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​Carolina Winter Escape

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I fled south at the bitter end of February, timing my escape between snowstorms. The truck had been parked atop the driveway glacier for weeks, so packing tools, gear and boat was an ordeal.



I arrived at my home base in the pine barren swamps of NC’s South River to find a more fluid situation. The culvert across the road in is blocked and flooded. I splashed through, unloaded the truck and returned in full-Farmersexual outfit; overalls and muck boots, with saws, rakes, hoes, clippers and other implements loaded into the Gator. With a fair tasty beer.



I gave up four times trying to unplug that dang culvert. And went back 5 times. I got a little drainage going, but the top of the culvert was still 4 feet underwater. I could just barely hook some obstructing piece of metal debris lodged at the culvert opening, which itself took a while to even find, but I couldn’t get the obstruction near the surface.



OK, I gave up five times. That last time I was bushed, utterly defeated and a good 10 steps back to the Gator when…it flushed.

This end of the culvert had been a dribble.



Too freaking cool. I can sit and spend a whole day watching the tide go in and out. Might as well sit a spell and watch the swamp drain. Unlike the tides I may never get that opportunity again. That blocked culvert had flooded and backwatered 50 acres and took a long time to drain. Days.



Entryway passable there followed a few weeks of, well, playing on the farm if you will, with the usual late night (for me that is any time after dark) shenanigans in the shop. The traditional scrap wood birdhouse, puzzled together and constructed using angle-cut scrap wood and zero new saw cuts, except the entry hole. This time even the entry hole was there. My friend Dave never threw away even a tiny scrap of wood, as the lumber building will attest.



Into my farmhand week paddling pal NC Willy came by for a visit and dueling Tacoma sleepover, and we spent some time in the trees.

Spade bit circle drilled through the bark and cambium.



Chiseled oval and inlaid with a semi-precious cabochon.



Add a hose clamp and a little rubber stopper spacer, so the tree has room to grow a natural bezel around the stone, and the growth stresses don’t crack the agate.



Wait a year or three, remove the hose clamp, and wait a few more years. Dig it up, roots and all (the root structure is the coolest part). Wait a few years while it dries. Strip the bark, shape and sand it into whatever it wants to be – walking stick, sculpture, pipe bowl. Prettiest gear shift knob ever on 20 year’s worth of manual transmissions.

Makes for a nice multi-year project.

Beyond draining swamps. constructing scrap wood puzzles and sticking and stoning - in various definitions – there was plumbing, electrical and fence to work to attend to, and betwixt and between farm work even some canoe outfitting. It had for months been too cold at home to do much boatwork, so I brought some with me. Gawd bless a well equipped shop with ample carport space.



A word on the early March weather in eastern NC. In the space of three days I used three different sleeping bags, a zero degree Wiggys, a 20 F down and a 30/50 down flip. It went from dang cold at night



To shorts and tee shirt weather in 3 days.

But, eventually, you can’t keep me down on Maggies Farm no more. Time to pack up gear and plan a trip.



Paddle out to Hammocks Beach State Park/Bear Island once again. Out to one of my favorite paddle-in sites in the mid-Atlantic. The shady and wind protected live oak grove at site #12.



There is nothing handier for tent and pole containment than the full sized wind chair. Stakes in the cup holders, poles and tent body out of the sand.



With my abode and day hammock erected it was time for a late breakfast. I had intended to paddle in to Bear Island a week earlier with fortuitous tidal timing, and came in non-stop as a soon as the park opened. Despite that timing I faced the reverse, and coming out to the island against the tide was a work out. I’m hungry.

The new water-heater foil pouch is the insulation freeze-dry meal bomb. Wrapping group cooking pots in that stuff is invaluable in keeping a meal warm, but I don’t cook for more than me. I chowed down on a caloric breakfast burrito and Starbucks Via coffee as I watch the tide change and the early Atlantic flyway migration pass through. A pricey repast, but I’m worth it, and so is the peculiar moon and tide timing.



I tried the DIY rudder briefly on the way in, but really didn’t need it going against the tide and had no sailing breeze to push me off shore. Being increasingly tidal backwards I had to wade the canoe across sandbars for the last 100 yards. There is a new moon coming and some big tides. Cool beans, big tides are fun to watch.

I do appreciate the shade and wind shelter of site #12, but the ocean view from the #13 high in the dunes is amazing and in buggy conditions that high and windy exposure might be appreciated.



There followed some of the laziest days ever, laying about in the day hammock, reading books (plural), watching the birdlife in the dense oak branches above me, paddling the remainder of the inland channel and (very shallow) “lake” out to the dozen beachfront paddle in sites.



The beach. Yawn. Screw the boring beach, give me the changeable bayside. Tide going in and out, landscape radically changing, more critters, shade, sun, wind protection and a maritime forest island a short day paddle away.

Add to that a comfy hammock, comfy chair, comfy tent and zero people and some days I didn’t move more than 100 yards from camp. Barrier islands are a wonderful place to sit and let it all come to you.

I had booked site #12 for 5 days ($13 a night), Monday through Friday, even though I had seen a long range forecast for a fugly Thursday afternoon, continuing through all of Friday. I had hopes that might change more favorably.

It didn’t. Thursday dawned with a cloudy portent of rain, and the weather radio predicted worse as the day went on.

I do not like packing up wet, and packing up wet with a hard driving rain splattering sand up onto the sides of everything from tent to packs is just a freaking mess. A mess in the canoe, a mess in the truck, a mess in the gear room at home when everything comes out and be hung to dry.

I packed up while it was still dry, knowing that no matter how I shook the dice I was screwed tidally. I’d like to ride the tide back in with sufficient water depth, maybe catch the middle twelfths for a free ride, but the next high tide is at 7pm. They lock the park gates at 6pm.

Plan B is to paddle out towards dusk with a dry packed camp and surreptitiously commando sleep in the back of the truck ‘til the gates open again at 8am.

Around 10am as the skies got greyer, I was packed up and decided it was time to go. Time to go, dead into the teeth of the outgoing tide. The outgoing new moon tide.

I am only a partial dipshit. I knew that outrushing water would be a tough slog, and that the shallows (and getting shallower) would not afford much paddle purchase. But I had a nice steady 10 mph breeze off the ocean.

Up the Spirit Sail, down the rudder (which, though effective, needs some tweaking) and oh-heck-yeah, that’s the only way to travel, in the shallows or against the tide and especially both. What would have been a tough battle out became mostly a sit and steer.

Paddled out, racked and packed just as the first rain began to spatter down. Oh heck yeah #2, everything stored in the truck dry and sand free.

I thought that such wise decision making deserved a reward, so I stopped off at Saigon Sam’s just outside the Camp Lejune main gate for a military surplus treat and met Sam himself. Got me a nice desert camo fatigue jacket.

http://www.saigonsamsmilitary.com/

Thus passed another month of eastern NC joy, putzing around the inland swamp rivers and coast.

I highly recommend eastern NC for late winter/early spring peregrinations. The NC State Park system does some paddler’s parks very well – Hammocks Beach, Merchants Millpond, Lumber River – and in the shoulder seasons the locals think it is still winter.
 
Great to see you having fun. I just got back from the Cape Lookout area. Camping in horse crap is not for me.
 
What a nice trip to blow away the snowy doldrums. Little bit of yard work, little bit of shop work; all rewarded with a little bit of shipwrecked time on the edge of the world. Well, it felt like that to me, and it felt good. Thanks Mike.
Now you've got me dreaming of OBX.
 
Nice! Can I assume a Prothonotary is the target spices for the nestbox? In addition, how many IPA's dose it take to watch 50 acres of backwater drain?

Thanks for reporting.
 
how many IPA's dose it take to watch 50 acres of backwater drain?

Over the course of a couple days, quite a few doses of IPA (or Black and Tan). It is cold out when a high alcohol IPA pushes out a dang morning popsicle

Watching the swamped areas drain was just way freaking cool. The water is flowing across the road and into the adjoining woods …the flow is slowing….stopping…now draining back the other way.

Slowly, very slowly hummocks and pine straw mounds begin to emerge from the forest. Sit in the chair, drink a beers, watch the terrain change all around me. One of the best strange moments of the trip.

The property adjoins the South River, which was way above flood stage, the highest I’ve seen it, 15’ on the corresponding Black at Tomahawk gauge.

That place is dang near my idea of heaven. The South River is just a short Gator trip down a private dirt road through the woods, and there are Wildlife Boating access areas on the Black a 15 minute drive, pick-em north or south. Those two rivers alone offer 150+ miles of prime (and mostly little visited) blackwater river, albeit best suited for day paddling.

For canoe camping the Waccamaw is a 40 minute drive, the Lumber an hour and change, Hammocks Beach two hours (and two turns) east and Merchants Millpond a worthwhile detour en route home.

Add to that daytrip oddities like Pocosin Ponds and noteworthy small swamps unlogged and little disturbed for 100 years. I have never understood why the astounding variety of nearby paddling possibilities below the Pamlico Sound doesn’t attract more paddlers to that low population density region.

I’ve been paddling thereabouts a couple times a year since, um, dang, at least the early 90’s, and I still have places on my paddling wish list an hour’s drive away.

All that good canoeing water is one attraction. Another is that I get to wear out a pair of leather work gloves every trip. The right thumb, pointer and index finger are always the first to go. Anybody want to buy a box of almost pristine left hand work gloves?
 
Another epic report! I really enjoy these reports from places I've never been, and probably never will get too. I'm looking forward to a Part 2 of the "Adventures of the Canyon Fairies"!
 
That sounds like a down right enjoyable time, Mike. The SE is the only part of the country I haven't traveled to. Never had much desire after heading east a few times but reading things like this makes me think it might not be so bad if you knew where to go, or not to go.

Alan
 
Another epic report! I really enjoy these reports from places I've never been, and probably never will get too. I'm looking forward to a Part 2 of the "Adventures of the Canyon Fairies"!

If you ever find yourself heading snowbird south along the eastern seaboard that part of rural NC is worth investigating.

No western trip in current cogitation for this spring. Maybe next fall or winter. The cabin in the Chiricahuas still needs work, and the Canyon Fairies have been thinking about an off-season Lake Powell trip in decked boats.

The SE is the only part of the country I haven't traveled to. Never had much desire after heading east a few times but reading things like this makes me think it might not be so bad if you knew where to go, or not to go.

That isn’t megalopolis east. I used to say south of Richmond, but now it’s more like south of Raliegh, or at least south of the research triangle.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Research_Triangle

From there down the compass needle to dang near Jacksonville FL offer areas of low-ish population density inland and lots of good and varied paddling water. The shoulder seasons come late and start early there.
 
Nice! Can I assume a Prothonotary is the target spices for the nestbox?

I am ashamed to admit I do not know. My late friend who ran the place built many birdhouses, all using a 1 ½” hole saw. Apparently the same 1 ½” hole saw for his entire life. This is the man who built an entire cabin in the Chiricahuas with one Skil Saw blade, which he was still using 20 year later.

His hole saw wouldn’t cut butter, so I bought him a new one in the same size (I had replaced his Skil saw blades years ago).

Some of the nest box holes were existing, knot holes and the like and the rest are 1 ½”, which is, or was, typical for bluebird boxes. And even that is controversial.

http://audubon-omaha.org/bbbox/nabs/mp1.htm

Prothonotary nest boxes usually call for a slightly smaller hole.

http://beautyofbirds.com/prothonotarywarblernestingbox.html
 
Hole size in nesting boxes is more about the exclusion of a larger competitor than the preferences of the target species. An entrance hole that does not exceed 1.5 inches is quite effective at blocking Sturnus vulgaris, and providing vacancy for anything smaller. 1½" is a good choice for all of the small desirables. I have adopted the Dick Peterson entrance design for Eastern Bluebirds and have elongated my hole to 2.25 X 1.325.

From what you've told us about the reserve, I would think it to be a haven for the Prothonotary Warbler, which has a preference for swamps and periodically flooded areas.
 
From what you've told us about the reserve, I would think it to be a haven for the Prothonotary Warbler, which has a preference for swamps and periodically flooded areas.

And how. I did a spring paddle trip on the South with some birder friends a few years ago during the peak of the Prothonotary migration that went from warbler excitement to “Meh, more Prothonotary” in a few miles.

The Reserve, like the Chiricahua cabin, exist where they do because those places are little populated and well endowed with peculiar mixes of flora and fauna.

I could do without the chiggers, but if I’m working in the woods, field, weeds or dirt down south there’s little prevention and no remedy.
 
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