Search results

Nice ! Stapleless always presents the challenge, of keeping the strips true to the forms. When you release the clamp ? The strips around the bilge area want to lift. That's why canoe designers use staples, when they build "Plugs" for fiberglass canoe molds. I have learned a few tricks to...

Yeah, I mapped the thwart placement, for my Bell gunnels. The only way I could get them to bend, to follow the shape of the shear. So how will you hang the seats ? The Bell gunnels are a two piece gunnel, with a "L" shape inside, that fits into a groove, of the main gunnel. They won't work...

Great to get it done ! Good we still have open water to paddle. Okoboji, should be a little quieter, than the last time we paddled it ! Ha ! Bet you miss your first Mate in the bow ! Take care ! Jim

Carbon is hard to see, if it wetted out fully, during infusion. I'd contact the manufacturer, and see if they would at least repair, or replace. Jim

I used aluminum gunnels on my composites. The Bell type. Great gunnels, but they are stiff, as they should be. This is not a complaint, but rather a tip to installation. I had force the gunnels to follow the hull shape. I found the best way, was to figure how wide my two thwarts needed to be...

Looks nice. On my first build, I widened the hull, very similar to this ! I found I struggled to hold a straight line of travel, untill I heeled it a little, the Heeling whipped that hull into shape nicely. With this build under your belt ? You are in line to build another. I know I'm still...

Another thought on your layup. A single layer of Carbon alone, won't add as much stiffness as you think. An insert over the football, will serve you better, unless you plan to add more layers, in place of an insert. Certainly doable ! Good Luck ! Jim

I've never been a fan of keels. I would look for a different hull. You will spend a lot of money on this build. You want to be happy with it. A keel will present more problems, than any benefit perceived to be gained. Glassing over it is the one, I would be concerned about. I would also lean...

I've built several canoes, using a similar method as you describe . I just finished up a 38 Spl. ( Bruce Kunz design.)16'3" about 29" wide. So I use a Stripper as a Male mold. Using a stripper, has the advantage, of also using the forms, to build a 1/8" thick, Cedar insert, instead of foam...

One of my Favorites. Portage yoke/ back rest. My Trangia Alcohol stove. And My Coleman Hulu single pole two man tent. Jim

Trying to find, Boat heat shrink wrap, 7 mill, or thicker. No luck locally. One Marina wants $22 a foot, to shrink wrap. That's not going to happen. They won't sell me the film. I can buy what I want online, but not willing to pay for a large roll, when I only need 17'x 5'. I've used Window...

So I have a new idea . You have all seen large motor boats shrink wrapped, with a blue plastic. I'm going to check into getting my 38 Spl, without outwhales. Shrink wrapped. I could then easily pull a Kevlar copy from it ! My recent, Kevlar 38 Spl., at 16'3" with a 2.5# seat, came in at...

That is an Awesome deal !

Yes. I liken them to a third hand, for hold strips. The biggest two advantages to bead and cove. One strip alignment. Bead and Coved strips, stay in place. Hand beveling, or Robo beveling, doesn't. The strips will often slip. This causes a lot of excess sanding, and thin spots in the strip...

So long as there's no " Wanted Posters" out on you ! ;)

A closer look at you stems ? I believe either your two piece forms, attached to the stem, are too low, or your inner stems are too high ? Someone more familiar with the Kite build, can tell you more ? It looks to me like you will be building a bump, or what they term " Hog Nose" on the...

All I know, is it takes me a lot more time, and trips back and forth, to the wood shop. Even when I'm just doing a partial Staple less method. If a guy could hold the strips in place with Jimmie clamps, and use CA glue, and accelerator ? A guy could whizz through a hull. Jim

That is some great variety, at reasonable cost. Thanks Brian! Jim

I've used drop cloth plastic, Visqueen, and window heat shrink plastic, all with good release. The Boat shrink wrap might be ideal ! Especially if you form it to the hull, prior to laying it over the wetted cloth. Eliminating wrinkles. Great idea Cruiser ! Jim

I'm surprised I hadn't thought of this before. Getting a plastic layer, on the tumblehomed area of the wetted hull? Might be a real challenge ! Much easier over just the football. As far as actual resin savings ? I was just throwing out a guess. So what triggered this thread ? When I...