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Fantastic!

People like metric measurements because it makes them feel taller, lighter, and faster. :LOL:

Wow, that's really nice - and a very reasonable price!

I sure found it way easier to know the best lengths for a single blade. :sneaky:

Cool. I'm curious about your Echo. I wonder if it handles as much like a Wildfire as I suspect it does. Do you have any thoughts on that?

BTW, putting a saddle and straps in the Guide wasn't my idea. There were at least a couple others here locally who had done it, and what got me going was a quote from one of the OGs that the saddle turned a Guide into "a whole 'nuther boat". That was meant in a good way. Your Echo looks (on...

Cut the part attached to the seat. I used a bevel guide on my table saw, but given the small size of those hanger ends, it could be done with a hand saw. That's what I did initially with the Guide. Just having the thigh straps makes a big difference in extended rapids - especially after you...

Every time I read one of these threads, my head starts to spin and I start wishing I lived close to Canoecopia. :oops:

I like to have at least 9" of clearance for my size 11 (US) feet. You'll need different hangers, but with the specced 11.5" depth you should be okay. I would make truss style hangers if it doesn't already have them. If cutting down existing trusses, cut off the bottoms. If you want to angle the...

When I first started kneeling, I put a section of pool noodle under my ankles for support. Eventually, tendons got stretched out enough I didn't need that. In winter when I can't paddle much I keep things loose by kneeling for a bit as part of my regular exercise. My whitewater solo has foot...

Those are my favorite flat seats. I wish they'd make a contoured version. Maybe I'll just do that myself someday.

Yeah, I usually make sure my spare paddle is wood with some kind of hardened tip, so I can use it to push off the bottom with minimal damage if necessary. But stuff happens when we don't expect it. So far, I've managed to keep my carbon paddles undamaged, but I don't believe that will last...

Goo Gone is a citrus solvent, according to the label. Also available at hardware stores. I use it to clean wax off my skis. Acetone is better than liquid fuels because it has no additives and evaporates quicker.

You could bridge the crack with a strip of aluminum on the outside pop riveted in place. Better yet, a strip inside and out with through bolts. It would be ugly, but it would get you on the water and should last a while.

Is it really paint? Or is it just gelcoat? If gelcoat, just use acetone. If paint, Goo Gone. But you'll have to follow GG up with alcohol wash if you want anything to stick to it.

Thanks for the input. Comparing with the Guide is very useful to me.

Yer killin,' me. :D I had a feeling that the Phoenix was gonna get ya. Thanks for the comparison with the Guide. Very useful to me.

They certainly do limited you to solo canoes.....and those other skinny floating objects. And the abrasive finish......but I repeat myself.

Yeah, I've always wondered if they really help.

I think that canoe deserves ash gunwales. Surely there's a local or semi local hardwood supplier who will sell you a plank. If you have a Woodcraft store in the vicinity, they may be able to hook you up with a local hobbyist that would mill it for you (they likely know who has the good tools).