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Actually, the stripes in the cleats are for strength as well as looks. I was concerned with cherry the corners could split off, so I added a walnut spline.

Well, I'm finally done, except for sanding, varnishing, and weaving the seats. Unfortunately, it looks like I'll be heating the garage to varnish. I used a 3/8" brass pipe nipple through the stems for a tie down. Thought I had a picture of it, but I guess not. I'll try to post a couple in...

Bill those tube straps look very similar to what my students developed years ago. At the time, there wasn't anything like them on the market (unless they hid these from me, which is always possible). I didn't think much of them, until they did the testing. They could withstand incredible...

I used to teach an "Engineering Design & Development" class. I had a group of students develop a universal tie down that would work on any vehicle. Simply open the door, hood, trunk, etc. and close it in. Gave you a loop to tie off to. I encouraged them to pursue a patent or sell their idea...

I've never used a flaring tool. I'm assuming you're using something like a spin flare? Do you have to cut the tube at an angle that matches the hull, so the flare is consistent? Maybe I'll get one and practice with it. If that doesn't work, I was thinking about getting a bronze pipe nipple...

Thanks Jim. I've explored the bearmountain build forum, didn't know they had a hole thread related to just the Prospector build. Very helpful. On a side note, I'd like to include a bronze flush fair lead for tie-down like shown in this picture. Anyone have a source for these?

I'm not saying I'll want to move the seats once I get them installed where they should be. I'm saying I don't have a lot of confidence I'll hit that on the first try :) SG: I kind of like that idea. Perhaps a trip to the pond would be a good idea.

Ok, cleats it is. Time to revisit Brian's "Lightweight Solo Tripper" thread. I'm more than a little nervous that where I put the seats is where they stay. Epoxy coated the gunwales, decks, and yoke (not installed yet) yesterday. How long do I have to wait before varnishing? Looked on the...

Jim: You're confusing me, which is pretty easy to do. First, you suggest go with cleats. Then, you give me advice on drops. Still haven't decided which way to go. I'll decide by morning. The way I see it, my options are: 1. Go with cleats. Shouldn't be too hard to form to the hull. I...

Correction. Seats are currently 18” wide, 12 deep outside-outside. Add 2” to depth would make it much better. Yet another reason I need a “thinking day”

I thought about that, and still am. Seats are currently 16 1/2” wide, 12” deep.

Either way, it’ll be noticeable, at least by me. Space between scuppers is 1” bigger at intended hanger locations. Going to take day off of canoe to think about it, work on honey do list. I’ll slip in a couple hours for final sanding & clean up. Then I’m ready for varnish (unless I’m making &...

Holes drilled @ 1” spacing, 13/64. Used metal cutting bit, virtually no tear-out. I did use a backer block, and moved it every few holes. Put seat frames on gunwales, and UH OH!. I figured scupper spacing & layout for width of seat not depth. CRAP! This is going to be the kind of oops I’ll look...

Jim: I was just looking closer at the finished canoe picture above. What is the button/plug on the side of the spacer block for dropping the seats? Also, I've seen several posts about trim work where the decks are glassed. I wasn't planning on glassing them, just an epoxy coating so the...

Here's the stuff I found that I'm planning on using. No neoprene, but...... https://snowshoe.com/products/snowshoe-accessories-techdeck-lacing-by-the-spool-traditional-wood-snowshoes

Jim: Yes, I mortised the joints. I was going to do a blind mortise & tennon, but I didn't want to cut that much away from the curved cross members. I mortised a bit over 1/8" deep, and added a 2" maple dowel to the joint. I'm glad you can't see the mortises, but it speaks more to the quality...

I found this source for nylon flat webbing, called snowshoe lacing. I've never used it, but I'm nearly ready to weave my seats for my first build. Only question I have is, buy it by the yard, or go in for a whole spool? I'm already planning my next build, so might just as well get a whole...

Yeah, I just couldn't find his post about it. I found it now. There's lots of good seat info, including references to the webbing (tubular nylon cord). It's under "seat frame mortise" thread: https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/seat-frame-mortise.55533/

Well, I've got seat frames done, decks done, and yoke done. No picture of the yoke, it's in the canoe at home I've decided I'm going to go with a synthetic snow shoe lacing, rather than caning the seats. The caning really looks nice, but I decided I wanted it more rustic, and saving time...

I don't know about cost savings.....but I didn't start this project to save money. I have thoroughly enjoyed the project. I've built half mil houses in less time. One of the aspects I really appreciate having gotten most of the way through my first build is this: You can get rather "ham...