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It is interesting how in this paragraph you literally judge and condemn the actions of an entire group of paddlers, even after most of that group has just posted the idea that each type has a place in various paddling conditions. I didn't read a single users account saying that their use of a...

Looking good, and I like using a long board, I think it gives a better fairing. Although once I past 100 grit, i figure the actual material removal and fairing is finished ... I use an ROS for the final portion

Other than the fact that a Kayak paddle is almost always unworkable in a canoe and that in the forum there seems to be a general misunderstanding that the terms Kayak and Canoe are interchangeable when referring to a double blade configuration, and they are not.

I would suggest that the aesthetic pleasure is derived not from the tool, but from the intrinsic act of making that tool do what you want ... application of the knowledge and skill that you have attained. While I agree that as the canoe gets wider, the double blade becomes less desirable, there...

Please, pretty please quit calling them kayak paddles .... there are kayak paddles AND canoe paddles, they are not the same, they are not used the same and they are not designed the same. Brian

When I first started canoeing, I took lessons with a single blade, learning the various strokes, purpose and times to execute. Most of my paddling was in a tandem, with a partner, so we took lessons on working together. One of the things that was covered was also fitting the paddle to the user...

As I understand it .... the kayak paddle uses a high angle entry into the water and the blade shape tends to have a high angle shoulder, think boxy, so when the blade enters the water it get the max area under quickly. The low angle paddle has a longer tapered shoulder that is about the same as...

The only issue/worry I would have is that useful vendor content could quickly become another advertising opportunity ... in some cases

"The single blade also makes it easier to take multiple strokes on one side, which is often necessary in cross winds." Allan, not sure if this is really the case .... it's pretty easy to skip strokes with either. I know in heavy water/wind (with a twin) I do that depending on conditions ...

You may be opening a can of worms with this topic, a lot of passionate people in this forum. some points: - a canoe double blade is not a kayak double blade - the blade shape is different - the blade area (size) is about half of a single blade - the length is substantially...

Doesn't help you now, as you are almost finished. If you keep your build area on the cooler side, say 65ish, then you may want to think about an express glue for the future. That would help a lot with the glue setup and eliminate your "waiting on the glue". I like Lepages Express 10 minute...

Gamma, I agree the epoxy setup would be delayed with temp, I will assume at those times you are specifying a slow hardener. Jim ... when I glass, I clean the shop and and prep the canoe ... TBH I cannot even imagine missing enough dust to actually lift the cloth, any bits left on the surface...

Now you are just teasing us Jim ... any time frame on that " better not to wait"? I don't plan on waiting the 72 hours to recoat, but moving from the ~3 hours recoat with most epoxies, to one that easily allows projects to sit overnight, that alone changes the entire epoxy application scenario...

Was going to chime in that it will likely be on the low side of 1.5 gallons (US) of mixed epoxy. I am just setting up for my next build and being lighter is always a consideration for me. When you wet out the glass on the boat you have to watch for starved areas where the wood below sucks up...

really nice grain on the wood, that takes a good eye

Just to be clear about the issue, is that a butane canister or a butane/propane canister? Also what were the ambient temps like?

Gamma, I did a bit of napkin math on weight projection for the materials (since you mentioned weights). The Larch hull in 3/16" strips should end up ~30 pounds (cedar ~18.5 FYI), glass/epoxy will be ~12 pounds, depending somewhat on application (estimating surface area at 52 square feet). So...

Rough lumber is just that, rough. It may or may not be uniform in width or thickness. If you get a board that has varying thickness along the length, then when you cut strips, the strip edge (or new width) will also vary .... you are not going to "uniform" that with the router. You need...

Point I was making Gamma, is that is you pass them through a large saw (i.e. tablesaw) with a longer fence, just trimming, say 1/16" ... it will smooth out a lot of the edge wave and maybe make what you trying to do a lot easier.

I read and reread the post describing the issue, please excuse me if I get it wrong (I do that at times) Since you are talking about initial thickness variations and then those become width variations, I assume you are using rough lumber that isn't planed and the width variations you mention...