving to the new location. A quick review of my map and I was off to the correct museum.

As you enter the building you are immersed in all things Canoe. In the lobby and attached café, canoes hang from the ceiling. As you walk up the stairs to the main exhibit area you look through plate glass windows at the warehouse storing the majority of the collection, which is available for guided tours once a month. The display of the canoes in the main exhibit area is grouped into various sections and themes; historic canoes, canoes of the First Nations, canoes of famous and influential paddlers such as Bill Mason and Gordon Lightfoot, sporting and racing canoes, canoes used in the exploration of the Canadian frontier and canoes from around the world. As you go back downstairs, there is a workshop where a canoe mold is set up to demonstrate the making of a wood-and-canvas canoe. The craftsman in the modern workshop his day appeared to be making displays.

It was time for lunch and I decided to try “The Silver Bean Café” located in the lobby. It was a great decision; a relaxed atmosphere, a half dozen canoes hanging from the ceiling, wonderful made-to-order foods, baked good and desserts. They also have a nice selection of local beers and wine, along with a list of hot and cold drinks.

After being fortified in body and soul, I began the long drive home. I went to the east end of Lake Ontario and crossed the border at the Thousand Islands bridge and headed south for a two day trip on the Interstate Highway System. That would be a long boring story in itself.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Thanks for beginning this multi-destination report, SK.

I was able to test out a half-dozen solo canoes were on my “I Have Not Paddled One Of Those Yet” list, my main reason for attending the event.

Did anything in particular strike (or unstrike) your fancy?

 

[stevet]

Great report, thanks for the museum pics. I met Kirk Wipper (sp?) and looked at canoes many years ago when the collection was kept at a summer camp in some odd old buildings. Amazing to see what it has become! Have to make it there someday.

 

[lowangle al]

Great TR. I like the idea of combining canoe events with some tripping. Thanks for all the photos.

 

[memaquay]

Very nice report! I have to get to the canoe museum, maybe this summer. Interesting sign for the museum, the first title in Anishinaabemowin, Jimaan Kinomaagewin, roughly translates as canoe teacher, or canoe teachings.
Did any of the solo canoes you tried out want to come home with you?

 

[Gamma1214]

Thanks for taking the time to write up a unique and enjoyable TR! Awesome way to combine some very different canoe experiences.