Thoughts on Grasse River/GRB Newman Classic?

I had the same problem as your friend with his Blackwater. I couldn't keep the Shadow straight. I am not a bad paddler (finished the 90-miler a couple of times) but I think my technique was a problem with the Shadow. The other possibility is I don't weigh enough to get the Shadow in the water (that is a guess). Regardless, I didn't have this problem with other canoes I have owned (or own) ...Magic, XL Classic, Hemlock Kestrel. I have heard great things about the Blackwater, and now they make a shorter version. But, given my history with canoes i would have to try it and that is difficult. I have paddled both the Rapidfire and the Cruiser (there is a Swift dealer near me) and I like both very much. So, if I can get either one used I will jump on it.

Well, I picked up my GRB Newman Classic canoe a couple of weeks ago and have taken it out four times so far. It rained most of last week so I didn't get out much. I was getting used to the canoe the first couple of times but added seat risers, padding, and foot brace loops and yesterday and today I got out for 6+ mile paddles. I'm still learning the canoe's capabilities (well, learning what my weaknesses are with this capable boat) and I'm liking its potential, especially in today's 10 - 20 mph wind and small white caps. (There was just over a mile of fetch.) When heading into the wind the flared bow section helped ride over more than a few waves and when headed down wind the canoe has a fairly predictable "surfing" action, though you do have to pay attention. For such a fast touring canoe it felt pretty comfortable in today's conditions and I think once I get more familiar with the canoe I'll be OK with taking it out in even rougher water, though fighting the wind takes the fun out of it. : )

I tracked my route with a Garmin GPS today and below is the result. The wind was blowing from the west/southwest so you can see how it affected my progress, with the fastest speeds along the somewhat protected shorelines. (I wasn't trying to go all out but kept a decent pace.) I also slowed down while broadside to the waves and "surfing" because I'm still a bit tentative in this canoe. But I think I can get faster overall speeds once I'm more comfortable in the boat and certainly on a calmer day. This canoe should be able to really cover some water on a trip. I'm hoping to get out for a quick overnight test paddle with this canoe in October.

Oops. Photo moved to previous post.

Went back up to Chittenden Reservoir this afternoon to give the new Classic a good test paddle with mild wind. A breeze from the south rippled the surface and created small waves but no white caps this time so I didn't have to slow down much when broadside to the waves and I wasn't fighting a gusty headwind. You can clearly see where I had to slow down to get through a rocky narrow and where I stopped for a quick snack and drink of water. I'd say overall, at least a mile/hour faster this trip. Haven't cleaned up the GPS data to get an accurate average speed but my estimate is between 4.5 and 5.0 miles per hour. I really like this canoe. It's fast, predictable, and efficient. When at speed it doesn't feel like it's wearing you down. Haven't taken it out for an overnight trip yet but it seems like it'll be a great tripping canoe if you pack like a backpacker.

That GRB classic definitely looks fast. Thanks for sharing your experience with the sweet new boat. I can only hope to get a chance at any of those mentioned in this thread.

I have a question as an aside...

tketcham said:

added seat risers, padding, and foot brace loops

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Will you give some details about those loops?

The foot brace loops are something I read about in "Canoe Racing" by Peter Heed and Dick Mansfield; 1992. I've seen similar straps set up in marathon canoes. I tried them many, many years ago and didn't like them but thought I'd give it another try. Now I like the foot straps a lot because they provide extra leverage when working with waves. Sort of like thigh straps in a white water canoe.

Here's my version and the set up shown in "Canoe Racing". I still need to adjust them so the straps are angled upward a bit more.




And while I'm at it, here are the seat modifications, including padding, 1" rear risers, 0.5" front risers, and a spring clip for seat adjustment. I prefer some forward tilt to the seat and a little more seat height; it comes with 1/4" risers. YMMV.

tketcham said:

The foot brace loops are something I read about in "Canoe Racing" by Peter Heed and Dick Mansfield; 1992. I've seen similar straps set up in marathon canoes. I tried them many, many years ago and didn't like them but thought I'd give it another try. Now I like the foot straps a lot because they provide extra leverage when working with waves. Sort of like thigh straps in a white water canoe.

Here's my version and the set up shown in "Canoe Racing". I still need to adjust them so the straps are angled upward a bit more.

View attachment 150426View attachment 150427


And while I'm at it, here are the seat modifications, including padding, 1" rear risers, 0.5" front risers, and a spring clip for seat adjustment. I prefer some forward tilt to the seat and a little more seat height; it comes with 1/4" risers. YMMV.

View attachment 150428

Click to expand...

Thanks! I never thought of doing that with a foot bar, but I can imagine how it would be helpful sometimes. And minimal added weight. I'll keep that trick in mind for the Solitude.

tketcham said:

I like the foot straps a lot because they provide extra leverage when working with waves. Sort of like thigh straps in a white water canoe.

Click to expand...

So, just to be clear, they allow you to pull back on the foot bar?

sailsman63 said:

So, just to be clear, they allow you to pull back on the foot bar?

Click to expand...

Yup. I mix it up between pushing into the bar or pulling away from the bar to help balance/heel the canoe depending on what's going on. It's handy keeping the hull heeled away from the waves when broadside and when you're wanting to turn. One thing I've changed is that I had learned that you push against the bar on the stroke side to enforce the pull on the blade, kind of/sort of like rowers but with only the onside leg. It does work but I started pulling on the same side as the paddle stroke and pushing on the opposite (off) side and found it helps in keeping the canoe subtly heeled away from the paddle side and subtly counters the yaw of the stroke. I just alternate between 'hits'. It was new to me but seems to work.

I've moved several posts about what leg to push off with and the effect of heeling on forward velocity to a new, separate thread because they have become tangential to the discussion of the GRB Newman Classic canoe and because they are interesting enough to warrant their own thread.