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Alan, that makes sense. I could do it on the football and the bow and stern strips.

Thanks Alan, Mem and Stripperguy, Alan your reason was why I was going to try it and I already bought a bunch of peel-ply:o. I've been using both a light belt sander and my ROS attached to my shop vac for a years. It's a huge help, but not better than not sanding. I guess I have a bunch...

I may be getting ahead of myself, but has anyone used peel-ply on the whole outside hull when doing the wet-out? I'm laying 6 oz. x 60" cloth on the whole canoe and a football of 6 oz. to the 4 " water line. I will also apply 4" and then 3" 6 oz. glass strips on the bow and stern. I'm trying...

I'd seen your technique but got too excited and had to strip! The good thing is that I was able to angle my stapler most of the time so I avoided embedding the staples most of the time. Mem, I'd forgotten about using wood filler thanks! Your student's Raven came out great!

I also got some fairing done on the hull. I had a couple of places where the glue joint wasn't tight so a little wood glue and sanding dust held in place with tape firmed things up nicely. The light strip the about the 4" waterline is starting to show better now that the strips are getting...

Rick, thanks again for reminding me about cruiser's thread on shaping the outer stems. I am SO glad I made the stems out of cedar! It was so easy to shape. I used scrap cedar strips to make dowels to fill the screw holes from glueing the outer stems on. I guess I got so excited hogging...

That is phenomenal work Rick! I think you got the ball on the head by adding the contour on the front and decreasing the depth of Gil's seat plans by 3 inches. This supports the dimensions I'm going use on my solo.

Thanks Rick! I'll check it out.

While the glue was drying, I started to work the stern. This concerned me because I kind of screwed it up on my Redbird years ago. The outer stems sticking out really do make the Redbird track like a train though. :rolleyes: I'm slowly cutting the dado for keel portion of the outer stem but...

After school today I had a chance to finish fitting and gluing the last two strips. You can clearly see the gap (both sides have them so I guess I stripped the hull symmetrically):cool:

That's my take on it too Alan. Thanks.

Here's more progress. Filing in the bow and stern above the waterline worked very well especially with my short strips. I've I started s stripping below the waterline I had to rip my 1.25" wide strips in half. This allows me to follow the twists in 3 directions. I decided to strip the...

I thought I had posted some images of stripping. Doing the tumblehome knuckle was very difficult because it's so different from anything I'd built before. I wanted to make an accent strip at about the 4" waterline. I cut some narrow strips in the lightest cedar I had. I realized I'd...

This is brilliant, if there are not too many portages.

Very true Jim, I've already started going back to glue in tiny strips where there are gaps from imperfections. Once the hull is in the water I'm going to worry. That's partly why I'm stapling my strips instead of going stapleless. Also I'm rather impatient.

Thanks Roy, using the laser level greatly reduced my set up time. I didn't re- measure the height of the shade strips but they seem level. I'm well below the 4" waterline and my strips are all pretty even.

Those are nice flags!

Welcome Dan, I grew up 20 minutes from GR but transplanted to Maine 32 years ago. Nice videos.

great article, funny comments!

Nice steamed gunwales. I'm glad that you don't have to replace any ribs!