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I totally agree with Brian on the gunwale thickness. On my first build I used 3/4”x3/4” for inners and outers, and it was way overkill, and certainly added quite a few pounds. My inners were cedar and outers were hickory. extremely durable but heavy! I certainly didn’t need 3/4” wide inwales...

Great progress! I wouldn’t worry about moving the strongback at this point but you might want to try an put it back in the same spot. This could be done by marking where the feet rest on your floor with tape.

Looks great! You have done a wonderful job of documenting your build, and it has been inspirational to follow along. i really like the contrast of the different species of wood. Very nicely done! I look forward to hearing how you like it on the water.

Titebond 3 here. 10:1 ratio. Last set was 3/8” thickness and they held together fine.

You might try full strength white vinegar in a spray bottle. I have used it to kill mold on various surfaces with great success.

Looks great! Awesome attention to detail! I have my eye on this design for "the next one" i build. Maybe I missed this but where are you hoping to be at in terms of a finished weight?

I’m going to go out on a limb here...what if you cut a small section of inner tube and stretch it around the ends of the yoke? Leaving the “tube” intact... maybe no glue necessary? i think I will try this for my own purposes.

I have more than a few pairs of scissors in my shop as well. My favorite ones are similar to these: Big handles and long cutting edges which are great for cutting the straightest of lines I do recall Alan posting a tip for cutting kevlar a while back, where he said he would give the blades...

For my first strip build, I purchased 4 1x8x16’ cedar boards graded D or better. I purchased them from menards via special order. Instead of paying the 75$ special delivery fee for a small order I opted to pick them up at will call directly from the distributors warehouse in St. Paul, MN. The...

What about some small circular magnets...

Is the peeling localized to your patched area? if it’s not localized to your patched area my guess is there is something wrong with your batch of helmsman.

If you have a miter saw and a carbide tooth blade I would go that route. I have cut some pretty thick aluminum this way. i would not use a new blade, an old one works just as well. A blade made for cross cutting wood is fine. I usually use a “seasoned” blade for this which I deem no longer good...

Here's what I did. four swivel casters with wheel locks that can be flipped up/down long bolts 1/4 20 bolts for a pivot point some star knobs, long 1/4 20 bolts and fender washers to secure when flipped down Untitled by Steven Fike, on Flickr Untitled by Steven Fike, on Flickr

I will post some pictures of the worst areas later, but as it will not be my canoe once it is finished I feel like the right thing to do is start over on the outside.....

Jim, Thanks again for the compliments! It is great to be able to paddle when I have an hour or 2 of free time, which is not very often, though I have made it out the last 2 weekends in a row. matching the strips certainly added time to the build but as you said I also fell like it was worth...

Jim, The forms are spaced at 16" intervals. The guy I bought it from told me he altered the design a bit for less sheer height and he moved a couple of the forms in the back end to create an asymmetrical shape in the hull. This is a very flat bottomed design, I didn't measure but would guess...

I guess the title is a bit misleading since I didn't actually find this in a barn, but in an elderly gentleman's garage where it had ben sitting since some time in 1981, which makes this hull older than me by about 2 years. Now here are a few pictures Untitled by Steven Fike, on Flickr...

Well....I got the solo out over last weekend. It's going to take a little while for me to get used to it. On that note I am glad I live in an area where there are so many options for places to go. The seat seems to be very secure with the dual lock though adjustment is probably best done while...

Holmes, I almost built my rails out of strips, but decided to go with carbon instead for a bit of an accent as well as weight. They ended up weighing about 12 ounces for each side. I used cardboard templates to achieve a rough fitment of my rails at first, then slowly scribed them into place...

Wow! That thing is shiny. Looks like you did a mighty fine job of varnishing.