Recent content by Cruiser

You may have missed the point of the overlaps ... it was to beef up that area, the one overlap at the seat was 14", but the other point was I believe it made fitting the ends a lot easier

Tryin' is spot on IMO. I initially bought a 250 cm for the first solo I built and after learning to use it, thought it was the best. Then I started making them ... moving through a 260 cm, better, then a 270 cm, better again. I figure for my ~6" frame, the current boat at 26.5 " at the gunnels...

One of the guys had that at our last August camp, it is near perfect... I tried very hard to locate one, but that was not to be ... there is nothing like it available today (that I could find)

Time to get moving on the rest of this build ... left off with sanding the exterior to 120. Given all the curving, the hull cannot be simply lifted off the forms. The individual forms need to be released from the strong back and angled out. At this time I like to add markings for the form...

Very enjoyable, you write so well ... it almost comes to life

Totally surprised there hasn't been any hammocks posted ... I guess it needs to be remedied. This is my setup from '22 ... it has evolved some, but remains largely as shown This is the complete setup, it all packs into the blue gear bag left, red hidden bag (clothes) behind the chair with...

Only if you build them that way

I bought a double blade to try with the first canoe I built and the combo was literally a whole new experience. That boat was about 26.5" at the waterline and I bought a Gray Owl 250 cm Tempest. After a year I decided that it could be a bit longer and made a 260 cm, used that for a year, then...

Amen

If you look on the Werner site, there are two categories for Touring paddles (not including Kids) "High Angle" and "Low Angle" ... these are designed for the stroke you are going to use. There are fundamental differences in the blade shapes to optimize the paddle to the stroke ... they are not...

Pictures are really the best part, lets the reader actually see what is going on, sometimes words fall far short of reality.

Gamma, one thing to note about walnut ... it fades with exposure. Not a deal breaker, but it is something to keep in mind. I did up my Kipawa with cherry/walnut gunnels and stems ... the cherry darkens a lot on exposure, walnut lightens and all the contrast I had initially gets more muddy with...

I predict that the bare hull weight after sanding should be in the ball park of 18.5 pounds, standard 6 oz glass if you are careful, should be around 11.2 pounds, 4 oz glass will save a bit at 10 pounds. So ready for trim weight should be close to 28.5 pounds, the wood choice weight cost is ~4...

It's a rule Gamma, most boats end up taking about 72 standard strips .... 1/4" x 7/8" Now if you do use 1/4" strips at 16', that is .33 brdFt per strip and times 72 is about 24 brdFt that you will require, so theoretically you have to build 4 boats now. Waste not, Want not Brian

Glue will find it's way onto and into anything you use. If it's rubber, it peels right off, if it is cloth it makes a hard spot on the surface, if it's shock cord, it sticks and makes a hard spot, but when it stretches, most of it let's go. Additionally, when you use shock cord like I did, then...