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I’m thinking I’ll just use the 8 oz S glass alone on the inside. It is high density which means less resin and good puncture resistance. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks for all the input.

I do not have a way of measuring its thickness. But it seemed like the foam was to blame as well. Right now, the hull is as rigid as any finished hull. That’s without the inside fabric. That’s why I’m thinking of skimping on the inside layup.

The basalt innegra and the glass are both 8 oz. so the exterior is a total of 16 oz.

Exterior layup went well. Layup is 1/2” h60 foam 8oz basalt innegra 8 oz s glass Epoxy weight for the exterior was 15 #. total weight currently is 45.5 #. I was really hoping to have this canoe come in under 75#, but now I’m getting nervous. My current plan is to put 8oz of basalt innegra on...

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I used divinycell H 60 1/2”. One problem I had was that the foam isn’t rigid enough to sand it to a perfect fairing. If a guy used 1/4”, that problem would be worse and I think I unmanigable.

Ok so on a cedar strip with tumble home, fabric pulling away isn’t a problem ?? That would be good news. Makes sense. I pulled the nails with pliers. It left dimples everywhere I had to fill with thickened epoxy. The outside layup is 8 oz of basalt innegra and 8 oz S glass with gel coat...

A dry run fitting. I stapled spruce strips under the hull about an inch. I will clamp the fabric to this. I made sure there is no concavity in the design so I’m hoping this will hold the fabric in the tumble home areas. Any thoughts ? Layup day is Friday!

Wow. It’s been a while. I got side tracked with spring. One problem with this construction method is that the foam is not stiff enough to get a perfect fairing. Foam in between stations gets depressed as you pass over it with the sander. So the foam at the stations gets sanded deeper than...

6” random orbital air with 40 grit for the rough sand. I’m going to borrow an air long board next week to fine tune it.

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This canoe will be a 23’ family touring C4. Foam is Divinicel 1/2”. Strips were cut with a table saw with a foam cutting blade. Some were cut at 2” and some at 1”. All strips were cut at 90 degrees. Foam was secured to the forms by a 23’guage finish nail. Cedar strips were tacked upto hold...

Sure.

I thought about it but only cause I know you love bead and cove

https://www.amazon.com/Bullet-Tools-.../dp/B00KM0RLUU thats the blade I used. I ripped a sheet in half then ran them through the table. as to width, I wouldn’t think using thinner than 1/2” would not work very well just because it wouldn’t be stiff enough to fair. layup: 8 oz basalt innegra...

Ok. Ok. Here’s a few! 1/2” divinicel. This one will need 2-3 sheets, but it’s a big canoe. I’d say a 16’ would take two sheets. I am tracking them on with a 23 gauge finish nailer. A lot of times it needs a cedar strip tacked onto the outside to hold it down. But that’s pretty quick. At...

Ok jury is in. Gorilla glue is definitely the good stuff. It foams to fill the little cracks. It sands just like foam. Any large gaps can be filled with spray foam. This build is going really fast. Other than the added cost of the foam ($180 per sheet) I really like using this method so far...

I’ve built a couple canoes from it. It’s really easy to work with. For a layup schedule I would treat it like Kevlar. For performance, I think it’s stronger than Kevlar.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-TITE-FOAM-Multi-Purpose-12-oz-Spray-Foam-Insulation/1000881630 Im gonna try this. It’s adhesive, denser, flexible, sand able, paintable(epoxy compatIble hopefully).