Recent content by Cruiser

The precoat means you don't need to worry about the epoxy absorbing in any one area, so you can simply apply a lighter coat and not worry about starving the cloth. The sqeegeeing takes care of any excess, so runs really aren't/weren't a thing with the longer cure. The recoat regime with the...

If you are going to use (or do use) then using an epoxy that allows longer between coats is an eye opener. I swapped to System 3 Silver Tip epoxy this build. Seal coat in the morning, glass in the afternoon with long cure, fill coats next day... no sanding, no blush worries. The build looks...

The only thing you really know with a computer is that eventually it will fail, the real question is will it take the stuff that matters to you to it's grave when that happens. To me there are 2 types of material on a computer, stuff that matters to me and "everything else" ... the stuff that...

TPG ... it hasn't actually "turned out yet" . Around spring time I ran into a couple of issues that needed my time. It is sanded inside and almost ready for glassing, I am projecting to restart in about 5 days. Just finishing putting handles on some Damascus steel knife blanks for Christmas...

Just to clarify ... the tools required for a build are pretty basic and most folks have most of the items already available. The real things needed are materials and time, the materials should be in the range of $1000 - $1500 depending on how expensive your area is and how good a shopper you...

When posts are read, there is a high chance of not really getting the idea conveyed ... what we are thinking doesn't always make it clearly to the screen. Both methods (C&B, Flat Planed) will get the job done and will require a certain skill set to make that happen. I don't believe there is a...

I did do a lighter weight build thread, with newer folks in mind ... you may find something of interest here: https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/light-weight-solo-tripper-build.105054/ and my current (although somewhat behind schedule...

Dropped them a long time ago, when they first started all the nonsense. Google Photos is free and works well

Sourcing wood is the first hurdle in the build, gravitating to WRC is simply because it is the one most commonly referenced. Just realize that the wood itself is not structural, in the final product, in any meaningful way. It is simply a means to keep the fiberglass in the right orientation...

This is how I do mine : https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/building-some-new-wood-composite-paddles-for-2020.120222/post-120735

Everything here is spot on IMO, I will add a couple of points to ponder: 1) the 30 degrees mentioned is with the hammock loaded and at the head end. Setting up at 30 with no load will certainly not be 30 when you get in, likely closer to 35 ... so it is a good idea to get help with the...

Maybe consider 7/64", 1/8" is pretty beefy for those jobs IMO.

Can't really argue with the logic, you are likely correct ... however, I suspect it will make little actual difference to the build or final product. Brian

Gunnels are one of the biggest potential areas for packing on extra weight (I think I have said that in every build thread I have done), so I am in total agreement with this sentiment. Personally, I have settled at 5/16" x 5/8" for my solos and 3/8" x 3/4" for tandems ... granted you have to...

Pricey, but you can't go wrong with a Yeti IMO