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Nicely done ! Enjoy ! Jim

Thanks clemency, for the video share ! I've never been to Canoecopia, and this was a good substitute ! Jim

Just a note. I spaced the leading edge, of the seats on all my solos, regardless of the hull length, or symmetry, at 5-6" aft of center. 10" aft of center, seemed too far back, when paddling empty. You can adjust with weight if you need to. Nice thing about Aluminum gunnels ? No finish...

WOW ! Anyone that has ever, or even Dreamt of such a trip ? Owes it to themselves to watch Kevin's Journey ! It's a long one, I watched parts of it at night, before bed. Out of 5 Stars, I give 10 ! Enjoy ! Kevin Wild's 42 day Solo canoe trip Jim

That is a great weight ! Jim

When I first saw this method? I though he was bead and coving strips, not planning strips. I only use it to bead and cove strips. I still do. Using the Skilsaw method of cutting strips, there is no need to plane the strips. They come out uniform enough, that planning is not necessary. Jim

Yes ! Running your strips between the fence and the bit !, for one eliminates the need to plane your planks. The Router does that for you, when you bead and cove. Jim

Interesting about the overlaps not being visible. So maybe when you apply Bias strips to the stems, you might want to bury them as well ? In my experience, feathering overlaps makes them totally invisible. I defy anyone to find the edges of my extra layer over the football. I have on just a...

I've Preached the benefits of a Skilsaw, with a fence clamped to the base, to cut strips. I still believe, its the best way to cut strips from wide planks. Glad to see you too have made it work ! You will learn from every hull you build. Gaining from your experience, as I did. Extra thin...

Boy Scout camp. 1964.

A concern I have with Aluminum gunnels on strippers, is the possibility of rot. I would want to make sure water isn't trapped between the hull, and the gunnels. I would suspect the rivet holes, to be the first place for rot. The top of the shearline would also be a concern. I've always glued...

Looks Great ! You should be ready by Spring time ! Jim

I like the strap idea ! But there are flaws with everything. Adding rows of strips, even if you placed 5 strips, in ready to glue formation. After you have those 5 in place, you would need to loosen the straps, to add more rows. What is done to hold the strips together, between the forms ...

I found glassing in the middle of Winter, was a pain. Nothing like a July glass job. Cold and epoxy don't mix. How warm was your shop ? Jim

Nick Schade has a good repair video. Hull Repair Jim

I found the thread, on how I build my Flotation chambers. It's in my Nokomis build thread. Sorry for the Photobucket interference ! Direct link to page #6 which discusses the float tanks https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/nokomis-build.37923/page-6 Jim

OK Bulkheads or not ? Stripp[ers will float, when filled with water. push down on them with little pressure. They will sink, and take a long time to return to the surface. I have actually tried this. Flotation chambers will bring the hull to the surface almost immediately. If you plan a...

Yup. Early on, a guy climbed into a Wee Lassee I built. Heard the crack also. I double layer the bottoms of all my strippers. To me ? the added durability is worth it. As far as hanging the seat from the gunnels ? All but a few Wee Lassee's? I have hung all mine from the gunnels, and never a...

I tilt my hulls as you did. Makes it so much easier to get at the tumblehome, and actually seeing what you are doing. Carpeted saddle stands work great for that. Looks like you have the sanding part down ! Jim

We all differ in our opinions, and I respect that. In my personal experience, and the methods I've used ? Staples are faster, and do a better job, at keeping the strips close to the hull. I have gone mostly stapless on several builds. I always relying on a few staples, in the bilge area, or...