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Sorry ! Photo bucket has changed things, and I'm trying to learn the new way. Check to see, if I have things corrected ? Jim

A Thought that might interest you. Once you have the outside glassed and varnished. Why not build a Kevlar copy ? I have a thread a while back on doing that, if you are interested. I would bet you will use that Kevlar copy more ! I know I do ! A link, or two. I hope...

For making it easier to install the Whiskey strip, I didn't strip all the way to the center on the first side. That way, I could easily fit the last few strips on both sides at once. I even made a great opportunity for an accent.

Flotation chambers are a must in my book. You will want to finish the inside of the stems, regardless of tanks. A wood strip hull will float, barely above the water. Push down on it, and it will sink. Problem is, it takes a long time to resurface ! Flotaion chambers bring it back to the...

Looks good ! I would delay the varnish, until done with the inside. Otherwise you will likely scar it up, while working the inside. Good you have the centerline cut. I always enjoyed fitting the final strips. Jim

Creative ! Some times you just have to adapt ! Way to go ! Looks great ! Jim

You are fine. Looks great ! I usually drop the stem forms, before starting to strip, a 1/4", to reduce the hump that you will get . Too late for that now. Don't worry. Just keep stripping. The transition from vertical to horizontal is a little tricky. Cutting the angle is different with each...

Good ! Not all builders, especially Newbies, keep a dust free enviroment. And Yes, any irregularities left between the hull and the cloth, will raise the cloth. I've scraped and repaired enough of them. Seal coats are fine, it's just a little extra work. I know you won't have any problems ...

It would be the best, if we could, in one application, lay the cloth, wet it out and fill coats at one time. No need to worry about blush between coats. With my method, I'm up late and usually get up sometime during the night to apply that last fill coat. I know others wait until the next...

Waiting to 72 hrs, just increases the likely hold of contaminates, and blush. Blush is the result of moisture, ( Humidity ) and carbon dioxide reacting as the resin cures. The longer you wait after epoxy application, increases the creation of Amine blush. So here is what I do and what the...

I've always wondered how people interpret that 72 hour thing ? What would be the difference, if I waited 73 hours ? A System Three Tech, told me it was better not to wait. Stating I would get a clearer, and better bond. I have abided by that and had no issues. Jim

I agree with above posts. RAKA 127 resin, and 350 Non blush hardener. If there is any chance you'd build another canoe ? I'd go with the three gallon kit. I would go with the 6 oz cloth. Same price, but a bit more durable, unless you are going with 4 oz S-glass. Jim

Cut back on the glue ! You will thank me later ! My goal is not to see any glue squeeze out. It will save you a ton of sanding and scraping later !!! Yes ! Go stemless, or go home ! Ha ! Just a little rib for those Stem guys ! :p

As far as thickness, similar to kevlar felt. I bought mine at a fabric store years ago. A Hobby Lobby, if my memory serves me correctly. It conforms very well. I used it on my Carbon fiber/Kevlar hulls. I even laid in a layer, on the inside, of the stems, in case I had a sever wear issue.

A simple trick, to prevent tear out, turn the strip, end for end, when you run your next strip. I would add an extra layer of tape to your stem forms. Often times, I would nick the tape, when tapering strip ends, on the forms. It's no fun prying your hull off the forms ! Nice clamps ! Jim

My choice for skid plates has turned to 100% Polyester fleece ( sweat shirt material ) It adds thickness, and is more resistant than fiberglass for wear. I can find it in colors, so far I've used black for a carbon look, and yellow for a Kevlar look. Oh, you can sand it to feather it into a...

I have read pros and cons of the bevels. While some like them, to me it's too fiddly. It doesn't do anything to lock the strips in place, like bead and cove. I can bead and cove all my strips in far less time, than it takes to hand bevel. With the roto bevel, you would want to plane your...

All lumber starts out Rough. It's the machine work, that uniforms it. I've worked with several planks that varied 5/8" - 7/8". My router easily turned those strips, into uniform strips, of slightly less than 5/8", including the lip on the cove. I've proven this time and time again. No need...

No need for a joiner, when cutting strips from rough cut planks. A Skilsaw will cut your strips very uniform, in thickness. A Router will uniform your strips in width, the very first pass while cutting the bead, using this method. If you run your strips between the fence and the bit. Which...

I studied them, and passed on them. They are hard on your forms, they are more visible than a regular staple hole. More expensive. I don't see an advantage. My $.02 worth. Jim