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TPG, I think only the top couple of inches of stem will be exposed after I put in the float tanks. Just trying to do what I can to keep the weight down but yes that's a crappy spot to work in. As for the S glass over dark wood here's an example of a couple of layers over walnut. Up close you...

My experience with the S glass is that it shows more "silver fleck" as well as the weave when you get up close. Also when using multiple layers it shows a fair bit more than E glass. Clear enough though and fine for our build purposes as Cruiser said. It does matter on the dark woods where...

That is a Veritas miniature shoulder plane. I bought it to use with Nick Schade's Robo-bevel but I have been using it a lot since Scratchypants suggested using it outside of the Robo-bevel. It's a pretty handy little tool for slow wood removal. It can work in a concave surface providing it's...

I have a question about glassing if anyone's done this. I'd like to lay a 5' piece of glass into the cockpit and a little in the stems. Put it in with a squeegee and no fill coat. Leave it overnight or longer, rough sand for mechanical bond, vacuum then do a full length layer of glass over...

Welcome Farback, good luck with your build. I planed down the stern stem today then did a little grinding with a burr and a stone. I want to round out the stems so the glass lays in there nicely without me having to add an epoxy fillet joint. It will take a little more work yet.

I only got a little done today. I had to fix our snowblower since no one likes shoveling. I planed down the bow stem and really should have started in the stern. Get it figured it out in a less obvious spot. I started with my 6" plane but that made a few contact lines in the cedar. I...

I really hope so Jim. Scraping went well, the epoxy was still pretty green so shaved easily. When I was unscrewing everything to flip the boat over I discovered that I slopped epoxy right into a 3" screw head. The boat turned over well, a few forms fell out. The center ones stayed so I think...

I should have added that it looked a lot worse when I first applied it. I used my gloved hand like a squeegee and forced out as much of the grey air trapped epoxy as I could. I then added fresh over top and carefully worked it in. This helped a lot in removing the grey but it left it looking...

I put two layers of bias cut s glass on the stems. This didn't turn out so great colour wise. S glass doesn't seem to wet out as clear as E glass plus I got some air in there despite trying not to. Durability has a cost I suppose. I'll go scrape off what I can of the excess while it's still...

Thank you for taking the time to put all this together. Your brain is clearly wired for writing instructions. I always appreciated the Stuff Rob Macks posted on the Kayak forum. This thread makes me feel a little guilty not including more details in my thread. I'm also going to try stemless...

I lucked out and scored a good deal on some 18' bead and cove cedar strips. The coves aren't in the best of shape but the price was good for 2 boats worth and only a few blocks away from home. When I had the garage door open with the natural light I could see I didn't do as good of job on the...

Once it cures I'll do the inside and then see how it feels. I'm going to do a full 6oz layer inside plus an additional 5 foot layer in the cockpit area. If it's still too flexible I'll add a layer on the exterior football once I level sand the outside. I'll be putting bias cut S glass on the...

Yesterday as I was getting ready to lay the glass out I noticed that the hull had flared a little at the bottom. I wrapped cam buckle straps around the hull and hot glued the inside to the forms to keep the proper shape when glassed. I rolled out the Hexcel 4533 6oz x 60” the night before and...

That sounds pretty nice having the extended time for a chemical bond. I just re-stocked with 105/207 for upcoming projects though so it would be a while before I have the opportunity to try anything new.

I ended up working a couple of extra days. I finished sanding the seal coat today then vacuumed everything twice. I followed that up with a warm water wash/dry. I turned up the heat in there and will tack cloth it tomorrow afternoon before laying the glass on there to relax overnight. Aiming...

No glassing today, got called to work. Maybe Sunday.

The warm water wipe down is just to remove any potential amine blush. I do this before I start sanding as I've read you'll sand/mix it in if there's any there. The tack cloths I have are sealed in packages and leave no lint. Even after scrubbing at it twice with the vacuum the tack cloth...

My solo canoe is 32" at it's widest with a fair bit of tumblehome. I'm just under 6'2. At first I though 260cm was good but after spending some time using a high angle lightweight 250cm I got used to it. My spare is also high angle and adjustable 240-260cm. Playing around 255cm feels pretty...

My plan is to wait a few more days to sand. Then I'll give it a wash first with water cloth then a gentle sand again with 180 grit on the log board and a little with the RO plus some by hand. This will be followed but a couple passes with the vacuum, another water wet wipe followed by a tack...

Thanks for the kind words guys. I want to let it cure for a few days before gently sanding it. I want to be really careful not to get any dust trapped in green epoxy so I'll wait on sanding. I'll need 12-13 hours for 3 coats of West Systems 105/207 so it will likely be the 14th for glass...