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Actually, from everything I've read, and prior experience, epoxy needs a gap. Total closure of the gap does not provide a suitable bond. Wood glues do not need this, that's why I went with wood glue for the top visible edge. The inwale and outwale were cut from the same piece of wood, and...

Just glued the last outwale on. I tried something I haven't seen posted anywhere. It's easier to look at the pictures, but I painted the outwale with epoxy except for the 1/4" edge that meets the inwale. I ran a bead of Titebond III on the inwale, and clamped it. The picture looks like...

Here's how I'm doing my gunwales. I ripped a piece of stock for inwale and outwale, so color & grain match. Cut the scuppers out of the inwale, cut all of the tapers I wanted, then rabbeted the outwale to cover the strip edge. First photo shows the second side ready for glue-up. Second photo...

Yeah, Woodpuppy. This is a great thread. I read it start to finish before starting my first build. Should have read it more than I did. This is an awesome thread, especially for first timers, like me.

Yeah, I've been planning my next one since this one was half stripped. I've been keeping track of "lessons learned" along the way, and when I get it finalized, I'll share it. The biggie at this point is something Brian pointed out: It's much easier to clean up epoxy when it's still wet than...

Hadn't even thought of cleats for the seats Brian....I was going to hang them from the gunwales. So much for having everything figured out. I really like the way those cleats look. I saw that earlier on the solo build thread. Now it's back on the table. i guess I have about a week to figure...

Thinking ahead, I believe I have most of the rest figured out. One rather important item I'm still working on is tie-down points & hardware. Anyone have anything they'd like to share? I saw one that had a brass tube drilled through the stems, about 6" below decks. I like the way this looks...

I just created my own seat pattern. Started with how wide I wanted my seat to be, and the drop I wanted. Also, the height of my seat frame rails. For mine, I decided 1" high seat rails, 16" wide seats, 1" drop, continuous curve (not flat on the bottom). Drew 3 parallel lines, 1" apart...

Well the first in-wale is on. Took longer to cut the parts than I had anticipated.....what's new. Not sure how long I'll leave it clamped before I do the other side. Probably at least 2 days. Hate for it to pop loose. Didn't really need all of these clamps, but had them handy, so I used...

Forgot the picture

Pat (and others): Hijack away! the replies and original questions help me a lot, and probably others as well. I'm using walnut for all trim, except decks, which will be walnut and cherry. I'm going a little under 3/4" square, and I'm rabbeting the out-wale so it will cover the strip edge...

Yeah, Roy. Could be a bit of overkill. First canoe, not going to be doing a lot of distance portaging. I'll put more thought into next canoe glass use. I was concerned about abrasion (inside and out) and the mere thought of oil-canning gave me tremors. Not sure how big of a concern that is...

Well, the inside is glassed. Wetted cloth a little heavy. A cup of epoxy went in the grunge can. doubled the football, wetted the football, and filled the first layer. Going to be scraping the edge of the football and a couple spots around the stems first thing in the morning, then I'll be...

While I am a novice at canoe building, I do have a fair amount of glass experience, and education. Max strength comes only from FULL wetting of the cloth, with no entrapped air. It is true, that additional epoxy adds virtually no strength beyond this. Where it does get a little tricky, is...

Just reviewing some of the videos from the CanoeCraft workshop series. Stumbled on this: Jim White was a runner-up in our Canoecraft on the Water contest. He started the canoe in the beginning of 2016 and finished it July 23rd 2017: "This was my first canoe of several. I hope." A year and a...

Jim: you're posts never make me feel bad. I was just joking. I never expected to be as good or as fast as a seasoned veteran builder right out of the box. I've been working with wood for a very long time, but never applied my skills to canoe building. With all of the unexpected "life's...

Questions about glassing the inside: A couple people posted when they cut the glass for the inside, they lay it out on the outside of the hull. That seems to make a lot of sense. Do you cut the glass to go up the sides of the stem at all (at least the bottom part, before the turn) or stop...

Yeah, Cruiser. I saw Jim's post, and started wondering how many has he breezed through in the time it's taken me to get about half done with one. He's probably saying to himself (and maybe others are too): "I should just go there and finish the dang thing so this idiot will stop posting this...

Well, I had hoped to glass the inside this past weekend, but family stuff didn't give me as much time to work on the canoe as I had hoped (and planned). While I don't mind the sanding yet, and I keep reminding myself of Cruiser's advice to channel my inner patience, I am cursing my poor...

Brian: Call me nuts, but so far at least, I am enjoying the inner clean-up. Keep in mind, I've only gotten as far as rough scraping about 1/3 of the hull, and there's a long way to go. By the end, I'm sure I'll be glad it's over. This is also my first build, and I've been anticipating the...