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Yes, all food was in Bear Vaults. He walked right by them, about 10 yds away, never disturbed them at all. Must have swam to the campsite, as Beaver were going crazy, slapping their tails ! that was my first clue something was around. Jim

I hold this site up as the top Canoe Building site ! CanoeCraft forum, had been very good also, but has since gone under. Yes, the diversity is a big plus here! Keep up the fine work guys ! Where else can you find Canoe Building threads ? Jim

Great score on the strips. Oh, if you lived close to me ? I've got some good deals on canoe stuff ! As for the Runs ? Yeah, we've all been down the road to dealing with runs. Timing ! Get them, while the epoxy is still soft. A Carbide paint scraper is your best friend ! Hoping you added...

That is common for the hull, to pull away from the forms at the shearline. I staple it back in place, just very near the edge. I glass over it. Later I pull the staple through the glass. One could use hot melt glue also. Jim

I confess I haven't followed this thread. But Fear is a necessary evil. It keeps our senses sharp. So embrace fear as it keeps us alive. Sorry, if it sounded a little like a Chinese proverb ! Jim

I started with System Three. Agree it is a good epoxy. At the time, it was very reasonably priced. They sold out, and the price went way up. I used their Clear Coat epoxy. It was thin, and required two extra fill coats. A great wetout epoxy though. Not the best for fill coats. After contacting...

I'm refering to fill coats. Wetting out the cloth is not a problem. It's the fill coats I'm referring to. Sorry for my lack of description. Jim

Any runs waiting that long between fill coats ? Applying while the previous coat is still tacky, greatly reduces runs. Jim

This is not an endorsement ! Just an option for whose wishing to add a seat, or to determine the best location for a seat, in say, a cedar strip solo canoe. I often see questions, on where to best place a seat in a solo canoe. This seat would work to determine just that. Spring Creek canoe...

A worry about Tack rags, is they may lay down residue. All I've ever done was vacuum. No problems. Good Luck! Makes me wish I was building another hull ! Jim

No water is needed. A vacuum does just fine. A Tack cloth could introduce contaminates. Now that you have waited. Yes sand. Wear a good dust mask to save your health. Again, no water or tack cloth. Vacuum yes. Looking forward to hear and see the results ! Jim

Have always wanted to build one of these ! Have watched many of the Cape Falcon videos. Jim PS. I like the color !

I've dealt with CC Outfitters for years. I give them high marks ! A call to them, would be my best advice. They are people in the know. Jim

Sanding creates dust. Consider scraping. You can scrape after the epoxy cures, say 12 hrs. but sanding you want to wait, until full cure. Uncured epoxy in the lings is not good. Sounds like a good plan for you epoxy schedule. Jim

A Night time visitor at my camp, this Fall. He didn't get anything to eat!

A tip I often share, when applying epoxy. Check your seal coat, before laying down the cloth. Anything on the surface, that you can feel, such as dust imbedded in the epoxy, must be removed. I Scrape with a razor blade, don't sand. If left, those particles will lift the cloth away from the...

Yes the Bead and cove requires more space. I simply do it outside. I do it in the driveway, and sweep up the dust. They go around the outside of the house for bug deterrence. Another benefit ! Ha ! Good luck in what ever way you choose! The process is fun, especially when you see the hull...

Did you scar up the tape on the forms, with the bevel? Did your strips slip out of alignment at all ? I'll throw in the ease of butt joining strips, is much easier with bead and coved strips. Bead and coving your strips, solves, these issues, as well as leaving far less glue squeeze out...

A Big THANKS to Glenn! Canotripping.net is by far the Best ! I didn't need AI to tell me that ! Thanks ! Jim

Bead and coving 1/4" thick strips, doesn't take much for a router. It is the best way to go ! A 7 1/4" Skilsaw, and a router will save you money, and time. Actually a lot of extra sanding too. I started with a Skilsaw, cause I couldn't afford a table saw. In reality ? The Skilsaw is a far...