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Boy Scout camp. 1964.

A concern I have with Aluminum gunnels on strippers, is the possibility of rot. I would want to make sure water isn't trapped between the hull, and the gunnels. I would suspect the rivet holes, to be the first place for rot. The top of the shearline would also be a concern. I've always glued...

Looks Great ! You should be ready by Spring time ! Jim

I like the strap idea ! But there are flaws with everything. Adding rows of strips, even if you placed 5 strips, in ready to glue formation. After you have those 5 in place, you would need to loosen the straps, to add more rows. What is done to hold the strips together, between the forms ...

I found glassing in the middle of Winter, was a pain. Nothing like a July glass job. Cold and epoxy don't mix. How warm was your shop ? Jim

Nick Schade has a good repair video. Hull Repair Jim

I found the thread, on how I build my Flotation chambers. It's in my Nokomis build thread. Sorry for the Photobucket interference ! Direct link to page #6 which discusses the float tanks https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/nokomis-build.37923/page-6 Jim

OK Bulkheads or not ? Stripp[ers will float, when filled with water. push down on them with little pressure. They will sink, and take a long time to return to the surface. I have actually tried this. Flotation chambers will bring the hull to the surface almost immediately. If you plan a...

Yup. Early on, a guy climbed into a Wee Lassee I built. Heard the crack also. I double layer the bottoms of all my strippers. To me ? the added durability is worth it. As far as hanging the seat from the gunnels ? All but a few Wee Lassee's? I have hung all mine from the gunnels, and never a...

I tilt my hulls as you did. Makes it so much easier to get at the tumblehome, and actually seeing what you are doing. Carpeted saddle stands work great for that. Looks like you have the sanding part down ! Jim

We all differ in our opinions, and I respect that. In my personal experience, and the methods I've used ? Staples are faster, and do a better job, at keeping the strips close to the hull. I have gone mostly stapless on several builds. I always relying on a few staples, in the bilge area, or...

Mine Too ! No faster way, and they keep the strips true to the forms better than clamping. The waiting for the glue to dry, with clamping systems, is too time consuming, for little benefit. All the mold builders use staples, when they make plugs, for production molds. Jim

Yes. The spring clamps I buy are described as 2" size. Oh Yes ! The Other Jim Dodd, came up with a very slick method using bungee cord and two simply cut wood blocks. When Jim and I first found each other ? We had a blast discussing our building methods The Other Jim, does superb work ! I'm...

I found the Bit Nick Schade, uses for bead and coving 3/16 thick strips. This bit is a 3/32" multi coving bit, available from Magnate. Look for #6045 Magnate The beading bit is in my previous post. I hope this isn't too confusing ! The coving bit was harder to find. Jim

Another pic of Dragon's Teeth in action. I hope a better pic. These I painted red. Dragon's teeth.

Those Jimmy clamps are so handy ! Another clamping system, is the "Dragon Teeth". They are used to hold the outwhales to the deck area, without fasteners. Used exclusively when you glue outwhales on. A pic, I hope that gives you enough information, so you can see how they work. Dragon's...

Always nerve racking when you flip that hull. Looks great. Jim

It may look terrible to you now, but once sanded, and varnished. You will have a hard time seeing it. Jim

3/32" beading bit The coving, or flute bit is available. I just lost the link. It's out there, you just need to search a little. Jim

I would go with the 1/4" , unless you can plane them to 3/16," and get the proper bits. I used 1/4" bits, on 3/16" strips for my last two hulls. They worked fine. Yes, the edges were a little ragged, but when I was done sanding the hull ? They were fine. So looking for bits, I found Nick...