• Happy Incorporation of Hudson's Bay Co. (1670) 🍁🦫🪓

CL find

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Old Town Nothern Light solo. It's pretty rough around the edges but it should clean up nice. Gotta sand down the patches, sand, recane, and raise the seat and replace the thwarts, then slap some new paint on it and I got me another tripper. 15ft 4in, and 52lbs, she's not light but I needed a summer project and the price was more than right. I'll get some better pics in the daylight.
 

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Good find, I always liked restoring those oldies and getting them back in shape. 52lbs is light in my world, keep us posted on the progress.
 
Very cool boat. I like solos around 15 feet or a bit more. I think you will enjoy the sliding seat too....slide it all the way back and you'll have plenty of room for naps. ;)
 
Got the seat off and sanded down the sliders, have to buy some stripper for the seat/yoke combo tomorrow. Waiting on Ed's Canoe to ship me two thwarts, two carry handles and some seat hardware, and recaning kit.
Man, there is really little to no info about this boat out there, I found a magazine ad and a few pics of one on a Bushcraft forum but that's it. Below are photos of the CL ad.
The previous owner lowered the seat with oak dowels, and when the thwart ends rotted away he put brackets on them to connect to good wood. When I got there the yellow spray paint had been covered over with burgundy spray paint. He epoxied a few gouges and glassed a crack in the bow but did not bother sending them down. I've already sanded down one spot but I'm gonna wait until I've cleaned the interior and installed the woodwork. Kinda wanna get it I. The water once before I sand/paint.
 

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JISH,

We are in the same boat (no pun intended). Two weeks ago, I had the opportunity to buy a 1964 Old Town Otca off CL. I need another canoe like a hole in the head but it was way too good of a deal to pass on it. It needs a little sanding and polyurethane on the gunwales, new caning, new yoke and pads, possibly a new coat of paint, and there is a little leak near the stern. I found a small area (3/16") of missing paint with canvas showing. I cemented that but haven't had a chance to try it out yet. If that isn't it, I suspect the culprit could be the keel.

The replacement of the caning in the seat was a 'treat'. I had watched the 'Wicker Lady' through Youtube University. She said that I would curse the previous installer if he used wood glue instead of hide or white glue, and I did. I manufactured a caning chisel out of an old screwdriver but it was no match. I ended up basically mortising the spline out with a 1/4" chisel and then had to get #9 spline to install the new cane. I didn't realize that there are so many sizes of spline.

Otherwise, the canoe is in amazing shape and quite a looker. Hopefully, I can complete the touch-ups soon and get to enjoy it.

Good luck with your restoration.
 
Based on measurements this boat has a lot in common with the Wenonah Wilderness, a boat I've always had my eye on.
 
Based on measurements this boat has a lot in common with the Wenonah Wilderness, a boat I've always had my eye on.

Funny, I thought the same thing when I saw the pics, but didn't bother to check the measurements. I love my Wilderness, but having a sliding seat like this would be a great addition.
 
Now that's a canoe care package, and it all came on the same day...
 

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Based on measurements this boat has a lot in common with the Wenonah Wilderness, a boat I've always had my eye on.

I owned a kevlar Northern Lights 15 and currently have a Wenonah Wilderness. Dimensionally they are similar, but the NL bottom is considerably more rounded than the (very) shallow arch of the Wilderness.
 
Two coats of stripper and the seat is ready for sanding, wood filler and varnish. Hopefully I'll get it done tomorrow.
 

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I owned a kevlar Northern Lights 15 and currently have a Wenonah Wilderness. Dimensionally they are similar, but the NL bottom is considerably more rounded than the (very) shallow arch of the Wilderness.

Do you have any pics of your Northern Light? All the ones I've seen have separate holes in the gunwales for the rear thwart and rear slider seat drops, but there's only one set of holes in mine. The bolt goes through the thwart, then the seat drop and slider rail. I need to find a longer bolt than the 6 inchers I ordered or shave the drops down an inch.
 
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Do you have any pics of your Northern Light? All the ones I've seen have separate holes in the gunwales for the rear thwart and rear slider seat drops, but there's only one set of holes in mine. The bolt goes through the thwart, then the seat drop and slider rail. I need to find a longer bolt than the 6 inchers I ordered or shave the drops down an inch.

That was a long time ago, like 35mm slide film days.

My NL15 had a stern thwart a few inches behind the drops for the slider, and a bow thwart in front of the drops for the front of the slider drops, just as shown on the Old Town catalog photo.

I did not care much for the sliding seat construction or position. Having the aluminum slider brackets grinding against the wooden slider rails was not kind to the rails, although the simple friction of metal bracket against wood rail kept the sliding seat locked in position.

The entire sliding seat/yoke combination seemed oddly positioned, perhaps more with an eye towards yoke balance than sliding seat trim efficacy. The canoe was balanced properly with the seat/yoke slide all the way forward, but I would have preferred to have more travel aft on the sliding seat.

One picayune complaint; I never got used to portaging the canoe stern first, as often as not walking down to the water with the canoe on my shoulders and inadvertently setting it in the water facing the opposite direction desired.

Even loading it on the roof racks from the rear of the van; stern forward just seems wrong.

If you cut down the drops to go under the thwart your seat will still be hung the same depth. Alternatively, and maybe better, cut down the stern thwart, drill new holes and install that thwart a few inches behind the drops for the slider rails.

I did not like having the stern thwart on the Wilderness positioned 3 inches behind the edge of the (fixed) seat frame and moved it back a couple inches. Having the stern thwart directly above the back edge of the seat with the slider would be even worse, preventing the seat from being functional if slid all the way back.

That seems a lot of complaints about a canoe I did well buying (trading) and selling. I saw a newspaper ad for 24 foot kevlar canoe $125. Thinking that was a typo and it was really a 14 footer I called. Nope, 24 feet long. I drove home like I stole it.

A Sawyer Saber. Completely useless to me, I was not racing then. I traded the Saber to a Texas Water Safari race team for the pristine Northern Lights, and later sold the NL for the stupidly low price of $500. The buyer drove away like he stole it.
 
I really can't believe I over thought the aft drops that badly, I'm literally laughing at myself right now...
 
I really can't believe I over thought the aft drops that badly, I'm literally laughing at myself right now...

I would be tempted to go with option B and move the stern thwart a few inches behind the sliding seat side rail drops, to provide the ability to slide the seat fully back without a thwart in my spine. Your Sit-Backer would eliminate that spinal torture, but you would still lose a couple inches of sternward travel with the slider.

One recollection of the Northern Lights 15 was that I wished the sliding seat position had more travel towards the stern. It had wayyyyyy more than enough forward travel, much of the slide distance was in front of center, probably to accommodate yoke balance.

Actually, being set in my ways with outfitting preferences, I would be tempted to remove that sliding seat and yoke assembly entirely and replace the seat with a fixed contour bench & truss drops at my proven location back of stern.

And replace the seat edge yoke with a strap yoke. With a 13 inch deep canoe having the yoke set well inside the hull did not leave a lot of room for my head and neck. Hmmm, ya know what? The seat in my Northern Lights was nowhere near as deeply hung as yours.

Looking at the photos of your NL I now realize that the original owner had shortened the seat drops by several inches. I do not believe the seat in my Northern Lights was dropped more than 3 inches; there was plenty of room under the seat from my size 12s and the NL was one of the solo canoes I swam from repeatedly from a sitting position.

Thanks for the photos, that explains it! When I first got the Northern Lights I discovered, after some trial and (lots of) error, that the seat frame was backwards. That did not occur to me at the time, that sort of seat arrangement was novel to me. I first tried paddling the NL facing the bow as usual, which left the wings of the yoke painfully digging into my thighs.

I tried it with the seat slid to the other end of the rails, so the wings of the yoke were behind me, and the trim was hilariously bow heavy before realizing that I needed to remove the seat and reverse it.

The canoe was so pristine that I blamed Old Town for installing the seat bass akwards, but it all makes sense now; the original owner had taken the seat out, shortened the drops and put the freaking seat in backwards.

In any case when you get it put back together I will be interested in your paddling impression of the Northern Lights. I sometimes wish I had kept mine and outfitted it to my seat and etc preferences.
 
Do you have any pics of your Northern Light? All the ones I've seen have separate holes in the gunwales for the rear thwart and rear slider seat drops, but there's only one set of holes in mine. The bolt goes through the thwart, then the seat drop and slider rail. I need to find a longer bolt than the 6 inchers I ordered or shave the drops down an inch.

If still in need, Swift sells 8" seat bolts, just give them a call.
 
If you have a FASTENAL store in your area, check with them for your seat drop hardware. That is where I go anymore.

Mike
 
Finished sanding and got stain on the seat and rails, the Ipswitch Pine from Minwax seemed the most natural looking to me, hopefully it blends in nicely with the new thwarts. I'm going to Spar varnish the seat and rails because it does seem likely that the aluminum slider brackets are going to beat the wood up.
 

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It was too humid for the first coat of varnish to dry on the seat and sliders, but the rest of the wood got cut and in today.
 

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Recaned the seat tonight. This was the part I was most worried about as I had never done it before, but I'm pleased with the result. It could be better, but it wasn't a failure. Gonna give it a day or two to dry and then the Northern Light will see the water again this weekend...
 

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Woodwork is finished! Those aluminum slider brackets are going to be heck on the rails, I'll probably have to sand and varnish them every season. I think it came out quite nice, and can't wait to get some paint on it. Now that it's all together I find myself debating leaving the hull until the hottest part of the year is over and painting in cooler conditions. Also I can hear the Adirondacks calling it home so I may need to plan a weekend up there very soon. Let me know what you think...
 

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