It took me a while to even start writing this trip report... firstly, I don't like writing at all (I'd rather go paddling
!), and secondly, writing in English is much more difficult than in German, at least for me.
Prologue
Since my first canoe trip in Northern Ontario (1985 Albany River), I have been drawn to this region again and again. In 2017, I had the opportunity to take part in a two-week exploration trip south of Wabakimi Provincial Park as a participant in the Wabakimi Project. Two years later, I had an appointment with friends in Red Lake to travel through Woodland Caribou Provincial Park for five weeks. Various circumstances led to me being by myself during these five weeks. I really enjoyed this solo trip and it was clear to me: next time I'll go into the wilderness solo again. That it will be in Wabakimi was soon decided.
With the help of a friend who lived in Sioux Lookout, I planned a trip starting west of the park boundaries. As we all know, the pandemic has unfortunately prevented entry into Canada for two years. At the end of 2021, it became apparent that travel would be possible again. Soon I had arranged vacation with my employer and was looking forward to the planned tour.
Unfortunately, my friend in Sioux Lookout fell so seriously ill in the winter of 2021 that I could no longer seek his help. A new plan was needed.
Bruce Hyer of Wabakimi Outfitters in Armstrong proved helpful, as it turned out after a few contacts via email and on the phone. He made me a good offer for canoe rental and he would also help me plan the route. A first hurdle had been overcome.
A flight from Switzerland to Thunder Bay and back was soon booked. But how do I get from Thunder Bay to Armstrong? Renting a car would have cost me three times the price of the flight from Europe to Canada and back. That was just to drive a total of about 600 kilometers and leave the car unused in Armstrong for four weeks. Way too expensive! A ride by taxi or a charter flight would have cost about the same; that was not a real alternative either.
I described my problem in an internet forum (myccr.com) and was surprised to soon receive a helpful answer. Peter, who lives in Thunder Bay, kindly offered his help.
So at the beginning of March 2022 I was confident and was able to devote myself to putting together the equipment and packing.
Sunday, May 22 and Monday, May 23, 2022, trip to Thunder Bay
Because I had excess baggage, I was expected in Zurich Airport at least two hours before departure. This meant getting up in the middle of the night. My daughter drove me to the airport. During the drive, I received a message that the flight was delayed by at least two hours. At least I didn't have to worry about arriving at the airport on time. At check-in, I had to wait a while until Air Canada opened a counter. My large, heavy canoepacks and barrel made the friendly lady at the counter frown. She instructed me to repack my luggage, as otherwise one of the waterproof bags wouldn't have been accepted. Then it was a waiting game. Masks were mandatory in the airport, so I waited outside as long as possible to go through security later.The plane finally took off three and a half hours late. I was informed that I would likely miss my connecting flight.
The flight itself, apart from the obligation to wear a mask and a sweating, very talkative seat neighbor, went without any special features.
Shortly after landing in Toronto, I received a message that I probably would not be able to catch the connecting flight. It was already clear to me, but thanks for the info, I thought.
Due to the entry requirements in connection with the pandemic, I had to submit a lot of information about my state of health in advance. It was pointed out that long waiting times are to be expected when entering Canada. I prepared myself for a complex, viscous entry process. Far from it. After 20 minutes I was through immigration and customs. I've never experienced that before. Hope began to stir within me that I might still be able to catch my connecting flight.
I still missed the flight. It was early afternoon, the next flight to Thunder Bay would take place shortly after 7:00 p.m. So, the plan was to kill time at the airport.
Shortly after 6:00 p.m., the flight to Thunder Bay was cancelled. Air Canada's customer service informed me that I could take the first flight the next day. Unfortunately, due to technical problems, they couldn't issue a boarding pass. Therefore, I had to spend the night at the airport, as I couldn't simply go through security without a valid boarding pass. And I didn't feel like seeing the city anyway.
At least I received a $30 voucher to buy something to eat and drink. The voucher was redeemed at a bar for a few beers. I called Peter and informed him of the delay. I soon found a reasonably quiet spot to doze off. Unfortunately, it was only a short respite; the cleaning crew drove me away with their work. This continued all night: finding a place, setting up to doze off, being chased away, searching for a place again, and so on.
Early in the morning, I received my boarding pass. The flight to Thunder Bay was called, and I was informed that it would be delayed by about an hour. Finally, I was on the plane. Unfortunately, it was cloudy and rainy during the flight. I would have loved to see the Great Lakes, Lake Huron and Lake Superior, from the air. Due to the bad weather, the flight was somewhat bumpy at times, and the landing, in particular, shook everyone on board quite a bit.
Peter, nearly two meters tall and, as previously announced, wearing an orange shirt, was immediately recognized in the arrivals hall. After a warm welcome, he escorted me to the baggage claim. There, another problem arose: my canoe packs and the barrel hadn't yet arrived in Thunder Bay. Customer service informed me that their whereabouts were currently unknown. However, I was assured that they would be delivered to Peter's address that same day.
On the way to Peter's house, there was a stopover at the workshop of one of his friends. Lorne makes beautiful paddles. He made one for me to use. Just like that. Incredible! And very touching this helpfulness. We talked for a while about canoe trips, canoes, paddles and much more before saying goodbye.
Peter's wife also gave me a very warm welcome. She had prepared lunch, which we thoroughly enjoyed. Afterward, we visited another friend of Peter's. His house is situated in a sheltered bay right on the shore of Lake Superior, in a beautiful location with an unobstructed view across the bay. He worked as a guide for Bruce Hyer years ago and therefore knows Wabakimi quite well. His stories were very entertaining, and I found his helpful tips and hints very useful.
On the drive back, I definitely felt the effects of the lack of sleep. Meanwhile, the missing luggage had arrived at Peter's. I was relieved that everything was complete and undamaged. My hosts were delighted with the Swiss chocolate and cheese I had brought. I gladly accepted Peter's suggestion to lie down for a bit and fell asleep immediately.
A few hours later, Peter woke me up because dinner was ready. I had a hard time fully waking up. The food was delicious. Afterward, we discussed and planned the shopping for the next day. When my hosts went to bed, I was wide awake.
Jet lag
!
I unpacked my things, sorted them, checked them, and scattered them around the room, packed them again, unpacked, and so on. Eventually, I found some peace. As I drifted off to sleep, I realized the hospitality and helpfulness I had experienced throughout the day. I was very grateful for that.
Tuesday, May 24, 2022
Everyone in the house was up early. After breakfast, Peter and I went shopping. Thunder Bay is large and offers many shopping opportunities. I was glad that Peter drove me around and guided me to the right stores. Despite an intensive search, we unfortunately could not find any fuel for my Trangia burner. I needed it as an alternative to an open fire. Peter stepped in and lent me his Coleman gasoline stove.
I spent the afternoon packing food, packing and unpacking gear, and so on.
Packing, repacking...
A dinner of delicious steaks, potatoes, and salad was very welcome. We also had vanilla ice cream and blueberries that Peter had picked himself. A very successful day was drawing to a close. I didn't find peace until late in the evening, going through checklists, unpacking and repacking, wondering what I might have forgotten, and so on.
Wednesday, May 25, 2022
Everyone in the house was up early. After a hearty breakfast, we loaded my packs onto Peter's pickup truck. Around 9:00 a.m., we set off towards Armstrong. The drive, including a break, took about three hours. As a passenger, I had the opportunity to observe the boreal forest along the road. We saw many snowshoe hares, some bald eagles, turkey vultures, and the occasional Canada geese, as well as other birds. Peter said that bears and moose are usually seen on this stretch of highway, but we hadn't seen any.
We missed the turnoff to Wabakimi Outfitters, but after a short search, we found the right road. Krissie, Bruce's dog, greeted us loudly. She watched us attentively while we unloaded my heavy bags. At the lodge, Lindsey gave me a warm welcome. She told me that Bruce was out but would be back soon. I went to my room and left my luggage outside on the veranda.
Arriving in Armstrong. Peter, his truck, the lodge.
Peter, with all the stuff I brought
My dear helper Peter had even brought sandwiches, which we enjoyed on the porch in the sunshine. While we were eating, Bruce returned. We greeted each other and chatted briefly.
Peter said goodbye. He drove the long way back to Thunder Bay that same day.
Bruce helped me plan my route. Initially, I was a bit skeptical when he suggested taking the train into the park. I had previously experienced delays of nine and fourteen hours. However, since I had plenty of time, such a delay wouldn't have been so bad, especially as I could have spent the night on Bruce's property at the Allanwater Bridge. A route was determined quite quickly. I received the necessary maps and information. Bruce also took care of the permits for the Crown Land and the park.
Lindsey would be joining me on the train. She had a lot to do at Bruce's cabin in the outpost near the Allanwater Bridge. She had gotten the Via Rail tickets and arranged the canoe transport.She was also helping me update inReach. To my annoyance, I was supposed to leave a message every day.
The rented canoe looked promising. A Souris River Quetico 16, modified for a solo paddler. I particularly liked that this boat, actually a tandem canoe, only had one seat. This allowed for more flexible distribution of the packs.
It was relatively quiet at the lodge, so early in the season. Everyone sat down to dinner at one table. After the delicious meal and stimulating conversation, I got back to checking, organizing, and packing my things. Outside, a light rain began to fall. As I lay down to sleep, the rain intensified. Therefore, I was glad to be able to spend the night indoors.
Although I was quite excited, I fell asleep quickly.
More to come....
André
!), and secondly, writing in English is much more difficult than in German, at least for me.Prologue
Since my first canoe trip in Northern Ontario (1985 Albany River), I have been drawn to this region again and again. In 2017, I had the opportunity to take part in a two-week exploration trip south of Wabakimi Provincial Park as a participant in the Wabakimi Project. Two years later, I had an appointment with friends in Red Lake to travel through Woodland Caribou Provincial Park for five weeks. Various circumstances led to me being by myself during these five weeks. I really enjoyed this solo trip and it was clear to me: next time I'll go into the wilderness solo again. That it will be in Wabakimi was soon decided.
With the help of a friend who lived in Sioux Lookout, I planned a trip starting west of the park boundaries. As we all know, the pandemic has unfortunately prevented entry into Canada for two years. At the end of 2021, it became apparent that travel would be possible again. Soon I had arranged vacation with my employer and was looking forward to the planned tour.
Unfortunately, my friend in Sioux Lookout fell so seriously ill in the winter of 2021 that I could no longer seek his help. A new plan was needed.
Bruce Hyer of Wabakimi Outfitters in Armstrong proved helpful, as it turned out after a few contacts via email and on the phone. He made me a good offer for canoe rental and he would also help me plan the route. A first hurdle had been overcome.
A flight from Switzerland to Thunder Bay and back was soon booked. But how do I get from Thunder Bay to Armstrong? Renting a car would have cost me three times the price of the flight from Europe to Canada and back. That was just to drive a total of about 600 kilometers and leave the car unused in Armstrong for four weeks. Way too expensive! A ride by taxi or a charter flight would have cost about the same; that was not a real alternative either.
I described my problem in an internet forum (myccr.com) and was surprised to soon receive a helpful answer. Peter, who lives in Thunder Bay, kindly offered his help.
So at the beginning of March 2022 I was confident and was able to devote myself to putting together the equipment and packing.
Sunday, May 22 and Monday, May 23, 2022, trip to Thunder Bay
Because I had excess baggage, I was expected in Zurich Airport at least two hours before departure. This meant getting up in the middle of the night. My daughter drove me to the airport. During the drive, I received a message that the flight was delayed by at least two hours. At least I didn't have to worry about arriving at the airport on time. At check-in, I had to wait a while until Air Canada opened a counter. My large, heavy canoepacks and barrel made the friendly lady at the counter frown. She instructed me to repack my luggage, as otherwise one of the waterproof bags wouldn't have been accepted. Then it was a waiting game. Masks were mandatory in the airport, so I waited outside as long as possible to go through security later.The plane finally took off three and a half hours late. I was informed that I would likely miss my connecting flight.
The flight itself, apart from the obligation to wear a mask and a sweating, very talkative seat neighbor, went without any special features.
Shortly after landing in Toronto, I received a message that I probably would not be able to catch the connecting flight. It was already clear to me, but thanks for the info, I thought.
Due to the entry requirements in connection with the pandemic, I had to submit a lot of information about my state of health in advance. It was pointed out that long waiting times are to be expected when entering Canada. I prepared myself for a complex, viscous entry process. Far from it. After 20 minutes I was through immigration and customs. I've never experienced that before. Hope began to stir within me that I might still be able to catch my connecting flight.
I still missed the flight. It was early afternoon, the next flight to Thunder Bay would take place shortly after 7:00 p.m. So, the plan was to kill time at the airport.
Shortly after 6:00 p.m., the flight to Thunder Bay was cancelled. Air Canada's customer service informed me that I could take the first flight the next day. Unfortunately, due to technical problems, they couldn't issue a boarding pass. Therefore, I had to spend the night at the airport, as I couldn't simply go through security without a valid boarding pass. And I didn't feel like seeing the city anyway.
At least I received a $30 voucher to buy something to eat and drink. The voucher was redeemed at a bar for a few beers. I called Peter and informed him of the delay. I soon found a reasonably quiet spot to doze off. Unfortunately, it was only a short respite; the cleaning crew drove me away with their work. This continued all night: finding a place, setting up to doze off, being chased away, searching for a place again, and so on.
Early in the morning, I received my boarding pass. The flight to Thunder Bay was called, and I was informed that it would be delayed by about an hour. Finally, I was on the plane. Unfortunately, it was cloudy and rainy during the flight. I would have loved to see the Great Lakes, Lake Huron and Lake Superior, from the air. Due to the bad weather, the flight was somewhat bumpy at times, and the landing, in particular, shook everyone on board quite a bit.
Peter, nearly two meters tall and, as previously announced, wearing an orange shirt, was immediately recognized in the arrivals hall. After a warm welcome, he escorted me to the baggage claim. There, another problem arose: my canoe packs and the barrel hadn't yet arrived in Thunder Bay. Customer service informed me that their whereabouts were currently unknown. However, I was assured that they would be delivered to Peter's address that same day.
On the way to Peter's house, there was a stopover at the workshop of one of his friends. Lorne makes beautiful paddles. He made one for me to use. Just like that. Incredible! And very touching this helpfulness. We talked for a while about canoe trips, canoes, paddles and much more before saying goodbye.
Peter's wife also gave me a very warm welcome. She had prepared lunch, which we thoroughly enjoyed. Afterward, we visited another friend of Peter's. His house is situated in a sheltered bay right on the shore of Lake Superior, in a beautiful location with an unobstructed view across the bay. He worked as a guide for Bruce Hyer years ago and therefore knows Wabakimi quite well. His stories were very entertaining, and I found his helpful tips and hints very useful.
On the drive back, I definitely felt the effects of the lack of sleep. Meanwhile, the missing luggage had arrived at Peter's. I was relieved that everything was complete and undamaged. My hosts were delighted with the Swiss chocolate and cheese I had brought. I gladly accepted Peter's suggestion to lie down for a bit and fell asleep immediately.
A few hours later, Peter woke me up because dinner was ready. I had a hard time fully waking up. The food was delicious. Afterward, we discussed and planned the shopping for the next day. When my hosts went to bed, I was wide awake.
Jet lag
!I unpacked my things, sorted them, checked them, and scattered them around the room, packed them again, unpacked, and so on. Eventually, I found some peace. As I drifted off to sleep, I realized the hospitality and helpfulness I had experienced throughout the day. I was very grateful for that.
Tuesday, May 24, 2022
Everyone in the house was up early. After breakfast, Peter and I went shopping. Thunder Bay is large and offers many shopping opportunities. I was glad that Peter drove me around and guided me to the right stores. Despite an intensive search, we unfortunately could not find any fuel for my Trangia burner. I needed it as an alternative to an open fire. Peter stepped in and lent me his Coleman gasoline stove.
I spent the afternoon packing food, packing and unpacking gear, and so on.
Packing, repacking...
A dinner of delicious steaks, potatoes, and salad was very welcome. We also had vanilla ice cream and blueberries that Peter had picked himself. A very successful day was drawing to a close. I didn't find peace until late in the evening, going through checklists, unpacking and repacking, wondering what I might have forgotten, and so on.
Wednesday, May 25, 2022
Everyone in the house was up early. After a hearty breakfast, we loaded my packs onto Peter's pickup truck. Around 9:00 a.m., we set off towards Armstrong. The drive, including a break, took about three hours. As a passenger, I had the opportunity to observe the boreal forest along the road. We saw many snowshoe hares, some bald eagles, turkey vultures, and the occasional Canada geese, as well as other birds. Peter said that bears and moose are usually seen on this stretch of highway, but we hadn't seen any.
We missed the turnoff to Wabakimi Outfitters, but after a short search, we found the right road. Krissie, Bruce's dog, greeted us loudly. She watched us attentively while we unloaded my heavy bags. At the lodge, Lindsey gave me a warm welcome. She told me that Bruce was out but would be back soon. I went to my room and left my luggage outside on the veranda.
Arriving in Armstrong. Peter, his truck, the lodge.
Peter, with all the stuff I brought
My dear helper Peter had even brought sandwiches, which we enjoyed on the porch in the sunshine. While we were eating, Bruce returned. We greeted each other and chatted briefly.
Peter said goodbye. He drove the long way back to Thunder Bay that same day.
Bruce helped me plan my route. Initially, I was a bit skeptical when he suggested taking the train into the park. I had previously experienced delays of nine and fourteen hours. However, since I had plenty of time, such a delay wouldn't have been so bad, especially as I could have spent the night on Bruce's property at the Allanwater Bridge. A route was determined quite quickly. I received the necessary maps and information. Bruce also took care of the permits for the Crown Land and the park.
Lindsey would be joining me on the train. She had a lot to do at Bruce's cabin in the outpost near the Allanwater Bridge. She had gotten the Via Rail tickets and arranged the canoe transport.She was also helping me update inReach. To my annoyance, I was supposed to leave a message every day.
The rented canoe looked promising. A Souris River Quetico 16, modified for a solo paddler. I particularly liked that this boat, actually a tandem canoe, only had one seat. This allowed for more flexible distribution of the packs.
It was relatively quiet at the lodge, so early in the season. Everyone sat down to dinner at one table. After the delicious meal and stimulating conversation, I got back to checking, organizing, and packing my things. Outside, a light rain began to fall. As I lay down to sleep, the rain intensified. Therefore, I was glad to be able to spend the night indoors.
Although I was quite excited, I fell asleep quickly.
More to come....
André
), which I'd brought along especially for this occasion. With such a full belly, I felt a bit sleepy, so I took a nap in the tent.
