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You can do it that way - I've done it before - but you generally don't need that many points. @Alan Gage 's plans will have been created in a program that mimics the behavior of real life splines. You'll need one at the shoulder point, one at centerline, and maybe two additional along the curve...

Welcome! Another recruit for the Dark Side! We may not always have cookies, but our hair is usually full of sawdust. One of the best things about building on this site is how many different types of experience are represented. You might get conflicting advice at times. Don't panic! Just ask...

If the plan-sizing saga continues on, would you consider hand-lofting? You only need a few points and a flexible spline. See this post for the last time I did this - I've recently started working on that set of forms again, and I'm very pleased with how precise and consistent the curves turned...

He is bead-and-coveing. It's just that he cut his strips from a variety of planks that had inconsistent thicknesses, so the raw strips have slightly different widths. He's using the cove pass to even that out, instead of running the original planks through the planer before cutting the strips.

The gunwales look like they fitted up nice once they were "persuaded". Very clean look. I'd be very tempted to do the custom end cap in walnut, but YMMV.

I've looked. It's not present. Even walking the woods - all of it died over a decade ago. There are maybe some sapling sized stuff, and even they are dead or dying. We've still got some firewood grade - this is stuff that was drying on the stump for ten years in an inaccessible location and...

Southwest Wisconsin. The Driftless. We've got wood - Hardwood. I can find you locally harvested Hard and Soft Maples, Cherry, Walnut, Hickory, Ash, (Tulip) Poplar, Smaller quantities of Black and Honey Locust, Oak (White in reasonable quantities, Red is a weed around here.) What I can't get are...

No fir! The stuff I'm working with is Southern Yellow Pine, untreated. I have run across references to fir shedding paint, but it was usually in the context of treated ply. (Treated lumber in general has issues with paint/finish adhesion) If you had issues with untreated doing the same, I would...

Just for clarity: does the server re-code the image and store it at max 950 pixels, or is that the maximum displayed size inserted inline? If I upload, say, at 1,500 pixels in the larger dimension, will users be able to see that full resolution if they click the image to the full-screen image...

Okay... I have feelings about this. Clever, but does he intend to use it seriously, or is this a "Can I build it?" gimmick? The only part that I can whole-heartedly endorse is having the backup paddle aboard, as well as a decently fitting PFD.

Kind of a potato day for the build today, so you get possibly too many photos of a scarf joint. When a scarf joint fits up properly, it practically disappears: When you miss spreading your clamping pressure correctly, less so: (This is the other side of the same joints.) I'm only mildly...

Nice looking build. Thanks for sharing! Especially thanks for showing your uniwale design. I'm going to keep it in mind with my own current build. I've always done scuppers in the past, including one with the 3/4" x 3/4" overbuild. I honestly think that those come from the fact that it's an...

I re-built my strongback and got to aligning my building forms: These turned out nice and true, and then I set up a rough splining to sanity-check and start figuring plank spacing. In parallel, I started building the core keel timber. I really went too slender on the previous attempt. The...

So, it's been over a year. I know I teased some of you over in the winter projects thread. I'm back to the basic hull shape that I attempted to build in this thread. Plenty of contemplation, as well as multiple internet searches, have lead me to the conclusion that plank stock suitable for...

The guys who use a router table to finish-width their strips are running the strip between the bit and the fence. Huge safety no-no in pretty much any other circumstance, but with cedar being so soft they get away with it.

Honestly, when cutting strips you don't need a perfectly straight edge. You need one with a smooth enough line that your cutting jig of choice (including Tablesaw fences if that's your poison) can give you a consistent thickness coming off the blade. I haven't used the circular saw technique...

Well... I might be related to the reason that I've been (re)building my strongback setup: (I tease, but I will share the real project once I have some things to share. It will have it's own thread, so I don't spam this one.) Very much a make-do build, salvaged from a previous strongback...

Still use the foldable ruler, and I'm young enough that they were mostly on the way out when I was a kid. Good, solid, high-contrast ruler with a defined end point is the best way I've found to set a cranky tablesaw fence. Also have one of the triangle scales, perhaps a little newer than those...

Finally got the T-handle on the bent paddle finished and in place. May get to the longer otter-tail somewhat soonish.

Looks nice! Now you just need to find some paddle-friendly weather. Not sure where you're at, but around here the water is kind of solid-ish ATM. I can tell I'm going to get a bit twitchy waiting for all the new paddling reports. Paddles can be fun. So many different tastes and opinions between...