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Adhesives

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Hi All, I know this topic has been covered in detail in several post (great bunch of information), but the one question I'm looking for an answer to doesn't seem to be there. Some help would be appreciated.

I'm re-outfitting a RX boat and want to tear out the glued-in kneeling pad etc...All very simple with some patience. I am terrible at getting my glued-in kneeling pads where I want them exactly without the need to adjust them. I usually use contact cement to glue things to the inside of RX boats, but, of course, there is no ability to re-position things once set in place - it bonds instantly.

What is your recommended adhesive that will give me some (very small amount of time) working time to slide things around before the glue sets up? I like to have me kneeling pads go almost from gunnel to gunnel and long enough to keep my feet off the vinyl. So, it's tough to get these big pieces down in one go. I'd prefer to minimize the patchwork approach and use several small pieces of foam. Besides, no matter how small, I'd get them in the wrong place initially..

Thanks and happy holidays.
 
One thing you can do with contact cement, is to put 2 coats, let the first one dry, then second coat need to be somewhat wet, not real wet but more than tacky, and then you put the knee pad down on it and you should be able to slide things a around on the "fresh" glue for a bit.... But you will have to weight them down wile the glue is curing!!
 
A better way is to let the two glued surfaces dry the cover with a layer of paper. Position the kneeling pad where you want and the slide the paper out while holding the pad in place.
 
I am terrible at getting my glued-in kneeling pads where I want them exactly without the need to adjust them. I usually use contact cement to glue things to the inside of RX boats, but, of course, there is no ability to re-position things once set in place - it bonds instantly.

What is your recommended adhesive that will give me some (very small amount of time) working time to slide things around before the glue sets up? I like to have me kneeling pads go almost from gunnel to gunnel and long enough to keep my feet off the vinyl. So, it's tough to get these big pieces down in one go. I'd prefer to minimize the patchwork approach and use several small pieces of foam. Besides, no matter how small, I'd get them in the wrong place initially.

I have always been leery of applying still moist contact cement, but it remains my preferred adhesive for minicel adhesion. Getting large pieces perfectly positioned can be a challenge, but some technique tricks can help.

I have a large 4 inch thick foam pad that I use for shop canoe test fittings and locations. I sit in the canoe with the pad on the floor to determine the best placement and then outline the pad(s) in pencil.

With the boat back up on sawhorses at a convenient working height I mask 1/8[SUP]th[/SUP] inch outside the pencil perimeter with blue painters tape, so I have a distinct and easily visible placement area boxed out.

Then, before any contact cement goes on, I do some dry test fits to determine how I am actually going to hold the minicel once the contact cement is on, how I am best able to place, lay, curl or unfurl it in place, which hand goes where and how. . . . .that stuff really matters, like crossing a stream stepping on scattered rocks, where you need to start off the crossing with the correct foot or get halfway across with nowhere to step

With really big pieces the easiest solution is often to have a shop helper (“Oh, son, I need a hand for a minute”) and to dry test fit with their help holding and positioning the minicel at one end while I press down the other. For something like a big piece of minicel with a thwart or yoke positioned above making things even more awkward a helper is almost essential.

After the minicel is in place I remove the painters tape, push it all well down by hand, cover the minicel edges with wax paper and lay sand bag weighs (large Zip-locks full of sand) on top overnight for compression. The next day (or later) I run a bead of Amazing Plumber’s Goop around the pad/floor edge. That little bead of adhesive/sealant is, well, amazing at keeping the edges from lifting and preventing water and sand infiltration under the pad. Same goes for Vyna-bonded or G/flexed D-ring pads.

Other things that help with adhesive durability. I round off any right angle corners on the minicel, and round off the top edge all the way around with Dragonskin to help alleviate any sheer forces pushing or peeling against the pad.

As far as the actual application of contact cement I alcohol clean the area even before sitting in the canoe to make pencil marks. My contact cement routine is one or two coats on the hull and always three on the minicel, letting the coats dry between applications. Once the last coat on the hull and foam is almost dry I hit both the hull and foam with a heat gun (a blow drier will work) and try my damnedest to get it seated inside the painters tape box.

Painter’s tape distinct box outline, dry test fits ‘til I am comfortable with how to lay it in place, shop helper for large pieces. Even the really big pieces of minicel usually hit within the 1/8[SUP]th[/SUP] inch of slop I have left with the tape outline.

Usually; provided I have practiced the test fit. Sometimes I get ahead of myself in the shop and have started with the contact cement before I realize I skipped trying any test fits. Those are the pieces that come out oh-crap cockeyed.

About “one big piece gunwale to gunwale” – I much prefer to use two pieces and leave a water channel down the middle, even if that is only a couple of inch gap in between. A single full size piece of minicel forms a little dam in the boat, holding water (dirt/sand/grit) against the edges of the pad, which doesn’t help with adhesion longevity.

And two medium sized pieces are easier to fit correctly then one giant piece.
 
I have used G-Flex in the past with success. It allows for adjustment without setting up instantly. I used it on kneeling pads on my Courier and on a seat on the Pamlico I had at one time. After I had them in place I put a pile of weight on them and let them sit overnight. Just my 02 worth.

dougd
 
Good tutorial Mike!! When I outfit a boat I'm on the clock, and I have done so many that I developed my own little techniques, but if you are a first timer or have lots of time, what Mike wrote is super good!!
 
Thanks for the tips. Maybe a combination of using G-Flex as suggested by dougd along with the excellent advice of having extra hands on deck an taping the area off with blue tape as suggested by Mike is the way to go.

Mike - thanks for the thought about leaving a drainage channel down the middle of the boat. I know what you mean about a single full size piece of minicel forming a little dam in the boat and holding water and grime. I think I will use that trick.

Thanks all.
 
For everything that is not in tension( knee pads, pedestal) no need to use Gflex, that stuff is not cheep and not needed. The contact cement in the red can(USA) and Lepage in the blue can (Canada) is plenty good, I've outfitted hundreds of canoes and never had a problem, and it is much easier to remove if you need to replace the pad or pedestal. Prep of the surface is really important!
 
Follow Mike's way, and the goop beading around the perimeter is a good trick for sure, use it!
 
Good tutorial Mike!! When I outfit a boat I'm on the clock, and I have done so many that I developed my own little techniques, but if you are a first timer or have lots of time, what Mike wrote is super good!!

That test fit and painters tape method is time consuming, but I have lots of time and deliberately try to slow my roll when outfitting a canoe. I know I have a tendency to work too fast (oops, skipped the test fit), or worse get various outfitting processes out of the most efficient sequence, so I end up doing task A, B, C and E, and then have to wait a day to go back to complete task D.

The painter’s tape box helps immensely with alignment. If the perimeter outline is just a pencil mark I can barely see it, and can’t see all of it when getting the pad hovering above position-aligned for instant-stuck placement. Marking the outline in more visible Sharpie gets smeary when my contact cement brush strokes overlap. Plus the painter’s tape gives me nice straight edges with the contact cement on the hull, and I don’t have to try for precise contact cement brush strokes

I am absolutely sold on the efficacy of sealing the edges of minicel or vinyl D-ring pads with Plumber’s Goop, or even a tiny paintbrush bead of G/flex around D-rings.

Once the edges of minicel or vinyl pads start to lift and water & grit infiltrate beneath the death knell has been sounded.
 
I’m still thinking about “I like to have my kneeling pads go almost from gunnel to gunnel and long enough to keep my feet off the vinyl”.

Definitely two pieces with a water channel between. Not just for the channel. As with many things, including paddling, it will be easier if you can face your work. For installing the minicel almost up to the gunwale it will be easier if you cock the hull over at a 45 and do the installation looking down into the hull, instead of bending over and looking/working upside down.

With the hull cocked over half way on its side you will also be able to (one-side-per-day) sand bag weight the contact cemented minicel, kinda hard to do that on a vertical sidewall.

I like the “almost gunwale to gunwale”, allowing a bit of gap between the minicel and underside of the inwale, so that area isn’t collecting crud at that transition when the canoe is stored upside down. (Especially if you have wood gunwales).

One last caveat about foam and contact cement. Thinner foam material like sleep pad stuff wants to curl up as the contact cement is drying between multiple coats, and it curls up, with the glued side curved in the opposite direction of the chine curves. To hold the foam in place and keep it from curling I stick a long push pin through each corner and leave the pins in place unit the last contact cement coat is on and heat gunned.
 
I, too, like the idea of a channel between the two halves. Brilliant idea.

It might have been brilliant, had I not installed ungapped minicel pads in a boat or two and learned some dang dam lessons. Yes, “or two” *. Not brilliant, or at least not a fast learner.

If you are extending the foam up to within an inch or two of the gunwales you may be able to clamp a piece of 2x4 or etc against the inwale and use that flat surface as a guide help to align the initial edge of the pad. Provided the 2x4 and minicel edge have no contact cement the initial pad edge is easy to slide flush into place along the guide board

If that initial edge of the pad is cut true and even, then the rest of the pad should be fairly aligned and lay down straight within the painter’s tape boundaries. You might try leaving a ¼ inch perimeter gap if you are unsure of your aim with a big piece; the most important part is that there be contact cement on both hull and pad wherever the pad rests, so the edges are well adhered.

*Worst minicel job ever. One of my first rebuilds was the 1971 Old Town Sockeye, a tandem “European-style” decked canoe. The initial rebuild was done back to (crude) OEM factory outfitting, which included a giant slab of now-decayed foam as tandem seating. A massive, open cockpit sized slab of foam, fully 7 feet long, two feet wide and 3 inches thick.

I found a half bun of (white) 3 inch minicel someone was selling cheap, cut it to size and glued it in place.

Glue? Glue schmoo, I don’t know from contact cement. I have a fresh caulk tube of Hard As Nails construction adhesive in the shop. If I pick up another tube I should have enough to coat that slab of minicel.

It took most of three tubes; I had thought ahead and bought a third just in case. Solid as a rock, and I only added, what, a couple pounds of construction adhesive?

Solid as a rock until the second or third trip. I was a mile from home with the Sockeye on the van roof when I glanced I the rearview mirror to see a giant slab of white minicel flying in the air.

The Hard As Nails had not adhered well to the minicel. It was however stuck like a rock to the hull.

Well, not exactly a rock. More like a thousand needle sharp stalagmites of hardened adhesive poking up. It was the Iron Maiden of canoe seating. It took hours with an 80 grit belt sander and a respirator to grind most the stalagmites flush. The Hard As Nails part was true.

Now that was brilliant.

Dang it, now I want to do some more evolved contact cement work.
 
A better way is to let the two glued surfaces dry then cover with a layer of paper. Position the kneeling pad where you want and the slide the paper out while holding the pad in place.

Why didn't I think of that when I was doing mine? Similar to the trick I was taught for laying laminate on countertops when doing remodels. We glue the counter surface and the underside of the laminate. Lay dowels several inches apart on the counter surface after the glue dries. Lay laminate - (dry) glue side down - on top of that. Line everything up, then slide out the dowels end-wise while holding the laminate in place. Once you get a couple dowels out, the laminate has made contact and stays lined up. I bet the suggestion made here by Wyesdav would work the same.
 
Another trick to get the pad in exactly the right place can be to temporarily attach blocks to the hull where the margins of the pad will be, then drop the pad into place when it's ready. The edges of the pad have to fit into the area defined by the blocks... something like a jigsaw puzzle piece fitting into the right spot.
 
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