Recent content by Cruiser

Just so I make sure we are both talking about the same thing SG ... I am only talking about ripping strips ... there are a whole variety of wood working operations that use a large variety of different blades ... so I am keeping this focused on strips for canoes, which means generally we are...

The 7.5" thin kerf are much thinner than the 10" thin kerf blades. I have both and use both. Typically you aren't cutting very thick material for strips, so putting the 7.5" blade on a 10" tool is common and saves wood. For "cross cutting" operations, the larger blade and more teeth is going to...

SG, the idea that a bandsaw saves wood needs to be quantified, with respect to your equipment IMO, if you are comparing to a standard 10" saw blade, it translates to quite a difference, but once you start going with something like a 7.5" thin kerf blade, those savings start shrinking. I have a...

adding a point Sailsman63 comment about blades, Skillsaw with a thin kerf blade would be the least waste IMO

I usually just let ppl do what they like, I comment on what I like to do ... but generally there are many ways to do stuff usually. In this case, I will interfere a bit ... all PVA glues (eg. TB III) have a chalk temperature, that is a point where the glue crystalizes instead of setting up. The...

The bulk of the strips I am using, on my current build, came from 3 x 8' white cedar boards I had on hand. Not wanting to face the 200 or so joints "on boat" assembly takes, I just skarfed them together to make a single board, long enough for full length strips. I skarf at 10:1, but my feeling...

I suspect you have some leftover glass, have you thought about just making a fiberglass endcap ... as a custom fit. Wooden plug, shrink or plastic wrap, cover with a couple layers fiberglass and trim. Either paint or go crazy and just tint the epoxy. Brian

I am still hopeful, have a few more ideas to deploy yet ...

So it's gunnel time in the shop, I had to go back and review the earlier posts on cutting the gunnels, to make sure I didn't miss anything. One of the things not covered yet is the current shape of the gunnels, the round over and chamfer have been added, so the profile now looks like this I...

Hi Gamma, did a post for lofting here https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/lofting-canoe-molds-from-canoecraft-tables.129829/ you might find something useful there Brian

Mason, you are the first person to mirror what I have always thought was the best way of getting in the canoe. So many folks seems to think putting feet in first is the only way to get into a canoe, I always figured that once your butt is in, then the rest is easy. I did a video when i launched...

Great report, thank you for the work preparing and sharing it

You may have missed the point of the overlaps ... it was to beef up that area, the one overlap at the seat was 14", but the other point was I believe it made fitting the ends a lot easier

Tryin' is spot on IMO. I initially bought a 250 cm for the first solo I built and after learning to use it, thought it was the best. Then I started making them ... moving through a 260 cm, better, then a 270 cm, better again. I figure for my ~6" frame, the current boat at 26.5 " at the gunnels...

One of the guys had that at our last August camp, it is near perfect... I tried very hard to locate one, but that was not to be ... there is nothing like it available today (that I could find)