Recent content by Cruiser

It's hard to get away from the idea that the wood isn't actually providing measurable strength to the boat, that all comes from the 2 layers of glass/epoxy sheath, once completed. If you are worried about hanging the seat, add a layer at the seat location or maybe take a walk on the dark side...

LOL, you are just trying to get me in the doghouse ... I paddle it with Single Straight, Double and Single Bent depending on the conditions and what I feel like, Options are a good thing IMO

Standard on my solo builds, link to that, in last build https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/light-weight-solo-tripper-build.105054/post-111878

S glass is quite transparent for our build purposes, if you buy the wrong weave it may be a little difficult to wet out .... but it is clear

I read an article about small rodents chewing on synthetic ropes and actually downing hanging canoes. So although I have a pulley system to get the canoe up, I use chain for the boat to sit on. For ridgelines I almost always go to "Zing It" , which is a dynema cord ... nothing stronger or...

In a typical build, I would suggest a couple of useful clamps. The spring clamps in the Jimmi and plain configuration ... sized for you build strips. These are useful for stripping and any gluing that will fit easily in the jaws of the ones you have. On the strongback when you attach "stuff" to...

I would dispute that a good clamping system wouldn't be just as effective as staples holding the strips to the form ... I would agree that it is also more work to do so. If you are waiting for glue to set while stripping, that is a personal choice of what glue you use, not a fault with the...

Thank you for taking the time to share the "making" information. I am curious about your layup and finish sequence: - after the first seal coat, why do a second coat instead of going straight to fiberglass installation? - I initially finished the grips with epoxy/varnish, but gravitated to an...

The precoat means you don't need to worry about the epoxy absorbing in any one area, so you can simply apply a lighter coat and not worry about starving the cloth. The sqeegeeing takes care of any excess, so runs really aren't/weren't a thing with the longer cure. The recoat regime with the...

If you are going to use (or do use) then using an epoxy that allows longer between coats is an eye opener. I swapped to System 3 Silver Tip epoxy this build. Seal coat in the morning, glass in the afternoon with long cure, fill coats next day... no sanding, no blush worries. The build looks...

The only thing you really know with a computer is that eventually it will fail, the real question is will it take the stuff that matters to you to it's grave when that happens. To me there are 2 types of material on a computer, stuff that matters to me and "everything else" ... the stuff that...

TPG ... it hasn't actually "turned out yet" . Around spring time I ran into a couple of issues that needed my time. It is sanded inside and almost ready for glassing, I am projecting to restart in about 5 days. Just finishing putting handles on some Damascus steel knife blanks for Christmas...

Just to clarify ... the tools required for a build are pretty basic and most folks have most of the items already available. The real things needed are materials and time, the materials should be in the range of $1000 - $1500 depending on how expensive your area is and how good a shopper you...

When posts are read, there is a high chance of not really getting the idea conveyed ... what we are thinking doesn't always make it clearly to the screen. Both methods (C&B, Flat Planed) will get the job done and will require a certain skill set to make that happen. I don't believe there is a...

I did do a lighter weight build thread, with newer folks in mind ... you may find something of interest here: https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/light-weight-solo-tripper-build.105054/ and my current (although somewhat behind schedule...