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I really hope so Jim. Scraping went well, the epoxy was still pretty green so shaved easily. When I was unscrewing everything to flip the boat over I discovered that I slopped epoxy right into a 3" screw head. The boat turned over well, a few forms fell out. The center ones stayed so I think...

I should have added that it looked a lot worse when I first applied it. I used my gloved hand like a squeegee and forced out as much of the grey air trapped epoxy as I could. I then added fresh over top and carefully worked it in. This helped a lot in removing the grey but it left it looking...

I put two layers of bias cut s glass on the stems. This didn't turn out so great colour wise. S glass doesn't seem to wet out as clear as E glass plus I got some air in there despite trying not to. Durability has a cost I suppose. I'll go scrape off what I can of the excess while it's still...

Thank you for taking the time to put all this together. Your brain is clearly wired for writing instructions. I always appreciated the Stuff Rob Macks posted on the Kayak forum. This thread makes me feel a little guilty not including more details in my thread. I'm also going to try stemless...

I lucked out and scored a good deal on some 18' bead and cove cedar strips. The coves aren't in the best of shape but the price was good for 2 boats worth and only a few blocks away from home. When I had the garage door open with the natural light I could see I didn't do as good of job on the...

Once it cures I'll do the inside and then see how it feels. I'm going to do a full 6oz layer inside plus an additional 5 foot layer in the cockpit area. If it's still too flexible I'll add a layer on the exterior football once I level sand the outside. I'll be putting bias cut S glass on the...

Yesterday as I was getting ready to lay the glass out I noticed that the hull had flared a little at the bottom. I wrapped cam buckle straps around the hull and hot glued the inside to the forms to keep the proper shape when glassed. I rolled out the Hexcel 4533 6oz x 60” the night before and...

That sounds pretty nice having the extended time for a chemical bond. I just re-stocked with 105/207 for upcoming projects though so it would be a while before I have the opportunity to try anything new.

I ended up working a couple of extra days. I finished sanding the seal coat today then vacuumed everything twice. I followed that up with a warm water wash/dry. I turned up the heat in there and will tack cloth it tomorrow afternoon before laying the glass on there to relax overnight. Aiming...

No glassing today, got called to work. Maybe Sunday.

The warm water wipe down is just to remove any potential amine blush. I do this before I start sanding as I've read you'll sand/mix it in if there's any there. The tack cloths I have are sealed in packages and leave no lint. Even after scrubbing at it twice with the vacuum the tack cloth...

My solo canoe is 32" at it's widest with a fair bit of tumblehome. I'm just under 6'2. At first I though 260cm was good but after spending some time using a high angle lightweight 250cm I got used to it. My spare is also high angle and adjustable 240-260cm. Playing around 255cm feels pretty...

My plan is to wait a few more days to sand. Then I'll give it a wash first with water cloth then a gentle sand again with 180 grit on the log board and a little with the RO plus some by hand. This will be followed but a couple passes with the vacuum, another water wet wipe followed by a tack...

Thanks for the kind words guys. I want to let it cure for a few days before gently sanding it. I want to be really careful not to get any dust trapped in green epoxy so I'll wait on sanding. I'll need 12-13 hours for 3 coats of West Systems 105/207 so it will likely be the 14th for glass...

I forgot to add, when I seal coated I did my best to brush on a very thin even coat tipping back into the wet. You could really see the sections where it sucked up the epoxy (flat spots) and the areas where it didn't (shiny). Hopefully it saves some weight.

Shaved the epoxy down with the scraper then went over everything again with 180 grit. Vacuumed the hull twice then hit it with the tack cloth before seal coating. I really enjoyed the colour reveal. When the epoxy went on I saw a couple of spots I'll have to sand again. I didn't sand it...

Fillet joint and filling in some gaps. Straight wood flour on the epoxy fillet but a mix of wood flour and walnut sawdust to try to get the colour right for the rest. Used one of those new disposable wooden spoons to round the fillet corner.

I spent some more time sanding on the tumblehome section with the longboard. I offset the sandpaper a little to not chew into the piece below it. I also used the longboard to round over the walnut so the glass will lay better. I then used the random orbital and made 2 passes with 180 grit. I...

I roughly shaved down the stern stem with the RO sander with some 60 grit. After doing so I could see I was a hair thin on making the curve look right. I epoxied on a few more laminations the shaved it down and shaped it some as I finished rough sanding the hull. I've still left it proud for...

The Clipper construction seems quite robust despite being lightweight. I thought the seat hangers were powder coated aluminum but it turns out they're fiberglass. I ordered the thwart tubing, seat hanger, seat and end caps from Western Canoe and Kayak. The hanger comes as a single piece and...