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Wasioto Whitehall Build

This here is where you wish you had 5-6ppl reading along and commenting.
Interesting project for sure & I'm reading along but I'm still mostly trying to figure out what you're doing as it's a real departure from anything that I've done. One suggestion that I will offer at this point: Rather than towels, boiling water & heat guns, can you set up a 15-16 foot section of pvc pipe & a wallpaper steamer?

I've found that even submerging wood in cold water and soaking for a couple of days is often enough to make it pliable but I've never tried bending them after they've been laminated. I'm interested to see how you make out.
 
Interesting project for sure & I'm reading along but I'm still mostly trying to figure out what you're doing as it's a real departure from anything that I've done.
Thank you! For all four of those.

One suggestion that I will offer at this point: Rather than towels, boiling water & heat guns, can you set up a 15-16 foot section of pvc pipe & a wallpaper steamer?
That might be the best way. I'll have a clearer view of the part and can watch it doesn't twist as I add the additional bend. I'll still probably have to build the form (to this step I added using that arced form the gunnels were resting on in early picture, with 4ft boards mounted perpendicularly to form a tray, not so much to force the gunnels into shape but as guide to see proper arc as I alter what they're at), but what I'll GET to do is build a steamer. Been wantn a nice wuna nem. Something with a good wide water vessel, for lots of steam generating surface area.

I've found that even submerging wood in cold water and soaking for a couple of days is often enough to make it pliable but I've never tried bending them after they've been laminated.
Or that. I'll have to look at what temp rating T-88 can handle, I wouldn't want them to delam in the pipe or towels. I didn't pre-soak before lamination because I didn't want the wood waterlogged prior to epoxy. But epoxy holds up to water alone. It might be best to do the simple 'soak for 3-5 days, remove, bend, and allow to rest in position for 5-7 days' technique.

I'm interested to see how you make out.
Thank you friend. I'm interested to see if I DO.
 
I didn't want the wood waterlogged prior to epoxy.
I guess that might depend on how much patience you have. When fresh-cut, wood is often 50% or more water and most will air dry to 8-10% in a year or two. Even with steaming, there's simply no way that you're going to get back to green wood moisture levels.

About the only thing that I've bent are seat parts and I soak strips (3/16 x 1 inch) in water for 3-5 days and then put them in the bending jigs. They then dry in the jigs for 5-7 days (usually inside a heated space in winter so the relative humidity of the surrounding air is pretty low) and then I laminate with epoxy. So far, I've seen little evidence of dampness in the center of the packs (7 strips) when removed from the jigs so I assume that the water dries out of the wood about as quickly as it soaked in (real technical, huh?)

With steam, you might get more water in more quickly but I'd think that it'll still dry out relatively soon. Just don't be in a hurry (?)

Also, I've never steamed wood but my understanding is that it works best if it's soaked for a few days before steaming.
 
can you set up a 15-16 foot section of pvc pipe & a wallpaper steamer?

I've never tried it but I've seen people use steam bags. Basically wrap the wood in a plastic "bag" and then insert the steam hose. Benefits are less setup/materials and you can manipulate the wood while it's in the bag being steamed.

I believe DougD used this method when steaming gunwales to fit his Rob Roy, which bent too much to install dry. He was able to gain pliancy and then clamped the bag and all to the boat to get the correct shape. Turned off the steam and let them cool and dry for a day or two before unclamping and removing the plastic. They held much of their shape and could then be installed normally.


Alan
 
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