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Mégiscane River, Québec

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After thinking for the third time, "Surely this is the end of the rapids and lac Octavie will appear around the next bend," the water disappeared, leaving only that straight line that all voyageurs know, means a chute, a falls. I was so tired, so discouraged, and the span so narrow I actually entertained the idea of paddling over the falls. "Maybe it's just a ledge. Maybe it isn’t very steep. Maybe there’s a tongue," whispered some exhausted part of my brain. With all my willpower, I resisted temptation and pulled over to river right, bound the canoe bow and stern and worked my way up to the edge. It was a falls. With jagged rocks. A tree I thought was ahead of the falls, was actually behind the falls. I had very little purchase on the verge.

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After securing the boat even more, I blasted my way through the forest of downed trees, ferns, vines, soaking mosses, holes and other surprises to see how long the portage would be. The rapids went on and on, into the distance, around a bend. My information came from topo maps and credible people from the forum. Nothing mentioned rapids or waterfalls. There was no sign of a portage trail. I could not fathom continuing.

My shirts were soaked with sweat. Sweat burned my eyes. Scratches and scrapes stung shins, forearms. Not anticipating a long walk, I'd worn only water slippers. Well named, I slipped. More than once. I knew I couldn't scout any further. Should I walk uphill to the clear cut in hopes of finding a path back or continue to hack my way through the bushes and brush by the water? When in doubt, pick a third option: I went into the water.

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This is a tough report to write. A lot of things went wrong. I violated nearly every hard and fast rule I have for wilderness tripping just in order to keep going. In the next installment, I'll explain how I got here.
 
Part 2

It all started 30 years ago with this book:

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We had learned tandem whitewater on the upper Hudson River with Jerry Jenkins, a one armed paddler and then spent a week at Nantahala back when you could camp for free on the west side of the river. We'd taken our first real 12 day outing in La Vérendrye and I was ready for more. After extensively researching the above book (remember, there was no internet, no forums in the 80s) I chose the Mégiscane.

We paddled the Rivière Mégiscane two summers in a row. My canoe partner and then-spouse and I made a great paddling and tripping team. Though this was more than 30 years ago, I never found someone who could replace Jacques. At 71 years of age, I wanted to see if I could still paddle it as I did in my 30s. Solo.

I drove from my home near Lake Placid, Florida, to Senneterre, QC. The trip was uneventful except for stopping to see Jacques and his wife (a kayaker!). He'd found more of our old pictures and we looked through them together, laughing and saying, "Do you remember, etc. etc." And we did. It was amazing to go through the photos and the memories they evoked. It turned out to be a fortuitous visit for several reasons.

Jacques on the Rivière Mégiscane circa 1989
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While the mapping program shows 2 days and 9 hours for the drive north, I really can only drive 6-8 hours per day. I spent some 10 days on the road taking it easy and spending some extra "rest" days packing and repacking.

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I crossed into Canada via the International Bridge and the Canadian Border Guard really grilled me about where I was going and what I was doing. She almost had a smile on her face, leaning back in her chair, gazing up at me, so I almost thought she was razzing me, but of course one cannot act on that at the border. I told her I was going canoeing. *Where*? Well, in Quebec. *What city?* Senneterre. She'd never heard of it. Val d'Or? Not that one either. Montreal? So we started from Montreal and worked our way up through Maniwaki, La Vérendrye (she'd never heard of it), to Val d'Or, to Senneterre and from there a train to Monet. "*What about your canoe*? Well, the canoe goes on the train with me. She looked at me like I had lost my marbles. I started to wonder if she thought I was putting her on. Eventually she let me pass.

By the way, I learned this trip that Québécois do not pronounce Monet in the French manner, like the painter, Claude Monet. They said "M'nette." Until I figured this out, they did not know what I was talking about.

The train station at Senneterre was easy to find. It doubles as a staging area for utility services, so there are vehicles going in and out all day. My 4Runner was untouched after three weeks sitting there, in a long line of other vehicles. Earlier in the season, recped reported in this forum that the train left during the day, say 8 am and got to Monet at 10 am. Unfortunately, this schedule had been changed to leaving at 8 pm and getting to Monet at 10 pm, which would of course be well after dark.

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Thirty years ago, the train had dumped us at an empty station at Monet where a worker was very accommodating and friendly, but warned us the manager was not. Wanting to avoid a confrontation with an irritable Québécois, I chose instead to be dropped off at the trestle over the inlet to lac Octavie.

With one notable exception near the end of this tale, all the Québécois I interacted were friendly, kind and helpful even offering suggestions and help. Most speak little to no English. This was true at the train station where a couple with a delightful daughter told me the train does not run today. They were walking to the station because the daughter had never ridden a train before and was afraid. This dry run was to get her used to at least seeing the train station and tracks.

I was lucky these kind people stopped by. Otherwise the station was vacant. It was now almost 9 pm and I had no place to stay for the night. The three motels in Senneterre were full, but I found an AirBnB about 15 minutes away. I was told I would be greeted by Vladimir. That gave me some pause, but Vlad turned out to be a friendly engaging man interested in my canoe. During my entire trip the only person who made note of my Colden Dragonfly as either beautiful or at least unusual was this handyman at a motel undergoing renovations.

The next night, when the train actually did run, found the station decently peopled with travelers and a couple of conductors. Another passenger helped me load the canoe and gear into the baggage car. I settled into the comfortable seats and watched the light bleed from the sky. I explained to the conductors that I wanted to be let off at the trestle at Monet, not at the station. His English was very good. I showed him the map. All was cool.

Night took over. The train made a couple of stops, one was for the pourvoirie at lac Faillon, the takeout of our second Mégiscane trip and my projected take out. The conductor gave me a five minute warning and I pulled things together to disembark. Baggage handlers tossed out my packs and the canoe. The railroad embankment was narrow and very high. The canoe hung out over the edge. The conductor asked if I was okay. They were clearly worried about dumping me in the middle of nowhere in the middle of the night. I was not overly concerned. Maps indicated a short portage. I realized not many people paddle the Mégiscane, but I expected to find evidence of a trail and looked forward to camping by the water.

As the train pulled away, quiet and dark were restored. A full moon brightened the night sky and the water below.

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As it turns out, the conductors were right to be concerned. My troubles were just beginning.
 
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Part 2

It all started 30 years ago with this book:

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We had learned tandem whitewater on the upper Hudson River with Jerry Jenkins, a one armed paddler and then spent a week at Nantahala back when you could camp for free on the west side of the river. We'd taken our first real 12 day outing in La Vérendrye and I was ready for more. After extensively researching the above book (remember, there was no internet, no forums in the 80s) I chose the Mégiscane.

We paddled the Rivière Mégiscane two summers in a row. My canoe partner and then-spouse and I made a great paddling and tripping team. Though this was more than 30 years ago, I never found someone who could replace Jacques. At 71 years of age, I wanted to see if I could still paddle it as I did in my 30s. Solo.

I drove from my home near Lake Placid, Florida, to Senneterre, QC. The trip was uneventful except for stopping to see Jacques and his wife (a kayaker!). He'd found more of our old pictures and we looked through them together, laughing and saying, "Do you remember, etc. etc." And we did. It was amazing to go through the photos and the memories they evoked. It turned out to be a fortuitous visit for several reasons.

Jacques on the Rivière Mégiscane circa 1989
View attachment 150295

While the mapping program shows 2 days and 9 hours for the drive north, I really can only drive 6-8 hours per day. I spent some 10 days on the road taking it easy and spending some extra "rest" days packing and repacking.

View attachment 150296

I crossed into Canada via the International Bridge and the Canadian Border Guard really grilled me about where I was going and what I was doing. She almost had a smile on her face, leaning back in her chair, gazing up at me, so I almost thought she was razzing me, but of course one cannot act on that at the border. I told her I was going canoeing. *Where*? Well, in Quebec. *What city?* Senneterre. She'd never heard of it. Val d'Or? Not that one either. Montreal? So we started from Montreal and worked our way up through Maniwaki, La Vérendrye (she'd never heard of it), to Val d'Or, to Senneterre and from there a train to Monet. "*What about your canoe*? Well, the canoe goes on the train with me. She looked at me like I had lost my marbles. I started to wonder if she thought I was putting her on. Eventually she let me pass.

By the way, I learned this trip that Québécois do not pronounce Monet in the French manner, like the painter, Claude Monet. They said "M'nette." Until I figured this out, they did not know what I was talking about.

The train station at Senneterre was easy to find. It doubles as a staging area for utility services, so there are vehicles going in and out all day. My 4Runner was untouched after three weeks sitting there, in a long line of other vehicles. Earlier in the season, recped reported in this forum that the train left during the day, say 8 am and got to Monet at 10 am. Unfortunately, this schedule had been changed to leaving at 8 pm and getting to Monet at 10 pm, which would of course be well after dark.

View attachment 150297

Thirty years ago, the train had dumped us at an empty station at Monet where a worker was very accommodating and friendly, but warned us the manager was not. Wanting to avoid a confrontation with an irritable Québécois, I chose instead to be dropped off at the trestle over the inlet to lac Octavie.

With one notable exception near the end of this tale, all the Québécois I interacted were friendly, kind and helpful even offering suggestions and help. Most speak little to no English. This was true at the train station where a couple with a delightful daughter told me the train does not run today. They were walking to the station because the daughter had never ridden a train before and was afraid. This dry run was to get her used to at least seeing the train station and tracks.

I was lucky these kind people stopped by. Otherwise the station was vacant. It was now almost 9 pm and I had no place to stay for the night. The three motels in Senneterre were full, but I found an AirBnB about 15 minutes away. I was told I would be greeted by Vladimir. That gave me some pause, but Vlad turned out to be a friendly engaging man interested in my canoe. During my entire trip the only person who made note of my Colden Dragonfly as either beautiful or at least unusual was this handyman at a motel undergoing renovations.

The next night, when the train actually did run, found the station decently peopled with travelers and a couple of conductors. Another passenger helped me load the canoe and gear into the baggage car. I settled into the comfortable seats and watched the light bleed from the sky. I explained to the conductors that I wanted to be let off at the trestle at Monet, not at the station. His English was very good. I showed him the map. All was cool.

Night took over. The train made a couple of stops, one was for the pourvoirie at lac Faillon, the takeout of our second Mégiscane trip and my projected take out. The conductor gave me a five minute warning and I pulled things together to disembark. Baggage handlers tossed out my packs and the canoe. The railroad embankment was narrow and very high. The canoe hung out over the edge. The conductor asked if I was okay. They were clearly worried about dumping me in the middle of nowhere in the middle of the night. I was not overly concerned. Maps indicated a short portage. I realized not many people paddle the Mégiscane, but I expected to find evidence of a trail and looked forward to camping by the water.

As the train pulled away, quiet and dark were restored. A full moon brightened the night sky and the water below.

View attachment 150298

As it turns out, the conductors were right to be concerned. My troubles were just beginning.
Such a well-written trip report, Erica. It has me hanging out at my keyboard waiting for the next installment. And, you are such an inspiration for getting out there and getting it done. Wow!
 
2025 - The Day After

The night I was dropped off by the side of the tracks was so horrible I have been unable to write about it. It didn't rain and I didn't get attacked by a bear, but everything else seemingly went wrong; it was confusing and exhausting to an extent I've never before felt. So, let’s move on to the next morning and come back to the first night at some later date.

As my brain returned to consciousness, my first thought was *What happened to the tent?* Then, "Why do my shoulder and hip hurt so much?" And finally I remembered half my gear and the canoe were still on the top of the embackment. I had managed to get everything far enough off the tracks to feel "safe." I wanted to hide from it all, but there is no place to hide when alone in the wilderness.

First on the agenda was getting the canoe and the rest of the gear down off the embankment. This was much more difficult than it sounded. I was worried I would damage the canoe before I even got on the water.

Next was finding a decent place to camp. Still thinking I would find signs of others' camps, I looked around to no avail.

I felt so depleted I knew I had to stay in this area another night. The forest was like a jungle. It was almost impossible to walk through it. Vines laced bushes and trees in the moss covered ground. Deep, clotted mosses covered everything, hiding the pitfalls below. If there was a level square foot along the water, I didn't find it. I did find a sort of somewhat level spot; with four trees reasonably spaced so a tent could be erected. It was uneven, lumpy, not level, but I could live with it.

I walked back to the base of the embankment, picked up the tent (easily found about 20 feet away in the morning) under one arm and picked up a pack with the other walked about five steps and put the pack down. I had to have at least one hand free to balance and negotiate the trees and branches. I walked back to where I found the sort of ok space and found nothing. I had not marked it and I had no idea how much this part of the forest resembled that part of the forest. I remembered it was back a short ways off the water. After much searching I gave up and sat in a very small clearing, probably the result of beaver or muskrat use. This little patch of bare ground could be my kitchen.

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And I found a couple of reasonably spaced trees and set up a hammock and a mesh tent. I had brought these along for two reasons. I could use it if I couldn't find a place for the tent and it's nice to have a place to hang out - pardon the pun - when I just want a short rest. I brought the mesh tent because the bug netting sold for hammocks gives me claustrophobia.

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I could not figure out how to erect the mesh canopy higher than the hammock. After pondering this for a while, I just ripped it out. Later, I patched the rip with heavy duty Velcro tape. This looked good, but there was not enough surface area on the mesh to hold the sticky tape part. I used large safety pins to try to patch that up. It was far from perfect, but was good enough.

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I spent the remainder of that day resting. Nap in the hammock. A refreshing dip in the water. A hideous toad. When I first noticed it, I could not decide if it was a leaf, a flying squirrel, a rock or a toad. It has claws. Google assures me that toads never have claws, but some toads extent their toes so far, they look like claws. I thought it looked like something out of the Mines of Moria. One of the hangers-on of the Balrog perhaps.

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When I woke from a well-deserved nap, I greatly enjoyed hanging in the forest, looking at what clouds and blue sky peaked through the trees. A couple of butterflies were trapped in the mesh.

The next few paragraphs are about the butterflies and I have lumped them together here so if your interest flags, you can just skip forward. Each butterfly is so unlike the *Very Hungry Caterpillar* that it's worth taking a closer look.

The first is a fritillary butterfly, probably the Arctic Fritillary (*Boloria chariclea*), which flies in July and August in the north.

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The caterpillars take one to two years to "grow up" during which time they eat violets willow and blueberry leaves. The adults, which live only one to two weeks, feed on the nectar of goldenrod and asters, which were plentiful along the water edges. The wings become battered and torn, some wear and tear and a bite from an unsuccessful bird. One or two of these butterflies decorated the landscape while I was camped in this area. I never saw them again.

The second butterfly is a Question Mark Butterfly (*Polygonia interrogationis*), named for a very tiny silver mark on the underside of its angular wings.

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The deep slashes that separate the upper from lower wings in this case are the actual design of the butterfly and not caused by a bird beak. This actual photo was taken at the end of the trip where the butterfly wings were perfectly shaped, the butterfly dust was fresh and velvety and the reflective sheen was vibrant. In contrast, the underside of the wing is camoflaged and when closed resembles a dry leaf as seen in this photo (not mine)

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You can also note the white question mark (silver in sunlight and yeah, it doesn't look like a question mark to me either.)

Question Marks are migratory and probably two flights arrive in Quebec in the summer months. The females lay their eggs any old place and trust their offspring will find the correct plants to eat, which include Hackberry, Elm, nettles and false nettles. They are typically found in woodlands and near streams and marshes. Question Mark adults feed on dead, decaying animals, rotton fruit and tree sap. If they are really desperate they may also take flower nectar.

The rarest butterfly in Canada is the Karner Blue. I mention this because I have loved Blues since I was a child on my knees, nose to the grass, watching the tiny blue butterflies in the lawn. The Karner Blue caterpillars eat only lupine leaves and habitat loss is believed to be the culprit in their decline. The males are the most colorful, having bright orange spots lining the edges of the lower wings, but I have always preferred the pure blue of the females.


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It was taking me longer to recuperate from my exertions the night of my arrival, so I decided to stay here another day. To be honest, except for the black flies and one or two trains a day, this was a delightful place. There was deep running water. Rocks. Flowers. Once one got off the tracks: no evidence that anyone had ever been here before.

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So I slept late yet again. I wandered around, back up to the tracks to see if I could find any other paths in the area. I went over the bridge and around back the other way, but saw nothing. Halfway down the embankment there was an old pole with antique glass insulators which I believe are now quite valuable. I considered trying to remove them and pack them out, but this seemed much too difficult and I had no interest in toting more weight.

Speaking of weight, I had to get the canoe from the base of the embankment to the still water at the base of the rapids. There was no way to carry the boat on my shoulders; there was hardly anyway for me to get through the trees, bushes and vines.

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My confidence had been spooked by my initial difficulties. I was afraid I couldn't make the turns, do the ferries, etc. This was pretty silly because it was a narrow bit of water and it burbled along merrily, but was hardly life threatening.

The way down was fast and fun. The maneuvering was minimal; the water did most of the work. Passed my chosen put-in location, and so had to turn around and paddle back up. Getting out was going to be a problem. The Colden Dragonfly does not handle well empty; the water was deep. The spot was narrow. In attempting to exit the boat, it heeled way to port side and I jumped out sliding into the water. I managed to keep the boat upright, but I was dripping wet.

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It only took me a few minutes to realize that once I was wet, I might as well get over to river right, where a large rock sat in a sunny spot. I walked the boat across and landed on the rock. A delightful spot. I dried out on the rock, realizing I'd have to get wet all over again, but I really didn't mind. The weather was warm and sunny and truth be told, I don't like getting wet, but once I am wet, I enjoy it immensely.

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I entertained myself examing the miniature forests of mosses and tiny vascular plants springing out of the cracks in the rock.

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I thoroughly enjoyed this day, in the woods, in the water and sleeping in the hammock with the stars above. Of course, I couldn't see the stars because the trees were so thick, but I could imagine them up there. I had regained my composure and I had a plan. Tomorrow, rested, I would load up my gear and get this trip going.

Of course, it wasn't that easy. Tomorrow brought a whole new set of problems.
 

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