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I simply use a beveled scrap strip, to tuck in one side, then the other. Wear good gloves ( Nitrile ). Important to wet the cloth in the stems, but let them go until you are finished with the inner hull glassing. Then go back and tuck everything in place. If you botch it up ? It's easy to...

Three dams have been removed on the DesMoines. One South of Humboldt ( Corn Belt ) Two in Fort Dodge. No more drownings from those dams. Jim

Trick to seal Staple holes ! After applying seal coat, wait an hour, and with a small brush, paint over the staple holes, with epoxy. The second coating really seals them. Jim

Funny Cruiser, you should mention Outgassing. A very important topic !!! Outgassing will still occur, even with a seal coat. It maybe reduced, but still a problem! So here is the deal. Out gassing is air trapped in the wood. and in the joints, between the strips. As the applied resin...

Seal coat or not ? Which actually requires the least amount of resin ? First off I'm confused at how much resin they sent you ! MAS, is a 2 to 1 mix ratio, If I'm not mistaken.( At Least the last time I used it ). 1.5 gal., of resin, and a 1 gal hardener, doesn't add up.. Back to seal...

Thanks Gamma Overlapping, the cloth, first one side, then the other. That's all I've ever done. That's all that is needed., unless you have an open area, without cloth. Remember the strips are beveled, with a wide face, and glued together. With bead and cove ? They are also slightly...

Thanks Mem Ha ! I did entertain the motor idea, but then I would have needed to rig a steering system, from the seat. I did clamp an electric trolling motor on, just to see what it looked like. Maybe someday, I will build as you did, a dedicated, square stern ! I've been intrigued with...

While we share a lot here, and we all have our own opinions. It's good to collect as much info as possible, and then you have to make your own choices. We all respect that ! So here is one of my build threads, that show cases, most of my methods. Pearl Jim

As promised. I had time this AM, to set up the digital scale. The Bob Tail, weighs in at 45# even. That is 9# heavier, than the Kevlar copy ( 36# ), that has aluminum gunnels, plastic end caps, flotation chambers, and the same seat design.

The beauty of this splice ? You just keep on stripping. No need to wait for glue to dry.

I have yet to build a canoe with stems. To me ? A lot of extra work, for no real benefit. I started building Stemless, as the Minnesota builders that I learned from, also built Stemless. As far as strength ? Over the years I have had three canoes come off my truck racks. One was crushed...

WoodsNWaters A great kit. to start with. A Big Plus, is the strips are Bead and Coved. Makes assembly a lot easier. Will you build in the Basement ? Dust will be your biggest enemy. Does the kit include stems ? As others have said 42# is light. I'm repairing a tandem stripper right...

I rarely shift side to side. My Knees won't allow me to kneel. Guess I'll have to find someone that does. I do shift fore and aft, to trim the canoe, when loaded with gear. This works for that. The raised webbing prevents the front edge from biting into my legs. My seats are wider...

Sorry for the very late response ! I missed your post somehow. No. It would definitely keep you in one place. I wanted to make it more comfortable, for when I swift my weight fore and af, to obtain better trim. I've spent time in the BWCA, and a few full days here locally, on the rivers. I'm...

As soon as the three coats of Watco dry ( Likely a month ) I'll get a scale on it. 3/16" strips. 4 oz S-glass. No Flotation. ( Big mistake! ). Bottom is double layered by adding 6 oz E-glass to about the 3" waterline. Jim

Here are a few pics of my latest build. The Bruce Kunz designed 38 Spl. With a Bobbed tail. I Bobbed the tail, to eliminate an extra splice, in the strips. Here are the Scissor stands, I made to lift the canoe, so I can apply Watco, without the need to mask anything. They also eliminate...

Looks great on the water too ! Fun to test a new design ! Jim

A Japanese Saw Rasp, is by far your best tool, combared to a Surform rasp. It has a course and fine side. Leaves a much smoother finish when done. I use the rasp, without the attachable handle. You can also save a few bucks ordering without the handle. My preference. SawRasp Jim

Besides a clear plank, the main thing that concerns me, is that my strips were as close as possible to being Quarter sawn. So selection of planks, I look for Flat grain, or slash cut. Quarter sawn strips machine the best. They are stiffer, and sand more even. I used to just use a ROS...

It also depends on the epoxy you are using. I use RAKA 127 resin, and 350 Non blushing hardener. System Three's, Clear Coat, however, is a very good epoxy, is thinner. May require up to 5 fill coats, in My experience. What epoxy, are you using ? Jim