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Quiet Blade Shape

Black_Fly

Black_Fly

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I was out paddling some still water at sunrise. Bass boats were here and there, and I tried to pass without disturbing the water, no noise. It became a game, getting as close as I could before the fisherman noticed me. My blade is a bent shaft ZRE WW, not real quiet, no matter how careful with entry or exit.

Do you have a preferred blade shape for quiet time paddling, putting the sneak on critters?
IMG_7461.jpeg
 
Good choice, but the Indian (or box) stroke can only be accomplished very awkwardly with a bent paddle. It will not be a complete Indian stroke, whiich when properly done, reverses the power face and the back face on each recovery by a palm roll of the grip as the blade is sliced foward in the recovery while the shaft is being held vertical. Can't reverse the face with a bent shaft to progress to the next bent blade stroke.
 
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Alan Gage said:
I've always thought my zavs were quite quiet. The blade should be quickly, and fully, buried before power is applied.
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For regular power strokes, be sure to match the entry catch with the relative rearward velocity of the water for a smooth noise-less and cavitation-less entry that does not drag air down with it. At the end of the stroke, unless doing the Indian or box stroke, slice the exit straight out in the direction the blade is angled without lifting water, either straight up, or to the side, depending on how you end the stroke with a J if needed, or otherwise.
 
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My ash beaver tail with a guide stroke is real quiet, usually can only hear water dripping just before the catch. Ray special with box stoke is silent … have snuck up on moose and deer with it. Sorry, these are straight shafts.
 
Black_Fly said:
Do you have a preferred blade shape for quiet time paddling
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PaddlingPitt said:
Have you tried the Indian Stroke?
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yknpdlr said:
the Indian (or box) stroke can only be accomplished very awkwardly with a bent paddle.
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Bob B. said:
My ash beaver tail with a guide stroke is real quiet, usually can only hear water dripping just before the catch. Ray special with box stoke is silent
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A full in-water return such as the palm-rolled box or Indian stroke, in which the paddle is never lifted into the air, would be quiet with any shape paddle blade. Yes, the stroke would be more awkward with a bent shaft because every other stroke would be with the back face, but it could be done, especially at the low paddling velocity used to sneak up on subjects. A straight paddle, however, is a much better candidate.

Other blade characteristics that can affect smooth and silent in-water returns are a low profile dihedral (not the proud cylindrical shaft dihedral on some cheap plastic paddles), and a thin edge for slicing. Tangentially, I'll be posting soon the results of slice tests I've done with several different blade shapes, the results of which were a bit counterintuitive.
 
^This was how I tuned the paddles I made. Take it out, Indian stroke around a little cove or something, and watch how the water moved around the paddle edge while I listened to it. Then take it back to the shop and spokeshave or carve it until it was better.

Provided a decent paddle, the best way I've found to quiet a paddle stroke is to slow it down. Let your shoulders get the stroke ingrained in muscle memory, and then speed it back up.
 
Be interested in learning what hunters prefer.
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Sorry Tony, maybe we can get back to that but I'm curious:

I've never paddled with a bent shaft and I rarely use an in-water recovery. I typically j-stroke and palm roll nearly every stroke. Is there some reason why one couldn't learn to reverse the palm roll 1/2 way thru the return and, thereby, keep the bent shaft blade in the correct orientation for the subsequent power stroke?

I'm sure it would require some conscious effort initially but should seem second nature once you're used to doing it. Am I missing something?

PS: I usually paddle with Beavertails but I think the Ottertail that I made may be just a bit quieter because the tip is more narrow.
 
Bob B. said:
My ash beaver tail with a guide stroke is real quiet, usually can only hear water dripping just before the catch. Ray special with box stoke is silent … have snuck up on moose and deer with it. Sorry, these are straight shafts.
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I had a beavertail that DID seem easy to quiet back in my tandem days. Not great on shallow streams and marshy areas, however.
 
My quietest stroke is doing in water recoveries with either my Kettlewell modified otter or the ottertail I carved, which has an even longer blade. But I'm finding that I can be pretty quiet with my Zavs and my BB Viper, just by doing as @yknpdlr suggests.
 
I haven't noticed much difference between a beaver tail and an otter tail as far as being quiet. I think a thin blade edge is important. If you are doing underwater recoveries, the blade shouldn't make any difference in noise level, but you will want one that slices through the water better.
When I'm doing underwater recoveries and trying to be quiet most of the sound is the squeakiness from my hand on the rotating shaft.

When you're sneaking up on fishermen try this to add to the fun. When you're are as close as you think you can get, in a very loud voice holler out "How they biting?"
 
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A blade that tapers to a very thin edge all around the blade is important for quiet and in-water recovery. We've all seen such as the Feather brand big box store clunky paddles and their ilk that go for ~$20. Thick rounded edges, Might as well use a 2x4. It will drag down air on the catch and create cavitation during the entire stroke. During reverse in-water recovery the bulbous edge will create a lot of resistance and suck air down with it. When I teach canoeing to newbies who may have one of those, I may let them use one of my older good paddles, if they promise to treat it well when near land or water bottom. A finely finished paddle will cost some fair cash, but it slices in easily and will easily slice in-water reverse recovery, whether doing an Indian stroke, its variations, as well as a very nice pleasant Canadian control stroke for many miles.
 
lowangle al said:
I haven't noticed much difference between a beaver tail and an otter tail as far as being quiet. I think a thin blade edge is important. If you are doing underwater recoveries, the blade shouldn't make any difference in noise level, but you will want one that slices through the water better.
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As I recall, Mike at Badger paddles claims that a narrower tip is more likely to have a quiet entry into the water, assuming an out of water recovery. I believe the racers among you can get a smooth and silent entry with a flat-bottomed Sugar Island blade, but I'd expect it take less effort/precision to enter the water smoothly and silently the narrower the tip of the blade is, so an ottertail, or Ray Special, or Badger Feather and the like might be better, though with a longer blade you're also more likely to inadvertently catch the tip on the surface during recovery.

Completely agree about blade edge for underwater recovery. My Tremolo paddles have almost a knife-edge, barely even rounded. Boy do they slice a return smoothly! (But they're more susceptible to chipping.)
 
Tsuga8 said:
As I recall, Mike at Badger paddles claims that a narrower tip is more likely to have a quiet entry into the water, assuming an out of water recovery.
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This is probably true, and is something I considered but I would say I've had equally good results with both. When doing out of water recoveries, like mentioned above, going at the right speed eliminates a lot of noise.
 
Tsuga8 said:
My Tremolo paddles have almost a knife-edge, barely even rounded. Boy do they slice a return smoothly! (But they're more susceptible to chipping.)
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Caleb's Tremolo paddles (at least at one time with the several that I have) at the very thin tip were carefully thin sawed split and a spline was inserted and glued in place to prevent damage of splitting and chipping. I have no evidence of any damage on tip or edges after more than 20 years.
 
Alan Gage said:
I've always thought my zavs were quite quiet. The blade should be quickly, and fully, buried before power is applied.

Alan
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It’s possible my ZRE is too short. I always thought if I ever get another, I’d extend the handle by an inch or two. The NWS is wider than the magic. Maybe the blade’s not going deep enough.

I’ve not yet tried a wood paddle in the new canoe due to my hand problems, but will tomorrow.
 
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