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Another benefit. The herringbone method, makes it easier to keep the strips tight to the hull, giving you a true to the form shape. Canoe designers, use this method for that reason.

I've always built with WRC. Maybe it has to do with the wood you are using ? If you have Faired your forms, the strips should lay flat. It's not the hull design, as many have been built using these designs. It's likely the wood you are using. Too stiff to bend ? Many Builders us a...

Did that strip warp after you glued it into place ? I've never had that happen on any of my Stemless hulls. I start stripping in the middle of the canoe, and work towards the ends. Where do you start stripping from ? Jim

The Jimmie clamps are like an extra hand, I use them to hold the strip in place, while I work clamping strips to the forms. . I still like working with the thicker 1/4" strips, better than 3/16" strips ! Jim

I have the 3/16" bits, but opted for the 1/4". There is enough cove with the 1/4" bits, to hold the strip in place, and to me ? That's what 's important.

At 220+#, I prefer a longer canoe, for tripping. 15.5' - 16'. For the biggest reason, speed. If you don't need to keep up with a group of tandems ? And prefer a lighter Portage load, a shorter hull would be fine. Fishing would be easier too with a shorter hull. Lastly if the shorter hull has...

Back in the mid 90's, Mid West Mountaineering, at one of their Spring Events, in St Paul Minn. Had David Youst there, and he gave a nice seminar on how he designed canoes. At that time, Ted Bell had the Magic, that was designed by David Youst. One of the best solos out there. I absorbed as...

These bungees adjust quite well ! Quick and easy. I didn't take a lot of pics at the time, one last one.

Great Camera work Brian. Your strip clamping method is pretty elaborate, but effective. These bungee cord straps are the Brain Child, of another Jim Dodd . They work great. Both wood blocks hook on the Shear strip, the one with the slanted hole drilled in it, is adjustable, and looks by...

I really like your idea with the plywood jig ! Clever way to keep the strips tight to the forms, in the Tumblehome area ! I would definitely use it, but this time, I'm going back to staples . I'll use the Jimmie clamps, between the forms, so I guess, I'm reducing the staples at least. You...

Yup ! That might be a real Challenge to Strip !

Great Job Guys ! Standing the test of Time ! Many sites have gone by the way side. Glad Canoetripping.net is going soo good ! Jim

By the looks of your stand, you need just as much space,as simply tilting your strong back. Adding some weight to the legs to offset the weight of the forms and strips. Looks like you are getting there. Good luck with your Radiation Treatment ! Jim

Sorry For mixing this in with Gamma 1214's Thread ! But looking at the form spacing, and comparing it to a friend's build. My friend started with the original Kunz designed 38. He forgot about the 12.5" form spacing. Instead went with the 12" spacing as used in most designs. We Nick named it...

Rotisserie ! Now we are Talking ! The first one I saw was in Wisconsin. Martin Van, a professional canoe builder, had one. That was my inspiration for Tilting my strongbacks. He was able to get a full 90 degree rotation. Using Plastic cement, that came as a powder, and mixed with water, was...

After looking at your pics a little closer ? I wonder how much rocker you are going with ? It almost reminds me of the rocker on a Prospector. Jim

Nice ! Brian A great foundation ! Could you clamp a couple of scrap strips to your stem forms, to verify alignment ? Jim

After you have your forms set, just for kicks and giggles, stretch some Fish line, from stem to stem, a check the trueness of your forms. Jim

In my experience, I repositioned the forms by adjusting the cleats and forms, to make things Fair. Now that you have the forms in place, You need to insure your stem forms are perfectly vertical, or at least aligned with each other. This Is a trick I learned from the MCA Builders book. Here...

Glad you made the Uniwhale work ! My fear of the Uniwhale, would be it splitting ,at the 1/4" thick area, between the inwhale and out whale, while I was wrestling it into place saturated with Thickened epoxy. Another thing the Uniwhale doesn't allow for Scuppers. I got to have scuppers...