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I've found that some adhesives respond best to ethanol. Denatured alcohol or gel hand sanitizer. Don't waste your good hooch on this.

I've only done a shouldered tumblehome once, but mine had a concave curve. Glass adhered to the outside just fine. It was the inside that got finicky. Keep in mind: The exterior glass fibers are a major part of your structural strength. If you break them, you have a much weaker hull - or will...

I've also seen birds build nest right on top of the spikes. How much modification is possible with the carport? Permanent structure, or one of those prefab things? Classically, people would paint their porch ceilings a light sky blue to deter nesting. The theory is that it triggers the birds'...

Because the browser needs to fetch the post/editor window/whatever else you requested. Even hitting the like button will trigger a data transfer as the "likes" status is updated. That particular message is firefox's way of saying "Loading, please hang on a moment."

I don't doubt others will be along with more info and advice particularly for adhesion to Royalex, but on this specific question: Yes. This is how some entire hulls (cedar strip) work. I doubt a single layer inside and out will be anywhere as tough as the original Royalex, but for basic...

So I went and had a crazy three weeks. I've gotten some work done, but didn't have the bandwidth to post as I went. First thing that I actually completed is lining off for the actual planks. This took a couple of false starts, but this is the one that I'm going with: The biggest shift from...

Daww... But terminology is so fun! And it helps us communicate clearly! 🤓 (I am being slightly tongue-in-cheek here) Seriously, I had to look up "chine" for my own curiosity. While it is related to/derived from words that mean "backbone" or "spine", in boat-building and boat-describing...

I don't really have a current workout routine, which this thread has reminded me to consider. I've never really targeted paddling specifically. I figured that a decently well-rounded overall fitness would serve me better than specializing. That may also need a re-think. I really hard agree on...

Those look nice! I've done cedar/oak laminate beams before (seat rails and sliding mounts) and was (continue to be) well satisfied with their performance. Mine didn't turn out looking that good, but I didn't put in the effort, either.

Now those are fun! Not my style for a canoe, but I can see using that technique for other projects. I especially like how the pattern kind of flows through the roundover.

Looks like a nice paddle. I'm a little jelly. Some of the backwaters off of the Lower Wisconsin look kind of like that (W/different tree species) when the spring run is up. Right now, all my local water is kinda hard.

I haven't abandoned the build, just not a lot exciting to show. (Also still have my camera out of commission.) I've been playing with spiling the lines for the laps: The stem forms have that little lift block to give me something to link off to at the correct half-beam, as well as a point to...

I'd second walnut as a contrast wood, especially for anything under glass: It's fairly light for a hardwood, bends well in strip-thicknesses and is soft enough that it can be worked alongside the cedar without making the cleanup/outside sanding hideously painful. I've successfully embedded it in...

Dust from the NWC will definitely affect you more than most common midwest hardwoods per exposure, and the oils are a sensitizer on top of the dust/silica concerns. Dust-rated mask whenever you are generating sawdust. If you can do your bulk milling out of doors, you can probably reduce...

Alan is right about the tradeoff between "perfect" and "good enough". Don't let the former be the enemy of the later, but only you can decide where that line is for your build(s). I have done the "Scarf each strip as I go" method. Once. I had a little jig to sand the scarfs on a disk sander...

Strongback looks like it'll be solid. You may need to temporarily brace it level when screwing it together. The most time-urgent, since it might affect your wood shopping tomorrow: It might be un-intuitive, but you usually don't want vertical grain planks for your strip stock. (Assuming 1x...

You can do it that way - I've done it before - but you generally don't need that many points. @Alan Gage 's plans will have been created in a program that mimics the behavior of real life splines. You'll need one at the shoulder point, one at centerline, and maybe two additional along the curve...

Welcome! Another recruit for the Dark Side! We may not always have cookies, but our hair is usually full of sawdust. One of the best things about building on this site is how many different types of experience are represented. You might get conflicting advice at times. Don't panic! Just ask...

If the plan-sizing saga continues on, would you consider hand-lofting? You only need a few points and a flexible spline. See this post for the last time I did this - I've recently started working on that set of forms again, and I'm very pleased with how precise and consistent the curves turned...

He is bead-and-coveing. It's just that he cut his strips from a variety of planks that had inconsistent thicknesses, so the raw strips have slightly different widths. He's using the cove pass to even that out, instead of running the original planks through the planer before cutting the strips.