Recent content by Jim Dodd

Looks great.

Another option. In stead of Dynel, or Kevlar ? Try 100% Polyester Fleece, ( Sweat Shirt material). I've used it in place of Kevlar. It will add thickness to the heavy abrasion areas of the stem. No it's not as tuff as Kevlar. Unlike Kevlar it is sandable. It is a great alternative, plus...

Don't worry about it . Paddle it ! I've paddled many Royalex "Hogged" canoes, while participating in river clean ups. It will get you there, and back. You will still have fun ! Hard to beat time on the water, even in a Hogged canoe ! Jim

I've always been puzzled by banging the gunnel with the shaft of the paddle. A canoe is a great craft to silently approach game, for hunting or photography. I noticed she only bangs the gunnels for certain maneuvers. Nice video ! Thanks for sharing Glenn ! Jim

Any business that makes vinyl signs for trucks, can do this for you. Local boat shops should also have a source for you. I greatly detest putting numbers on my canoes, but here in Iowa ? It's the law for anything over 13'.

One needs to know the difference between heat, and Ultraviolent light . Epoxy will degrade under long periods of sunlight exposure. This is different than being baked in an oven. System Three, used to, maybe still do, put out a very good Epoxy book. I believe, West System does also. Check...

I omitted, something we builders take for granted. Lightly sand, before applying a cloth patch. You need this for a mechanical bond. As Alan stated Peel ply over a patch, will save you finish time and epoxy. Years ago I purchased some densely woven Polyester cloth, at Walmat, that worked...

It appears to have definitely stressed the glass. Are you wanting to make it invisible ? Or just add strength back to the hull ? I would add a patch of cloth. 6 oz E-glass would be enough,. 2" either side of the crack, on the inside, on the side.. For the outside ? You could coat the...

One of the best tips I learned early on. Not only does it eliminate the dreadful staple dents, that are so ugly, removing staples is a breeze. Sanding time is much reduced. That's the big one !

Go again with the long board. If you are worried, that you have, too thin of a hull ? Add an extra layer of cloth in the football area. 4 oz cloth, will add plenty of strength. Note. Add cloth after your wet out coat has cured past tacky. I do this with all my hulls. Remember the wood is...

A Random orbital sander will leave Swirl marks. They are hard to see, but once epoxy is applied, they are there laughing at you. I start with a plane, and a rasp where needed. A ROS comes next. A Fairing board, and finish with the pool noodle. My best method is to wrap a short section of...

No I don't angle the mortise, but that would be a great option ! My mortise is pretty shallow. I fear going any deeper, as it would reduce the strength of the frame. My seats are heavier than most commercial seats I've handled, but my seats are bigger also. Just my tendency to make things a...

Actually with the shallow mortise on mine, no screws are needed. The pull of the lacing, or webbing, keeps everything in place. If I can eliminate screws ? I do, they are always the first place, rot develops ? Jim

To me ? I'd say you cut the notches wrong. It looks like you have weakened the joint. Now you are relying on glue to strengthen you seat. Here is a pic, of how I've built all my seats, without one failure, supporting a 240# man.

Thanks Sam ! I'm sure others will enjoy this ! FREE ? That's the way designs should be ! I think I have a Metric tape measure. If not ? I'll get one ! Thanks again ! Jim