I'm not sure if I'll do my Duluth Packs, but I have a few Woods Packs I'd like to try waxing. I like his idea of making an interior frame to help keep the pack tight while working on it is a good idea.......I have a couple of real old Duluth Packs, #3’s that need some referbishing. Once I get them cleaned up will try the half & half wax treatment. Making a frame to slip inside will be a scrap piece of plywood cut to the proper size. I have always liked the envelope style of the #2 & #3’s.
Thanks for posting.
I'll try to supply some answers to your questions Oddssey, but these are mostly guesses and take them for what it's worth.That is a nice Woods Nessmuck he has there. I've never tried waxing cotton before so I have questions without answers along with some assumptions.
1) Why mix (p) paraffin and (b) bee's wax? Given p is cheaper and more plentiful maybe p stretches the cost? Or maybe because b being organic unlike p being a petrochemical, perhaps b degrades quicker so p extends the life of the wax treatment?
2) Is there an advantage to treating the outside of the pack rather than the inside instead? The fabric looks almost saturated so the difference may be negligible.
3) How does the wax treatment lose H2O repellency, through abrasion, heat, other, all of the above?
4) Does the wax treatment do more than waterproof? Does it add some level of abrasion resistance? Repel dirt or attract it? Neither?
I am not grizzled enough to have these answers.
ps I've tried some spray on water proofing products without success. I may give Nikwax a try. I wouldn't mind adding some water repellency to some clothing.
I do my ""waxing" using Sno-Seal
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IMO it works just fine. I've used it on a couple canvas bags as well as leather items I've made. I have another bag standing by for more Sno-Seal to arrive. Use your hands and rub it into the material. Then take a heat gun to it.