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But, this is free (I already have a ton of fiberglass, resin, paint, un-used gunwales, etc. I am sure I could get it to work; I am more curious what I am not thinking about. Bracing, seating, etc. And, more importantly, what I can do to help ensure I actually like the finished product.

Kind of my thoughts. In order for me to sell it, I would need to paint it, re-attach the gunwales, build and attach seats, and then would maybe get as much for it as I would have invested. So...it will either just sit on the side of my barn, get thrown in the trash, or I can play with it.

At it's widest, it is narrower than the fishing kayak I was debating earlier this year. What are the general measurements for a decent solo canoe?

Can you explain what you mean by this please?

I have a second old (really old) fiberglass canoe. From what I can tell, it is a Bee Craft built in the mid-70s. Construction is the thick fiberglass woven matting with chop glass blown on top to smooth it out. It lived a hard life at a canoe rental company until I liberated it in '98. The...

Maybe 20-hours of work, $40 in paint, rivets, and wood...and nearly done...

Got the bottom painted and getting ready to tape off for the top. Any advice on how to keep the sides even? Would hate to have the two-tone off between the port and starboard sides.

Seat design. Light and should accept the seat back my wife likes.

Whew...I thought I was going to have to change citizenship or something.

Oh, thwarts. I would like “handles” on each end (about 1foot in). Then I know a center yoke. I was thinking mine additional rear thwart. I was hoping to avoid a front thwart because I would like to sit there when solo... Would the canoe be fine with a yoke, two handles, and one thwart?

Ok...do canoe colors “mean” something? I was going to use red because that was the color it was before and if there are areas I couldn’t get all the way down and I scratched the boat it wouldn’t show as much. Thanks for those measurements. That will work perfectly.

Overall length is 15 foot.

I would normally agree; but, in this case, the seats were 2x12 boards that were bolted through the hull right under the PVC pipe gunwales. I am fairly certain they were not the original locations. Both seats were centered between the end and center of each side...

Any easy advice for front/rear seat placement? I know there are all kinds of formulas etc. I am just trying to find a general idea for a "fits most cases" placement.

I pulled out the scales today. After two coats of resin, the hull is just shy of 60# (apparently I’m not that good at guessing weight). It still feels considerably lighter than my in-laws Royalex canoe and my cousins aluminum canoe. It even feels lighter than the kayaks my friend and I took out...

I spent a lot more time sanding today...and I am thinking you guys are right about those skid plates...they are certainly added by a previous owner. I also think that the bottom of the hull was coated by a previous owner. The bottom seems like glass fabric and it seems like he used an extra...

Not sure what else I can say. I have some of the pits (with a key to shoe size). I show the fiberglass skids. They are smooth and not raised so I am assuming they are original to the canoe. I got the canoe from a lady that found it behind her garage when she moved in but had PVC gunwales...

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I have finally gotten all the pieces and have been sanding for a couple days. This is an older canoe of unknown make. It is incredibly light and I have a feeling may be kevlar. How do I tell? I know it has a layer of fiberglass sheet all along the bottom (kind of like a skid plate) and it...

Well, that is excellent to know; considering my gunnels are new from Old Town, I would assume they have the aluminum insert you are talking about. That said, my vinyl decks are all cracked and I threw them out. I thought it would be an easy thing to just buy new ones. However, I don't know...