A few W/C materials questions

[dogbrain]

Hi All -

I'm wondering how much canvas I should order for my 16' Old Town, is 18' enough or should I get for more?

Looks like I way underestimated the number of tacks too, so I'll be ordering another pound. Do you generally use the old tack holes on existing planking or do you put them through solid wood? Even though I'm almost done replacing ribs I thought I'd ask this question anyway. I did the first few ribs hammering into existing holes then thought maybe that wouldn't hold as well as through solid planking, which is how I've done the rest. Do you fill the old nail holes before canvassing?

I'm going keel-less when I'm done. Are 4.5' stem bands enough or 6'?

Thanks, Mark

 

[Iskweo]

Hey Mark. We usually leave 2-3 feet on each end to grab so that looks like @ 20 feet for your boat.

I sometimes use the old holes if they dont look too big, otherwise I just put them into new spots. I put three tacks per plank and try to stick to a set pattern. We dont worry about filling the old holes before canvas but we do varnish the outside of the hull ( some people like to use oil) so maybe that helps hide them. Once the filler is on you shouldnt notice them anyway.

We have not put any keels back on, although we are doing it on the Y stern. If you do, I recommend a wider flat shoe keel style a la Chestnut. Get the six foot stem bands so you can trim to what length works.

Pictures??? We love pictures.

Christy

 

[Robin]

I agree with Christy on what she said, although I would measure from the end of the stem on the floor up around the curve to the top of the stem and then add how ever far you want to go down the deck (there might be old stem band holes in the deck you need to cover), to see if you need the longer stem band. (they have gotten expensive)

 

[dogbrain]

Thanks Christy and Robin. Of course, measure the stem, looks like I'll order the longer bands. Not really any pictures to show for an update on this old town since this summer. I'm really just getting back to work on it. I do only have a couple more ribs to replace, out of a total of 14. Things should go quickly then. Mark

 

[Iskweo]

We are getting back to working on boats also after a summer of summery things. Keel / transom / gunwales on the y stern and planking / sanding / canvas...hell just about everything ...yet on the Langford. Plus a customers stripper to repair.

 

[dogbrain]

I just counted and I'm actually up to replacing 17 ribs on this canoe. I did find a minor crack in another next to the stem that I may just leave as is, or do a backside repair. I broke a number of ribs while bending last week. I've mostly had trouble with the quarter sawn stock. I did end up using some lighter colored WRC for a couple ribs. It wasn't kiln dried and seemed to bend as easily as white cedar.

Lots of other canoe projects here too. My stripper solo canoe took one hell of a beating this year. I think I actually wore through the dynel skid plates, plus a number of deep gouges into the fiberglass. I was pretty much finished with repairs on the $50 mad river canoe until I lifted one of the inwales and SNAP. Turns out that the bow seat bolt hole was drilled right on top of a gunwale screw, which means there was almost no wood there. I can't believe I didn't break it before or that it wasn't already broken from use.

 

[dogbrain]

Oh, one more question Christy and Robin. Is this the right canvas for the job? I'm making a trip to Seattle and looks like I can save a bit, especially shipping.

http://www.seattlefabrics.com/36-48...ted-Canvas-750-to-2749-linear-yard_p_144.html

Thanks, Mark

 

[Robin]

Yes, it looks good, good price and no shipping. There are ways to treat canvas for mildew, as this canvas isn't treated, but your savings might be eaten up by the cost of the treatment. I use treated canvas, but I would not hesitate to use untreated canvas on my Chum which I use enough that the canvas needs replacing before it can rot anyway.

 

[Iskweo]

Yes that is the stuff. We use untreated all the time and just put deck sealer / end cut preservative on it. Try to get the clear stuff. Karin has taken to using a pump up weed sprayer to put it on once it is on the boat and stapled down. OUTSIDE is best as it really smells. You have to keep it sort of warm to dry it though so maybe a garage? We usually leave it about a week prior to filler.

To recap.....varnish or oil the finished hull outside, stretch the canvas and staple in place, including the stems. Spray with deck sealer...wait about a week. Then fill. Enjoy

You should ask Mihun about her newest filler experiment.

Christy

 

[dogbrain]

Thanks Robin and thanks Christy for anticipating my next question about the preservative.

Mark