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Jack's - Morris - Special

Pictures eh? You wanna see a strongback with a warp in it? Really?

Rippy.

The hull will be exactly like Mem's, straight up off the forms, I just plan some neat details from the Morris canoe style. Firstly, and only cosmetic really, will be the flared inner stem which is the most significant identifying detail of Morris canoes. I had to extend the stem form back a few inches to get the width I wanted although I'm still unsure how much of it will actually show inside the boat. Won't really know that until it comes off the forms in a few months.

One thing I see right off is why Mem's outer stem had the flare in it. Normally when you carve the inner stem to take the strips it works out in the end to be 3/4" wide with the strips, which the outer stem sits upon, but with the cheek created by the last form, it pushes the strips out further so the actual finished size is larger than 3/4" so the outer stem needs to be wider through that part of the boat. I could fatten form 6 a bit to reduce that, but it would change the depth of the cheeks and likely the wave riding shape of the boat.

I do plan to set it up as a solo, will build a seat and such eventually. Today, once it warms up a bit, I'll go try cutting strips. It was -8C overnight and even at 10am is still -1C. The plan includes pigmented resin on the exterior with a painted panel as well, graphics, two tone. Decks will be unique as well, still working out how I'm going to do those. I am keeping overall weight in mind too, so much to think about when I haven't even really started yet. A blend of old school and modern.

These aren't wood boats like a w/c. The wood is only there for shape, they are primarily fg canoes, which I get, but I just want to see if I can incorporate some old styling into it.
 
If I built it again, I would run the stems all the way back to the second station. going back to only the first station doesn't give the brass stem band as much area to protect as it could. The rocker rises pretty quickly in the stem area of that canoe.
 
Pictures eh?

Got the cutting started. I had one 16 foot and one 14 foot 2x6 in WRC. I now have 10 pieces of 1 1/2" x 13/16" stock which tomorrow should be 40 strips. I also have 3/4" boards left over from 5 years ago to cut and some Aspen, so tomorrow is strip cutting day, And, if time allows, planing those smooth as well, as I did with today's cut stock.

Christy should be home tomorrow to assist with strip cutting. Today I just ran the boards alone, which I enjoy doing. To run a long board through the saw by myself I run it half way then walk around to the other side and pull it through the rest of the way. I have an inexpensive Ryobi saw and it is rather light, which on the plus side allows me to carry it to where I need it, on the negative side, it tends to move around a bit when I get to the end of a cut and if it binds at all, it wants to come to me, which would be a bad thing.

So, cutting 2 of 2x6's into 10 pieces and then running each through the planer 4 times each = 2 hours of time. Might be more tomorrow when I run 60 odd strips through the planer.

Routing of the bead and cove will wait until strips that need to be scarfed are done, couple weeks likely and hopefully before the snow flies.

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This is how I modified the stem and station 6 to accommodate the 1 1/2" wide inner stem pieces. They are that wide at the rear and taper to 3/4". At some point in between the stripping will decide where the taper actually ends.



Cut stem pieces soaking


Today's fun with wood
The 4x4 in the photo did not get cut since my saw will only run the blade up to 3 1/4" height. The 1x on the saw deck was cut after each pass of the 2x6's and used to set up the feather boards after each cut. I just run the blade down, position the 1x against the fence and then move the feather boards into the new position. Saves from having to center the long boards on the saw to make the mods.


Milling the cut pieces
The shavings were put into a tub and I will use those to get fires going, they burn exceptionally well and will save on birch bark.
 
I'm going to start setting up the saw shortly, in the driveway out of the wind. +5 so far with +16 forecast with a south wind 40-60kph. No snow here yet, gotta live in Toronto for that to happen, ha ha.
 
Got the first set of strips ripped and planed. The 2, 2x6's coughed up 20 strips each, 13/16" x a tad under 1/4". The Aspen gave up 12 strips which are 3/4" by the same thickness. It was a tad windy out there so I parked the pick-up as a wind block but it still blew debris everywhere. Christy had the genius idea to put an empty bin behind the planer to catch shavings and I added a second to catch wind blown stuff so actually most of it was in the bins, not the driveway, which still got it's fair share.

There isn't enough to do the entire boat, but it will get me started whenever I get to that. The WRC has some amazing grain in it and the Aspen is whiter than white, which might be too white for me. I may go grab another 2x6 and just go all dark. Christy wondered if I should leave the outside clear due to the grain but I'm sticking to the plan and will be able to actually see it inside the boat while paddling.

3 1/2 hours to rip and plane. Still cheaper than ordering from Bear Mountain but I could use their machine. Feed a board in one end, get 8 finished strips out the other. Cut, planed and bead and coved. Matched sets per board. Mind you, $885 to buy enough strips to build a boat plus shipping is a tad expensive.

Too windy to steam today so the stems can soak until next Friday.





 
Alright, a rethink on the strongback was necessary due to the warpage. I could have fixed it but Christy asked... what happens if it moves during the build? Good point. So, we have strongback Rev001.

Lumber and hardware was $85. My lumberyard cannot get #1 grade lumber and they no longer sell much of anything bigger than 2x6 so the fellow was kind enough to pick through the piles to get me the straight pieces I needed. They have been outside a while but with how it is built it shouldn't move much as it dries again.

So, ladder type again, excepting a wee bit on the heavier side.

This is the warpage that occurred on the 1x6 ladder frame with 3/4" top. The chalk line is snapped from top edge to top edge of the 1x6's.


Due to an uneven floor in the shop, I decided I needed easy adjustment so went with what I call "wood nuts" with 5/16" hex bolts. Each leg has a pair. The floor is broken into 7 pieces and none are at the same height. The largest difference is straight down the middle, where the legs will overlap once work begins.




I had originally considered just putting it on horses but then figured if I am going to build it strong it should be more flexible in design. This should be much easier to level and eventually I may have to put wheels on it since it is heavier.

Verticals are 2x8 with 2x4 spacers every 12". Top is 2x10. Everything is attached with 3 1/2" Robertson head deck screws.





This is rather overkill for one boat so we might have to put it to use down the road with other builds. It is getting expensive to build though.



I need to clean up along the wall to gain space now so I can slide the Tremblay over and take over center stage in the shop. It is raining buckets today so tomorrow I am hoping to steam the inner stems.
 
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Is this progress?

Today is scarfing the little bit of Aspen I have, which would be 12 strips in total. I stole Mem's idea of how he did his gunwales and adapted it to my saw and it certainly is better than cutting every scarf by hand. The cut isn't as long as I would like it, but still cleaner than manually cutting them. I taped each pair together then cut and set aside for glueing. I used spring clamps to not put too much pressure and force the glue out. After about an hour I could un-clamp and set aside and do another set.





Also today is steaming and bending the inner stems. After soaking for 9 days (they still float), I steamed for 40 minutes each set before they bent like wet noodles around the forms. Maybe tomorrow I will pull them off, add glue and re-clamp for a couple of days. Getting closer to actually putting a strip on this. Not sure how the modified stems are going to work at this point, but I will just Make it work. Managed to get up to 210 degrees despite it being only in the 40's outside and still using the same steamer I began with 5 years ago.





 
I wasn't sure how I was going to do the outers at the time, so I just went and did the inners today. Normally I would do hardwood outers, Ash I have used in the past, but I cut some WRC and spruce today to do that. The spruce will give some grip for screws since my intention is to do stem bands as you did. I was concerned about just using cedar and having the screws grip well enough. I have the pieces cut and soaking. So next weekend, weather permitting, I should be able to steam the outers and do the bead and cove on the strips I have and begin the stripping process. So far we haven't had any snow, but the skies are filling with snow looking clouds.

Worse case scenario if the outers I have chosen don't bend, I can still strip then make new molds for the ends 3/4" bigger and bend outers later.
 
I have the forms up, although not aligned yet considering the stem forms are not yet in their proper place. Yesterday I steamed and bent the outer stems so later today I will pull them off and glue them up. The inner stems still need further planing, shaping and sanding.

I had planned to rout the bead and cove today but the weather changed to rain so maybe tomorrow with only a 30% chance in the morning. If I can get that done I am a step closer to laying out the first strips.

I still need to shape the forms, which will require removing year old Tuck Tape. Heat gun may help but if I have to I'll just cut the tape off with the belt sander when I shape them.

I need to slow down or I will be done before Spring arrives in 5 months.

 
Who needs a prospector when you have a Tremblay ...lol. Besides, the Wenonah is a really awesome canoe for big loads as long as you have a good bow paddler who can help you around corners. What you need is a Huron to go with your Tremblay...lol. BTW...we had spoken about the school auctioning off excess old canoes ...any word on that?

Maybe you should liaise with the shop teacher and have them make cedar strip prospectors for the outers?

What you reallllllllly need is a frieghter and I have a line on one. Depends on price but I am thinking it may live here soon.

Christy
 
Ok, inside stems are planed, sanded and shaped and on the forms. I don't know at this point where the actual taper will begin inside the boat so I rolled the edge pretty much all the way. Once the strips start going on I will know better. I have them clamped at the top and screwed to the form at the bottom below the sheer line. Can't be having any screw holes where it will be showing.

Forms are aligned on the strong back, shaping them will be later today or tomorrow and re-taping. I'm going to set up and try to bead and cove tomorrow despite a forecast high of 2C and if that doesn't work Sunday is supposed to be 11C. It has rained for 4 days and today we are having our first snow flurries.

The "A" on the stem is because once I shape the forms they will need to be in specific locations, so I labelled them A or B each way from Form 0. The outer stems are the same just in case there is a variation in the stem forms.

Once the router work is done I can start stripping!



 
I'm looking forward to watching you progress with your Morris.

I have no doubt you will do it justice. I think you sell your skills, talents and abilities short. I would be thrilled to own one of your builds, if I could afford it.

And, just for the record, I really hope it doesn't take 20 years 😜
 
I have no doubt you will do it justice. I think you sell your skills, talents and abilities short.

It is a defensive mechanism so I will be less disappointed if things don't go the way I envision them. It has taken my lifetime to hone that. ;)
 
So, last night, once I got the first strip on it occurred to me just how many strips it was going to take to fill in the sheer line. I pondered doing it the way Mem did, which was cool, but I thought that it would be too tedious for me, so I intend to do it the same way I did the only other stripper I have built. However, in this case the sheer line is more extreme so it will take more strips to fill it in and many will be hanging in mid air at some point. This morning I pulled the leftover cedar out of the boathouse and ripped 18 11 foot strips, planed and routed them so I have some to start stripping in the sheer line.

In the photo I have one on below the first strip and I have to go all the way down to half way through the bottom hole in the stem form. Mind you, the strips will get shorter as I go, the first one was 6 feet long. After I get the space filled in I will use a batten to mark the sheer line then cut it out with a utility knife. I have done this before which should make it a bit less tedious than my day job which may entail 40-50 hours to build and wire a single control panel.

Part of my system can be seen, which is a piece of 1/4" dowel set into the cove of the strip above and tape which pulls the strips together. I am using spring clamps to keep the strips as uniform as possible on the portions that do not fall on a form. Once I get moving the other way on the stripping the dowel/tape system works much better.

Also, considering I am using forms I did not make I had to change how I hold the strips to the forms. In my first build I had used 3/4" plywood for the forms and had routed a groove in the form which allowed using a spring clamp to hold the strips to the forms as I added. In this case, I will be using straps, some of which appear in the photo although I am short at this point. The 2x2 "wings" on the strong back are to allow adding the strapping at the appropriate angles to keep the strips flush with the forms. I am hoping this works better than having to drive finishing nails into the strips. Eventually I will have one strap per form to hold strips down.

All of this to avoid using staples. I'm sure it will drive the "fast builders" nuts.

 
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