Search results

Gunnels get a lot of stress, but paddles, the most, in my thinking. If Titebond III, has worked for others, on paddles, and gunnels ? I'd say stick with it ! It would be a lot easier to work with, than epoxy, that's for sure ! I'll still stick with epoxy, for gunnel lamination, and if I...

I have also felt that Titebond III, to be softer, and more difficult to sand. Yes, more flexible, so maybe good and bad. Just not perfect. Agreed. Jim

Thanks Glenn, for sharing that test ! Though it didn't make a comparison of water soaking, I still wonder, if say Titebond III, was compared to epoxy, in that respect. Paddles are usually coated with a Polyurethane, or such, to water proof the blade. So that would change the effect. Maybe...

I've been working on several projects, that involve Water Proof, Wood Glue, at the Wood Shop lately. Getting my hands coated with a little wood glue. I let the glue go for a few hours, before washing it off. Washed right off with cold water. That got me to thinking, how Epoxy would never...

At my age ? I use the paddles as walking sticks . Jim

The Rice bags remind me of my Poor Man's vacum bagging ! I just used sand and plastic. It Works. Jim

Youngest son in my First Pearl. For his first paddle of the year. Always fun to see someone else paddle my canoes.

Nothing beats that First Spring Paddle ! The Ahh feeling, of the first lift of the paddle. The forward glide of that first stroke. The alertness required of balance, and the comfort of knowing your body, can still keep you upright. My Internal Batteries are now Recharged ! I can again take on...

Staple holes need to be filled, as they weep epoxy away from the cloth, leaving little divots, They a lot more work later. Just saying. Jim

Looks good ! I fill the staple holes, after my first rough sand. Wood glue on my finger, and press it in . Sand. Jim

Yes, on the tape. The Masking tape, often sticks to the inside, but comes off while scraping or sanding. I use Plastic tape on the stems, for sure. Don't need any sticking there ! Hard to tell, but did you follow the Shear, or will you stair step it, on the ends ? I know you are working in...

Very Nice Brian ! The Center line looks perfect ! I've always cut the center line with a Jap saw, leaving a little, to hand plane. The Sanding block is a good method to get it perfect ! Are the pics with the forms, with green tape, from a different canoe ? They also appear to be thicker...

I don't know what you plan to use for coating, but the Varnish grade, 4" Cigar type Foam rollers would be my choice, for application. There are several colored powder additives for Epoxy out there. That would be my choice. Mix the resin and hardener first, then add color. Make sure you mix...

I have had to splice gunnels for nearly all my strippers. It's really a good option, but you need a scarf ratio, of at least a 9 to 1ratio. I cut mine 10 to 1. Search for Ash, locally.. Ash has long been the wood of choice for canoe manufacturers, for good reason. It's flexible, and resists...

You have corrected the wave ! I know the Herringbone is more work and a challenge. It looks like you have it ! Great pics by the way ! Jim

Another benefit. The herringbone method, makes it easier to keep the strips tight to the hull, giving you a true to the form shape. Canoe designers, use this method for that reason.

I've always built with WRC. Maybe it has to do with the wood you are using ? If you have Faired your forms, the strips should lay flat. It's not the hull design, as many have been built using these designs. It's likely the wood you are using. Too stiff to bend ? Many Builders us a...

Did that strip warp after you glued it into place ? I've never had that happen on any of my Stemless hulls. I start stripping in the middle of the canoe, and work towards the ends. Where do you start stripping from ? Jim

The Jimmie clamps are like an extra hand, I use them to hold the strip in place, while I work clamping strips to the forms. . I still like working with the thicker 1/4" strips, better than 3/16" strips ! Jim

I have the 3/16" bits, but opted for the 1/4". There is enough cove with the 1/4" bits, to hold the strip in place, and to me ? That's what 's important.