Search results

It isn't just the Uniwales, they aren't magic, they are just something most folks don't do, so it's a different approach ... and lets face it, we are all a bit different here. You can achieve similar savings with pretty much all forms of gunnels, including scuppered, just don't overbuild for...

I extended the sheer point from the centre form to the ends, to keep the strip line parallel to the water, so yes, I will step the ends once the football is closed up. Brian

Like I say Jim, you always see the details ... I didn't have a pic of those, so those are from the last build. I found the painters tape still sticks a little, so I am using clear shiny tape this time. And those (sanding stick pics) are the infamous 7/8" I used on the last build ... the 5/8" on...

Stripping is moving along pretty well .... This is a pic of the last strip before I remove the Bow support piece and a closeup of the profile filed for the next strip The very next strip is the rollover point where I will be swapping from interlocking to long angle straight joints. You...

Allan pointed out to me last build that mixing strip widths is a valid method and I agree with that, if you are already at the "buckle" point and can take that strip off and then proceed with the narrower strips, that just seems like less work. Especially if you are going to try narrower strips...

I hate to suggest this, but I suspect if you try cutting a few strips in half and try those, the problem will disappear. Those look awfully wide and when you are curving like that, I think the bottom and top of the strips travel a different line (the top and bottom travel length is different)...

I think I mentioned this before as well, the 1/4" B&C is fine... to a point, then they start to kick out of the cove because it is shallow. I suspect it is really a matter of what the hull is doing, if it is fairly flat you will never see an issue. If you get twists and turns, the B&C can start...

You can never have too many

Great progress. Personally, I like to use more Jimmi Clamps .... my form spacings are ~`13.5" and I use 3 JCs between forms. In the picture, that is a pretty long space, at the end, for just 2 strip clamps IMO. Also as you get close to the turn to the bilge, the clamps aren't really usable in...

I saw Jim post those, I always wondered (FB isn't great for build threads) if they adjusted or just apply more and more pressure as the strip stack gets wider. That was one of the things I was trying to design into what I use, something that would allow strip holding without fiddling as I added...

Stripping Part 2a The strip hold down solutions, for stapleless stripper builds is literally a "Wild West" scenario with all sorts of solutions to similar problems. Wading through it all can be a bit of an exercise (read that as PITA). It may be a useful exercise to talk a little about some of...

Thanks Jim, on a side note about stemless, specifically the interlocking method. I figured out how a lot of it worked, but several searches also turned up posts you've made about some details (before I joined here), but nothing all in one place. Have you ever considered doing a primer for the...

Stripping Part 1 Since this is a staple less build, some of the clamping solutions need to get creative. Whenever there is a concave section, as it is here,it is never an easy day, find it is best to not short cut and just work out some decent supports. There is no question, building stapleless...

Did you check the Tabs along the bottom TheStripper? They are all there when I click the link

Yup, I mentioned that Station 1 correction value specifically under the Materials Required Section, didn't find that Station 0 correction, but I believe those corrections are likely dependent on the version of CC that you have. The struggle with that nomenclature, while historically...

Guess I have a simpler view of tariffs in general. There is only one entity that pays directly and that is the consumer (assuming normal practices of pass increases to the customer)... if they want the product, they have to pay. It follows that there is only one "winner" and that is the entity...

I am seeing a triangular support on the ends, with that nipple at the apex, in fact if you want to get around the back and forth weakness, maybe some more like a large version of a painters Pyramid That wouldn't use much material and should give solid end support.

Gamma, if you have a gap of 3/8" to build up, it may be less work just to remake/rework that form, you have a perfect alignment on the form before and after, so you really won't have much issue getting decent alignment IMO. Do your correction measurements, cut a piece of form material, glue it...

Rocker is Bow 2" Stern 1" The wind sticks are one way to make sure you are aligned longitudinally, I ended up using a level at both ends and shimming to alignment. Sticks may have been an easy check, but I am well into stripping at this point, so I will just add that to my list of build...

StrongBack Setup This isn't a new strongback and gets used for a lot of different things in the shop. So the first step for me is to remove any of the form attachment points that are still there and clean off (just an eraser, i use pencil)all of the drawn in mold locations. Once verified it is...