Recent content by MrPoling

I kept a role of duct tape in my repair kit. A year or so ago I knocked a hole in my Royalex canoe on a cool rainy day. I dried it as best as I could, but I couldn't get duct tape to stick. I've replaced it with some gorilla patch and seal tape, which claims it can be applied to wet...

I have a Yellowstone Solo in black gold, but I think your royalex hull is the one to have. This hull is perfect for class 1-2 rivers. Im looking forward to seeing the build.

I bought a supposedly lightweight aluminum racing canoe once. As others have commented even a lightweight aluminum canoe will be 20 lb heavier than a composite. Probably the biggest advantage of aluminum canoes is The ability to store them outside in any conditions. I ended up selling it...

Welcome to the site. The rental suggestion is a good one if you are in MN. Most large (17 ft +) tandems should be able to handle extra weight, especially if you aren't provisioned for an extended trip. Many of us paddle tandem canoes solo. Most 16ft tandems have capacities in the 800 lb...

I've had a few experiences with low clouds, thankfully none while paddling. One very dark, foggy night I was camping in the Graveyard Fields in Pisgah National Forest. A breeze was blowing. Suddenly the fog blew off the mountain top. The sky lit up with stars and the Milky Way. For a few...

I normally start by fitting the stern seat where I think it should go. If you look close you might be able to tell from the wear marks. Then a test float to figure out where the front seat should go.

Bringing this out as a new thread to increase visibility. I'm curious about this: I've always used paddles with a factory varnish shaft and grip. But I get blisters on long trips, so if changing to an oil finish might help I'll give it a try. Thoughts?

I've heard having rearward trim encourages the stern to sink more as you approach hull speed. It feels true to me, especially in short light canoes and kayaks. So I'd be inclined to give the factory seat position a few paddles before changing it. I wouldn't worry a bit about moving a thwart...

What's on the outside? Are those some kind of metallic plates or are they rubber?

That is a nice looking canoe. Old school too. Good luck, hope it works out.

Is this near by? This big discovery will seat kids and absorb plenty of abuse. Only needs thwarts. (I wouldn't trouble with a yoke on a Discovery) https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/spo/d/fort-worth-canoe/7734659124.html Then this aluminum...

The wear on the ends is commonly covered with skid plates. If you search there's a couple threads that describe it well. I'd encourage you to price materials, they're not super expensive but they're not cheap either. My concern is that one looks pretty crooked. It could be a lousy cell...

I agree with Glenn. I think a 17 ft aluminum canoe would meet your needs well. They're extremely durable and readily available. The canoes you're looking at, Campers, Trippers and the Blue Hole OCA are similar in shape to most aluminum canoes. Bonus, if you don't have indoor storage...

Yeah, I've been thinking about adding ballast too. My Yellowstone solo is a little light and twitchy. I've got this nice granite countertop cut out. It should really help with stability. Any ideas what kind of glue I should use to glue it in?

Sliding focus is right about that Tripper. That is major damage, and I'd want it reinforced. With three young kids I'd look for a boat that didn't have damage. I sometimes think about how many paddling days, or days otherwise playing with the kids, a project will take.