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Did you scar up the tape on the forms, with the bevel? Did your strips slip out of alignment at all ? I'll throw in the ease of butt joining strips, is much easier with bead and coved strips. Bead and coving your strips, solves, these issues, as well as leaving far less glue squeeze out...

A Big THANKS to Glenn! Canotripping.net is by far the Best ! I didn't need AI to tell me that ! Thanks ! Jim

Bead and coving 1/4" thick strips, doesn't take much for a router. It is the best way to go ! A 7 1/4" Skilsaw, and a router will save you money, and time. Actually a lot of extra sanding too. I started with a Skilsaw, cause I couldn't afford a table saw. In reality ? The Skilsaw is a far...

Hope it works this time. Been having trouble with Photobucket lately. They take my money, but reduced the service. Very hard to share pics ! Check my original post. Click the blue link. Sorry and Thanks for the heads up guys ! Jim

I've delved into this a few times, over the years. If you are cutting strips from 1X stock ? Purchase Flat grain, or Slash cut planks. This will yield Quarter sawn strips. These will be the strongest, non warping , easiest to sand, and machine, strips. Some will tell you it doesn't make a...

Nice ! Stapleless always presents the challenge, of keeping the strips true to the forms. When you release the clamp ? The strips around the bilge area want to lift. That's why canoe designers use staples, when they build "Plugs" for fiberglass canoe molds. I have learned a few tricks to...

Yeah, I mapped the thwart placement, for my Bell gunnels. The only way I could get them to bend, to follow the shape of the shear. So how will you hang the seats ? The Bell gunnels are a two piece gunnel, with a "L" shape inside, that fits into a groove, of the main gunnel. They won't work...

Great to get it done ! Good we still have open water to paddle. Okoboji, should be a little quieter, than the last time we paddled it ! Ha ! Bet you miss your first Mate in the bow ! Take care ! Jim

Carbon is hard to see, if it wetted out fully, during infusion. I'd contact the manufacturer, and see if they would at least repair, or replace. Jim

I used aluminum gunnels on my composites. The Bell type. Great gunnels, but they are stiff, as they should be. This is not a complaint, but rather a tip to installation. I had force the gunnels to follow the hull shape. I found the best way, was to figure how wide my two thwarts needed to be...

Looks nice. On my first build, I widened the hull, very similar to this ! I found I struggled to hold a straight line of travel, untill I heeled it a little, the Heeling whipped that hull into shape nicely. With this build under your belt ? You are in line to build another. I know I'm still...

Another thought on your layup. A single layer of Carbon alone, won't add as much stiffness as you think. An insert over the football, will serve you better, unless you plan to add more layers, in place of an insert. Certainly doable ! Good Luck ! Jim

I've never been a fan of keels. I would look for a different hull. You will spend a lot of money on this build. You want to be happy with it. A keel will present more problems, than any benefit perceived to be gained. Glassing over it is the one, I would be concerned about. I would also lean...

I've built several canoes, using a similar method as you describe . I just finished up a 38 Spl. ( Bruce Kunz design.)16'3" about 29" wide. So I use a Stripper as a Male mold. Using a stripper, has the advantage, of also using the forms, to build a 1/8" thick, Cedar insert, instead of foam...

One of my Favorites. Portage yoke/ back rest. My Trangia Alcohol stove. And My Coleman Hulu single pole two man tent. Jim

Trying to find, Boat heat shrink wrap, 7 mill, or thicker. No luck locally. One Marina wants $22 a foot, to shrink wrap. That's not going to happen. They won't sell me the film. I can buy what I want online, but not willing to pay for a large roll, when I only need 17'x 5'. I've used Window...

So I have a new idea . You have all seen large motor boats shrink wrapped, with a blue plastic. I'm going to check into getting my 38 Spl, without outwhales. Shrink wrapped. I could then easily pull a Kevlar copy from it ! My recent, Kevlar 38 Spl., at 16'3" with a 2.5# seat, came in at...

That is an Awesome deal !

Yes. I liken them to a third hand, for hold strips. The biggest two advantages to bead and cove. One strip alignment. Bead and Coved strips, stay in place. Hand beveling, or Robo beveling, doesn't. The strips will often slip. This causes a lot of excess sanding, and thin spots in the strip...

So long as there's no " Wanted Posters" out on you ! ;)