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As I understand it .... the kayak paddle uses a high angle entry into the water and the blade shape tends to have a high angle shoulder, think boxy, so when the blade enters the water it get the max area under quickly. The low angle paddle has a longer tapered shoulder that is about the same as...

The only issue/worry I would have is that useful vendor content could quickly become another advertising opportunity ... in some cases

"The single blade also makes it easier to take multiple strokes on one side, which is often necessary in cross winds." Allan, not sure if this is really the case .... it's pretty easy to skip strokes with either. I know in heavy water/wind (with a twin) I do that depending on conditions ...

You may be opening a can of worms with this topic, a lot of passionate people in this forum. some points: - a canoe double blade is not a kayak double blade - the blade shape is different - the blade area (size) is about half of a single blade - the length is substantially...

Doesn't help you now, as you are almost finished. If you keep your build area on the cooler side, say 65ish, then you may want to think about an express glue for the future. That would help a lot with the glue setup and eliminate your "waiting on the glue". I like Lepages Express 10 minute...

Gamma, I agree the epoxy setup would be delayed with temp, I will assume at those times you are specifying a slow hardener. Jim ... when I glass, I clean the shop and and prep the canoe ... TBH I cannot even imagine missing enough dust to actually lift the cloth, any bits left on the surface...

Now you are just teasing us Jim ... any time frame on that " better not to wait"? I don't plan on waiting the 72 hours to recoat, but moving from the ~3 hours recoat with most epoxies, to one that easily allows projects to sit overnight, that alone changes the entire epoxy application scenario...

Was going to chime in that it will likely be on the low side of 1.5 gallons (US) of mixed epoxy. I am just setting up for my next build and being lighter is always a consideration for me. When you wet out the glass on the boat you have to watch for starved areas where the wood below sucks up...

really nice grain on the wood, that takes a good eye

Just to be clear about the issue, is that a butane canister or a butane/propane canister? Also what were the ambient temps like?

Gamma, I did a bit of napkin math on weight projection for the materials (since you mentioned weights). The Larch hull in 3/16" strips should end up ~30 pounds (cedar ~18.5 FYI), glass/epoxy will be ~12 pounds, depending somewhat on application (estimating surface area at 52 square feet). So...

Rough lumber is just that, rough. It may or may not be uniform in width or thickness. If you get a board that has varying thickness along the length, then when you cut strips, the strip edge (or new width) will also vary .... you are not going to "uniform" that with the router. You need...

Point I was making Gamma, is that is you pass them through a large saw (i.e. tablesaw) with a longer fence, just trimming, say 1/16" ... it will smooth out a lot of the edge wave and maybe make what you trying to do a lot easier.

I read and reread the post describing the issue, please excuse me if I get it wrong (I do that at times) Since you are talking about initial thickness variations and then those become width variations, I assume you are using rough lumber that isn't planed and the width variations you mention...

Concur with Gamma, the pics look like an Ottertail and a Beavertail

If you are doing strips for canoe building, then you have the strong back already, that means no infeed/outfeed tables, no double length work area .... if you compare the cost of making your own strips for just 1 canoe, you can likely buy a saw with the difference. I have no idea of the Festool...

Question on the order of the layers, I thought FG had better abrasion resistance than CF, why put the FG on the inside? I know with CF canoe hulls, they will add a light FG as on outside layer for abrasion protection ... at least that is my understanding. Curious, as I might actually try some...

I got the Helionox Sunset chair and made a down cozy for colder weather ... I like it because the feet can't sink into the ground

I have been building my own so long that I was shocked at the cost and rental fees TBH. I like the Keywadin series enough, that took the lines off a K pack 14 and have built a 15' version, with a 17' imminent ..... I wish you luck on your hunt

The KeeWadin series are a great performance line IMO ... the 14' Pack is very light and paddles well, I find it a bit too small for my gear for a week out in the bush. The 15 solo is about perfect for my uses, several folks in my group use them, love.