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New van, need rack

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My 06 Town and Country just went down the road and we replaced it with a 2016. It has all the bells and whistles that Mrs L wants. No roof rack though. So, I figured NBD, I'll throw one on it.

Any comments on Yakima's permanently installed rails? Advice, don't do this or that, do this or that.

This is what I was thinking about putting up there as I already have pad#1, towers, and bars
And a google photo of the plus nuts

Thanks

Jason


https://www.google.com/#q=yakima+plus+nuts&prmd=sinv&tbm=isch&imgrc=uaZuT1L5d8Hz0M:
 
I’ll bite.

Starting off by saying that I’ve never done such an installation. But if I’m reading this correctly it involves drilling holes in the roof of a brand new vehicle and installing receiver rails.

That would make me nervous as heck. Not just potential leakage. Do you have to take the headliner out to do the install? And then worse, put the headliner back in without getting it all wrinkled and saggy.

If the headliner stays in place are the any wires hidden away up there. DougD told me a story about adding a similar rack to an old Ford Bronco and drilling the very first hole through a bundle of wires. That was a old used Bronco, bought for $100. Gawd only know how many wires might be in the roof of a modern vehicle.

All of the Yakima and Thule stuff I have installed was well engineered, so it probably works as directed.

I do appreciate having some kind of rail or receiver that allows the feet and crossbar to be quickly and easily snapped into place, and removed when not needed.

But drilling holes in the roof of a brand new car? You are a braver man than I.
 
I feel the same way Mike does !

I'd want the holes I drilled to catch a brace or a support ! Vehicles aren't made with thick roofs of the 50s !

The best of luck !

Jim
 
I've drilled through a couple roofs to mount racks. It's true that for the most part they're very thin. I pulled the headliner so I could see where the braces and double/triple thick layers were. I bolted short pieces of galvanized angle iron (old bed frame) to the roof and attached 2x4s to those running front to back and cantilevered about 3' over the windshield (I have a small car and wanted more bar spread). Then 2x4 cross bars bolted on with corner brackets. Also cross bracing (EMT conduit) over the cantilevered section to keep it from pushing sideways. I had to use some flat slabs of aluminum (3/8"?) bolted to the angle iron so the 2x4s would clear the curved roof.

20150918_001 by Alan, on Flickr

I love my bolted on racks. Cheap and functional for all the world to see. But my car is an old piece of junk so it doesn't really matter. If I planned on keeping it for a long time it probably wouldn't bother me to drill holes in the roof and uglify a new vehicle. In a disturbed way I'd probably take some pride in it.

When a friend saw how I attached the rack to the roof of my car his jaw dropped and he said, "you know your car is pretty much worthless now, right?". I replied that I knew my car was worthless when another friend gave it to me for free after he drove through a small lake that formed in a parking lot, ingested water into the engine, and then left a large oil slick with pieces of the engine block scattered about.

I don't know anything about the Yakima setup. Do they give vehicle specific instructions about where to drill? Is it possible that by pulling up a rubber trim strip on top of the vehicle you could find holes meant to hold the factory rack, if so equipped?

Alan
 
Alan I believe you could lash on another canoe, flip it over and paddle the Bloodvein ! Well maybe the Des Moines ! Ha !

I bet Mike McCrea could design a system, so you could pivot the canoe down the side like a pontoon !

Love seeing a canoe longer than it's transport !!!

Sorry Jason for getting off topic !

Jim
 
Hahahaha, Alan, that looks alot like my canoe when it was strapped to the roof of my Aveo hatchback!


I am going with some rails from proline. Years ago I used their rails on my S10 extended cab roof. 3 self sealing sheet metal screws in each rail. The yakima landing pad will attatch to it like the old factory racks. It will look clean too. I figured that I can go find a T&C with OEM racks, measure the locations for the bolts and transfer that to my naked roof. Hopefully this will keep me in the stronger portion of the roof and away from any wiring harnesses! Which i hadn't even given a thought until M.McCrea told the Bronco story! That would be very bad. There are probably more wires in this new van than in my whole house.

As far as the rails go, I have confidence in them. On the S10, I once had the front of my 65lb, 16' long kayak tied to the proline rack and the stern was tied to a hitch extender in the up position. Drove from Brooklyn to Utica without a problem. I left the gas station in Utica to hit Rte 12 north, pulled out of the parking lot and dragged the extender on the slope. The extender came right out of the hitch! So the kayak was canter leavered off the front rack, nose of the kayak pulling up on the front bar, about 20" back the bow pushing down, with the all steel hitch extender hanging from the kayak and the screws didn't pull out, or leak. Only the front 20" or so of a 16' kayak was strapped down! I wish I could explain it better, but that was one heck of ab eye opener. I thought I had the hitch pin in. Turns out, dirt and rust plugged it up and when it came to a solid stop when mounting the extender, I thought I was in. The pin slid right in. Moral of the story, visually check to see that the pin isn't behind the extender but in the hole!

I'll be sure to get some pics!

Thanks for the advice!


Jason
 
Looking at the Yakima installation instructions it is not necessary to remove the headliner, just “be careful not to drill more than ¼ inch” into the roof. Not having to futz with removing and reinstalling the headliner is good news. Maybe.

And I expect that if folks using the Yakima rail system had inadvertently drilled through wiring harnesses in the roof there would be some hue and cry of caution. So good news there as well. Probably.

My primary concern would be the strength of the metal roof alone, securing the rails to thin sheet metal without knowing that I had positioned the holes to bolt through some structural brace or pillar, or had removed the headliner and added something to help spread the load.

I often have two canoes on a roof rack, and sometimes more. Even so I am less concerned about the stated weight limit of the rack than I am about how sturdily it will resist the sheer forces of a 16 foot canoe at highway speed, or in crosswinds, or in a sudden stop.

Having a bike, surfboard, skis or even a rocket box storage bin up there is one thing, having the mass of a big open canoe perched on the crossbars is another. Stick your hand out the window at 70 mph, then hold out an empty plastic cup. Yikes.

Still, if adding the Yakima rails is the only way to attach a convenient roof rack system to the van I’d probably cross my fingers, gather my courage and oh so carefully drill some holes in the roof.

Our truck, van and both of my son’s cars all have roof racks that will accommodate two canoes, which makes setting our own shuttles easy. It is also invaluable on group trips, where not being able to tote an extra boat is somewhere between unhelpful and shortsighted.

If you go the Yakima rail route and sometimes carry two canoes I would use crossbars wide enough to leave some air gap between the hulls.

This ()_() would be preferable to this ()(). I have driven into some hefty headwinds at highway speed with boats on the rack. At 70 mph + 30 mph headwinds there is a hurricane of 100 MPH wind being dammed up between two hulls, and a lot of lateral force pushing the boats apart.

Is the missus on board with the plan? When I came home in 2000 with a brand new Ford E-150 van and immediately drilled holes in the front bumper for bowline eye bolts there was some consternation.

How do you feel about pulling a small trailer?
 
And the S10 before the Aveo, no picture that extender falling out and the whole thing hanging by that little bit on the front. The kayak in this pic is the 139 loon from Old Town. I had the OT adventure xl 160 up there when it happened
 

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This one in the 78" flavor
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Yup. All of our vehicles have 78” bars except #1 son’s Corolla. The E-150 van actually has 8 foot Quick and Easy bars that extend to the edge of the side view mirrors. Four sets of Quick & Easy crossbars, positioned along 11 feet of roofline to accommodate four boats. Rain gutters, oh heck yeah.

If the bars don’t stick out past the side view mirrors I figure I’m at least adhering to the spirit of the law. And know that I am unlikely to clip them on anything while driving. To that end I know shuttle monster folks who have installed massive trailering side-view mirrors solely to provide the additional inches of vehicle girth and probable crossbar legality.

(We did have a friend pulled over for having 8 foot DIY crossbars on a compact car. The dang thing looked like a bad homecoming canoe-theme float, and the State Trooper had him dead to right)

Other than perhaps bonking your head on a crossbar positioned above the door I see no reason to use shorter bars. Think slit tennis balls stuck on the extended ends of the crossbars.

The Fit Guides for Yakima and Thule default to the shortest crossbars that will span the towers. Longer is better, especially if the crossbars are easy to put in place and removed from the receiver when not in boat toting use.

I do believe that the skinnier, closed-hull of a kayak is easier on windage stresses than an open canoe, and the MPG records on our various vehicles back that up.
 
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Most people up here use wide bars to... At least for to canoes side by side... on my Dodge Ram 2500 diesel, I can put 3 side by side.
 

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