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Most of my blades, are buoyant to about 3/4 blade depth. Those with longer shafts tend to go a bit deeper and vice versa. River blades, being built a bit more study also tend to "float" a bit deeper.

Yes. Balance is important. When the shaft hand is in it's "normal" position, 4-6" above the throat, the paddle should be slightly blade heavy, IMO. Years ago, I remember seeing some paddles that had been grip weighted with an ounce or so of lead so as to offset too much blade weight. Figuring...

I should have been more diligent about that, years ago. As my dad used to say, "too old too soon, too smart too smart too late".

The hardwood shaft facings add stiffness. A cedar shaft alone would be too flexible. It, would also break too easily. When one paddles, the front and rear faces of the shaft are always being stressed. Sometimes the stresses are in compression, sometimes in tension. There are relatively small...

The cut out blade is shown in the foreground of the 1st photo. In the second photo the hardwood shaft facings and the grip cheeks have been glued and clamped. You'll note that the paddle is clamped to an extruded aluminum channel. This assures that there is no twist or warp in the shaft. When...

DOGPADDLE CANOE AND WOODWORKS The paddle blank is glued up and I've run it through the planer. I've marked it from my pattern (this blade will be a shallow water special) and am cutting it out on the bandsaw.

Titebond III for most although a few parts are done with epoxy.

Blade sections and accent stripes laid out with glue applied. Second photo has them in the clamps.

I have a conversation with the customer to determine their need/want. We discuss the type of paddle (river, shallow water, freestyle...). Then comes a discussion of shaft length. Sometimes their is a special request about grip size and or paddle shaft diameter. Aesthetics are always discussed...

Western red cedar is the most common wood that I use for the blades and shaft core. I also use eastern white cedar, and occasionally some repurposed redwood that I have on hand. For ultra light blades (saves and ounce +) I use paulonia. The shaft facings, blade tip, grip blocks and grip cheeks...

DOGPADDLE CANOE AND WOODWORKS Soon to become a paddle. All parts cut. 17 pieces plus Dynel edging (not shown). The shaft core-last piece in the rear- has already been laminated from 2 strips of red cedar. This will be a Shallow Water Special. Progress photos over the next several days.

Probably a bit stiffer but otherwise, pretty much the same. Using the card scarper instead of sandpaper is faster, cleaner, much better at flattening the surface and also a lot more satisfying to use.

Using a card scraper to flatten and smooth the epoxy surface of a freestyle paddle. One of several steps before final finishing.

As close as I can come to answering your "constrained" question. I've several times been asked, why is it referred to as freestyle, when it seems like there are such specific maneuvers and prescribed ways of doing them? The specific maneuvers are the building blocks and the prescribed ways of...

As to "functional" being a relatively new term, it is, sort of. As I understand it, the early development of freestyle (originally called sport paddling) was entirely functional. Along the way, the public perception of the genre, influenced heavily by videos, became synonymous with the...

That's an interesting perspective. I'll have to try it myself and see if I come to a similar conclusion. It may be some time before I have the opportunity. My other concern with paddling, stern heavy would be, when there is wind. With the boat significantly stern heavy, it will weather-vane...

Perhaps I misunderstand your reasoning. Canoes turn mostly from the stern. (The stern rotates around the bow) A skeg causes the stern to resist turning, to either side. With enough heel, (and or pitch) it may be possible to raise the skegged stern clear of the water, but then the skeg will have...

If the differential rocker results in the stern being skegged (as is often the case) it will take a defined level of heel and or pitch to lift the "skeg" clear before the stern will be free to skid. That "defined level" will vary from boat to boat. The load being carried and where it is...

Got it. Just wanted to be certain that we were talking about the same issue.

I'm not sure, but by using the term "edged", are you referring to heeling?