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The material that I use comes like overly large, flat ,shoelace. It's approx. 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick. In a future photo, I'll show it being applied (on another paddle that I'm currently working on).

These photos show the rough shaped blade with Dynel edging around the tip and lower portion of the blade. This paddle will be a shallow water special and likely will get banged around a bit. The Dynel edging is highly abrasion and impact resistant. I didn't show the Dynel being applied, prior to...

I'm not planning on showing more detailed photos of the jig. I've spent a great deal of time designing and refining it. Perhaps someone will come up with a better idea (other than CNC). As to a "reference surface" when flipping the blade. That was one of the early obstacles to overcome. I solved...

That's a great question(s). I'm never quite certain about the term "dihedral" as it pertains to paddle blades, as I would presume that almost all blades are "dihedral" unless each face is completely flat, i.e., the same thickness from edge to edge. Camber, on the other hand, refers to the...

Rough cutting one of the four facets of the blade. I'm using a proprietary router and sled jig, that I designed, for the purpose. The jig ensures that all four facets are identical; that the blade has matched camber on the front and back faces. A blade on which the camber is not perfectly...

After the final glue up and template sanding, the next step is rough rounding of the shaft and grip on the shaper, using an appropriately sized router bit. This usually takes at least three passes on each of the facets. Taking very light cuts minimizes the chances of grain tear out, which at...

The glued up blank is 3/4" thick. Approx.11/16" after cleaning the glue up and running it through the planer. The grip cheeks and shaft facings add another 1/2 ".

After adhering the shaft faces and grip cheeks the faces and cheeks are trimmed flush with the blade blank, using a drum sander with flush bearing (like a flush trim router bit) but without the risk of tear out. The next step will be rough rounding of the shaft and grip.

Most of my blades, are buoyant to about 3/4 blade depth. Those with longer shafts tend to go a bit deeper and vice versa. River blades, being built a bit more study also tend to "float" a bit deeper.

Yes. Balance is important. When the shaft hand is in it's "normal" position, 4-6" above the throat, the paddle should be slightly blade heavy, IMO. Years ago, I remember seeing some paddles that had been grip weighted with an ounce or so of lead so as to offset too much blade weight. Figuring...

I should have been more diligent about that, years ago. As my dad used to say, "too old too soon, too smart too smart too late".

The hardwood shaft facings add stiffness. A cedar shaft alone would be too flexible. It, would also break too easily. When one paddles, the front and rear faces of the shaft are always being stressed. Sometimes the stresses are in compression, sometimes in tension. There are relatively small...

The cut out blade is shown in the foreground of the 1st photo. In the second photo the hardwood shaft facings and the grip cheeks have been glued and clamped. You'll note that the paddle is clamped to an extruded aluminum channel. This assures that there is no twist or warp in the shaft. When...

DOGPADDLE CANOE AND WOODWORKS The paddle blank is glued up and I've run it through the planer. I've marked it from my pattern (this blade will be a shallow water special) and am cutting it out on the bandsaw.

Titebond III for most although a few parts are done with epoxy.

Blade sections and accent stripes laid out with glue applied. Second photo has them in the clamps.

I have a conversation with the customer to determine their need/want. We discuss the type of paddle (river, shallow water, freestyle...). Then comes a discussion of shaft length. Sometimes their is a special request about grip size and or paddle shaft diameter. Aesthetics are always discussed...

Western red cedar is the most common wood that I use for the blades and shaft core. I also use eastern white cedar, and occasionally some repurposed redwood that I have on hand. For ultra light blades (saves and ounce +) I use paulonia. The shaft facings, blade tip, grip blocks and grip cheeks...

DOGPADDLE CANOE AND WOODWORKS Soon to become a paddle. All parts cut. 17 pieces plus Dynel edging (not shown). The shaft core-last piece in the rear- has already been laminated from 2 strips of red cedar. This will be a Shallow Water Special. Progress photos over the next several days.

Probably a bit stiffer but otherwise, pretty much the same. Using the card scarper instead of sandpaper is faster, cleaner, much better at flattening the surface and also a lot more satisfying to use.