repair of thermformed endcaps

so the endcap is cracked. (not this one that is ok). some small pieces are gone ,
whos has some goord ideas of repairing them. getting new ones will be not an option

Did you think about using Kydex to make a new one? I don’t know what thicknesses it come in but many knife makers use it to thermoform sheaths.
Jim

Devcon Plastic Welder is an inexpensive, high-strength option. I have had very good luck with it in several use cases.

For even more strength, span the crack with plastic reinforcing rod before bonding.

You can often find new ones.

Ski shops sell a product called P-tex. It's used to repair nicks and ding in skis. It's a plastic stick, 1/4"+- in diameter. You heat the end of it with a lighter until it melts. You can drip it on to the cracked/broken area or heat it until soft and "mush" it in. It comes in various colors, including black. It's easy to final form with sandpaper, a sharp knife, chisel, file etc. I've used it for various repairs, including end caps.

End caps are available for many brands.
What brand of canoe are you working on ?
Evan if you can't find the exact replacement, you can modify them with a heat gun.

Jim

It is a bell . And me being in europe does make shipping expensive/ a haslse with custom duties.
Thanks marc. And trying. I will look into those repair options

way back when (pre-google), canoe parts were impossible to find, so we'd often take a "negative" fiberglass mold from the good cap, then use one of those heavy, thick, flat ABS fender flares, cut it roughly to size, and use a heat gun and piece of rounded dowel to soften and force it into the mold- if the plastic was soft enough, and the mold accurate enough, it would even pick up the patterning or pebbling from the original cap, and the softened plastic would leave bumps where any holes had to be drilled, just take your time and be careful with the heat- too much softens the resin in the mold, causing it to deform or melt, and too little can lead to stress in the pvc and cause cracking, slow and easy, and a good long cool-off in the mold (I waited overnight) has the best results...