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Hello! Spring have arrived to Finland! I pulled cover off from canoe and noticed that there was some expanding on particle board, as there were gaps between strips. Any suggestions how to repair them? Epoxy and sawdust? or wood filler? 2020-04-22_05-56-26 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

Okay, gotta see whether I'll do sealing or not. is epoxy mixed with sawdust good for filling gaps?

Bottom nearly done.. 2019-09-11_02-40-21 by artturi hautamaki, should I precoat the hull with epoxy before adding glass? I have read people do it both ways.

Got some thermally modified pine (or spruce) and poplar to give some contrast to bottom. Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk

Have followed this topic while and I must say, very impressive work! Building stripper seems so simple after looking this one... This is like rocket science! How thick the walls are going to be when canoe is fully complete? What's going to be cost for this one? Sent from my PLK-L01 using...

Yep, I apply small drop to end of strip. Not so much, wish all end joints be like those in photo but some have small gaps between strips. Fish scale was used to weigh my selfmade bows pounds. Rowan, maple and juniper bows. Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk

Progress made. There is now coming the hard part, where strips start turning to bottom. Not all my forms were good, had to remake nro. 2 and 4. There is still little bumbs at front of canoe.. Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk

Pics didn't show but you mean this http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y390/JimDodd/DSCN0076_zpsplh4ydu9.jpg Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk

I got them from my work. 30e 100 pieces 6m 6x18mm strip. Only needed bead and cove. Very easy and saves LOT of time and money. Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk

Wait? I knew I forgot something.. hope that those strips don't stick very thigh... going to tape them before stripping any more. Thanks for note, I probably should done entire canoe without taping. Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk

Fingerjointed pine Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk

This canoe aims for speed and lightness, of course I had to make compromises with speed and dropped canoe lenght to "only" 4,5 meters. I did make the bottom shallow U/V shape to compensate speed loss. Will see how this one turns out.. Fun has begun Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk

Stunning views! What did you pack with you for such a trip? Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk

I thought that and I did look starting point from solo plans which I edited. https://www.flickr.com/gp/160875754@N08/290003 There is my flickr where you can follow my build. Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk

I broke my primary paddle in last trip and now had to make new one. I really like ottertail shaped paddle. I have read that bent shaft adds efficiency. So, why no one makes bent ottertails? All bents seem to be these wide and short style... Also, is there point at making double bent...

It's north west cruiser Here is build topic http://www.canoetripping.net/forums/forum/paddlecraft-construction/78320-northwest-cruiser-17-feet-build

This don't fall american trips category, but I Thought I'd share this anyway. https://www.flickr.com/gp/160875754@N08/eN5eN9

Thanks for input. Okay, the flare thing is clear now. I lowered the transition to tumblehome, it is still pretty low, but I'm not going in big waves I'll go with 1inch rocker, and maybe little more V- or U-shape to bottom. height at middle is going to be 12 inch. Does asymmetrical canoe...

The second mold was too narrow and caused abrupt line. now the shape is better.

I don't get it. Why asymmetrical canoes have longer side facing forward? like water drop but reversed. I thought water drop shape is the most efficient shape and with lowest resistance. ?