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You have discovered the problems involved keeping the strips tight to the forms. There are more to come. Good luck ! Jim

Picking up a 50# canoe and portaging it, is harder than doing the same with a 30# canoe. It doesn't matter how much you weigh, or how in shape you are. Problem, is reducing the weight of a canoe. Reducing the amount of resin needed to build a hull, by say 30% , without sacrificing the...

The weight savings is from glassing, the outside of the canoe. The weave is buried. so no fill coats required. The weight savings is from not needing extra epoxy, to fill the weave.. So I need to be more clear. Here is a simple test. Take a piece of cloth, lay it on some plastic, or wood...

So lately, I finished up another Composite canoe. Where I use a stripper as a Male mold. After I varnished the inside. It Dawned on me. Why did I use Fill coats, two of them, to fill the weave of the fiberglass cloth ? If I would have used a Saran Wrap type plastic, over the Wet out coat ? I...

Bead and Cove, helps in the entire process. It reduces the amount of sanding, due mostly to excess glue, and misaligned strips. It also saves time in assembling the hull. Butt joints are easier with bead and cove also. To Me ? It's a No Brainer ! I built my first few canoes, by hand...

Twice over the years, the double layer would have been the "Stitch in Time" Once, on a friend's canoe, that developed a small split, in the keel. This was in the BWCA. Duct tape got him home. The other time, was a guy, that decided to climb into one of my Wee Lasse strippers, while sitting on...

I use staples where needed.... I love these clamps. They are like an extra hand. They hold the strip in place, so I can place a staple in a strip, that doesn't conform to the station. Since I came up with these clamps ? I've not built without them. Yeah stapleless takes longer ! The most...

Over the 35 years of building these things, I've always gone stemless. It's easier, and I like the look. Never had a problem with the strength of the laminations at the stems. I overlap the inside glass, and add two bias strips of cloth to the outside. Had a Wee Lasse size canoe, fall off...

I too am interested in the fasteners, you are using ? Looks like a great start. In my opinion, it's fun to modify plans. Makes the build, especially when you put it in the water, more exciting ! Jim

I'm assuming that you are also stretching the form spacing, along with widening the hull ? Jim

I'm still in the camp of putting the extra layer, layer of cloth, on the outside, and on top of main layer. It adds stiffness and durability. Inside ? just stiffness. Actually using thicker wood would give you a stiffer hull.

Curious where you are finding 6 oz S-glass ? I'm building another 38 Spl. now. Finishing up a Kevlar copy of it also. I find the 38 Spl, one of the best hulls I have built and put on the water. The Kevlar copy should weigh in at around 35 #, and 16'3" long. Good to see another build...

One of the main differences between TB III and epoxy, is the gap filling capabilities. I mix Cab O Sill ( Fumed Silica) and ground glass, for anywhere I need to fill gaps, and still be strong. I will also add very fine saw dust for color, if needed. The result is a putty, that I can adjust...

A Friend used Hide glue to glue up strips, on a canoe. It failed. We had a time getting it glassed. After that the Epoxy took over. I bought some Weldwood plastic cement, but never used it. It was to be mixed with water. Think I still have a plastic container of it some where. This last...

No steam, just band saw cut to shape. I did pay attention to the grain of the wood. The long frames had vertical grain, for the most part. I give Praise, to Jim Moran's Book, "Building your own Kevlar Canoe" ! I highly recommend picking up a copy. My difference is that I used a Stripper...

This is my first Webbed seat. I used Stainless 1/4" staples, from Arrow. A little spendy. I tried 5/16" staples, but the Ash was too hard. Even a little too hard for 1/4" staples. I pre cut, and lightly melted the ends, of the straps to prevent unraveling. I just hand tightened, as the Poly...

Put together a few frames, using the new design. Picked up some Polypropylene HD 1" wide, in blue, from Strapworks. What I like about the arched frame, is it allows the paddler to shift his weight, fore and aft, and still be comfortable. The 1" webbing, is heavier than my Snowshoe corded...

Cool Moose pic !

My lower hand rests on the gunnel when I pry. One thing I enjoy about paddling a canoe, is sneaking as close, as I can to game, or a favorite fishing spot, without spooking anything. I learned that as a kid, and it stayed with me. So no. My paddle doesn't touch the gunnel, unless I'm sloppy...

Good test Alan Using the same hull, eliminates the variable, you will find in the Olympic races, between single and double hulls. Years ago, in The Iowa Games, I distinctly remember, a kayaker leaving me in his wake. I attributed it to the hull differences, and the fact the Kayaker was in...