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best truck cap tie down method

My current rig: Tacoma regular extend cab, 6 foot box with even height (front to back) cap. Yakima 78 inch bars with the old gunwale brackets. The gunwale brackets are bomber and make all the difference. The canoe is centered. Bar mounts to gutter mount plates bolted into the cap with a steel backing plate to increase the surface area. The back end extends out and I hang a red flag on it. This is useful for backing into parking spots. I always use the edges of parking lots and back in so that a truck does not clip the boat. For motels, the flag prevents me from backing through the room window! :)

The front has a V ties down on frame hooks. Its a trucker's hitch with a couple of half hitches to lock it, which is easy to quick release for popping the hood if need be. Therefore no backward slide is possible

Underside shows that slack cord is used to tie to thwarts, so that no forward slide is possible. I use ropes, because I like ropes and the truckers hitch. I use two ropes per bar because I like redundancy, and my ropes have a lot of UV exposure. An extra 5 minutes of tie on time for piece of mind. I use truckers hitches, which are bomber when combined with the gunwale brackets.

The back end is rope-free like the OP specified, so you can easily mount a bike there with a trailer hitch rack mount. I am in and out of the the back every morning and night on the road, so this works perfectly for me.

This set up is totally bomber (did I say "bomber" too often! ;) ). I have driven thousands of km's back and forth across Canada to the subarctic many times with this exact rig, through wicked storms. My previous Nissan truck had the exact same rig with the same Yakima bars (different cap). The photo is from a motel in High Level Alberta, 1 day's drive from Yellowknife or Fort Smith, my 2 launch points to fly out to the Barrenlands! (note where the motel window is - you definitley want that flag on the back!;)


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Another Tacoma owner here. I went with a cab high cap with factory installed rack and put a single bar on the cab. Gives me good bar spacing and support. I use the gunwale brackets too. They work great on long trips on the freeway. Never had and issue with cab twist even in 4x4 on canyon dirt roads. I have webbing loops under the hood like the ones Robin posted. I don't always use them though.

 
I just thought I would put in some links for poly loops and other tie down ideas.

http://www.placidboats.com/storage & transport.html

Not inclined to DIY? ( I wonder about the slip potential on this one)\
http://www.prolineracks.com/thule-quick-loop-straps-530.html

http://www.thule.com/en-us/us/produ...ccessories/thule-hood-loop-strap-529-_-529999

Its funny when we bought a Ridgeline and transferred our rack over from an old Tundra with the same boats the clearances were different. We had sky high racks on the Tundra and were able to take some of the extension ( height)out. I was happy about that.! Still enough height that when we met tower breaking winds in Nebraska and Colorado we were able to shift the canoe back so there was not too much pressure on the bow.. Still broke a tower in half and had to stash the canoe against a stockyard fence. We did not lose the load at all as there were bow and stern lines.. actually two front and two aft for one boat. When the winds get high.. you take less chance.
 
I always use 2 diagonal front tiedowns,. the cab to box flex has never been an issue for me on my 4X4 ranger,even on rough launch roads and 1,000 mi trips..
Turtle



Dont come to the North Maine Woods then.. The top half of the state is full of logging roads. Some are good and some do NOT see a grader between harvests. I say this not to be offensive but to save your boats. Seems however if you had been there you would have experienced the inevitable torquing and twisting so here is not probably on your rout.
 
In NY there is a rear overhang distance beyond which you need a flag. I think 5' ??. With less you aren't required to flag. never hears of needing a light. I love long span. Ever notice that outfitters,dealers and others that haul canoes on trailers which have long bar span, use only 2 straps?
Turtle
 
Hans, Hoop, and Waterdog all have the right idea.

Backing a trailer gets easier with practice. A canoe trailer is so light, it is no big deal to disconnect one and turn it around in a really tight spot.

I don't get the fascination with Toyotas. I drive a Ford diesel that is just getting broken in at 150,000 miles and gets 24 mpg.
 
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Hi Charlie, On my trucks I don't have any rain gutters and don't know if I'd trust them if I did. To hold the canoe on the truck I use an attachment point off the front bracket of the leaf spring, I'm talking under the rear of the truck, then over the canoe and secured to the bracket on the other side. If I ever loose that leaf spring bracket I figure that it's just about all she wrote.

I have drilled, taped and securely mounted eye-bolts to the four corners of the bumpers. If I had pretty trucks like you guy's I'd probably consider that loop under the hood. I attach the bow and stern of my canoe to those eye-bolts. I don't really expect them to hold the canoe on the truck so much as keeping the canoe pointed in the same direction as the truck is going. It's never happened to me but if that canoe was to ever get twisted sideways I think it'd make a terrible sail and maybe cause me to run off the road.

That's what I think anyway...

Rob
 
Rain gutters ( fake) hold . Had mine 16 years. Two years ago with a foot of snow on the truck I forgot the rack was on and drove into my low garage and ripped the rack right off.. The rain gutters held to the vehicle

Trailers have their own issues. I have a four boat trailer and I don't often use it. On five thousand mile trips I hate to worry about parking and left hand turn planning. Plus I know several people whose trailers got picked up by wind shear and dumped in the ditch...dragging the tow vehicle with it. Those trailers are sometimes too light.

I won't even consider a trailer accessing the Machias Ponds or Allagash Lake.. Other points on the Allagash yes.. But turning around is not always possible on twitch roads.. You have to back up sometimes quite a ways. I made an error in the Junior Lake area two years ago and backed up 1 mile.
 
If I was concerned about cap to cap flex on rough low speed roads going to a launch,I would just loosen the rear strap a little when I traveled on those roads. I worry more about crosswinds and semi-truck turbulence.
Turtle
 
If I was concerned about cap to cap flex on rough low speed roads going to a launch,I would just loosen the rear strap a little when I traveled on those roads. I worry more about crosswinds and semi-truck turbulence.
Turtle

I don't work about frame flex on mine as the tires just lift prior to the frame flexing. On the longer 4dr pickups it can be a concern on rough terrain but I have yet to hear about a canoe being damaged due to this. Some very nice Toyotas here!

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WOW thanks everyone. Lots of good ideas and nice looking set-ups.. My tie-down method looks like Hoops w/out the access cab. My bumper works well in my situation as it has factory installed eye-bolts under the bumper.I just got the word from the shop that my truck needs a timing belt gasket, $700.00(or more). I am close to selling her and hate to burn 7 bills just prior. I did hear from a car salesman that I can get a 2015, 4x4, manual, access cab, no frills Toyota for 21,000 plus tax etc. Decent price I think, never bought anew truck before.

Hanz: nice set-up. Your boat is more forward than mine.

Robin: Goood pixs of the Poly. It is flat webbing that climbers use, I have lots of it.

Mihun: 90's Toyota, yours is older than mine

cflcanoe: how a bout a cyclist red blinkie light w/ rechargeable batteries. They have models with a clip to attach to strap and what-not. Some are very bright and you can charge them w/ your computer.

Hoop: Same set-up as mine w/out the access BUT with my potential purchase might be the same.

Waterdag: The twist I am concerned with is between the cab and the cab. Not certain how much flex there is tho'.

Yellow: Good links, thanks. I'll make my own. Your tower snapped! never seen that before.

ppine: I'll check the Fords but I really prefer the smaller trucks. Even Toyotas are getting huge. i do not need big. In fact if I find the Toya too big I 'll pass and keep my ancient mariner.

Oldie: I liked the older rain gutters that are part of the body. Wood and quick release racks were the norm and would hold so many boats.

Turtle: Why loosen the rear strap for 4x4? To allow boat movement??

Ice: Nice picture. I do wonder if there is that much flex. On normal roads no problems. Rough roads??

thanks again all and stay warm. Brutal out there today, 10F/-12C when i woke up. I hope to check out the trucks this weekend after I pick up mine from the shop.
 
Late to this party but will throw this question out nonetheless...I have a Tacoma with an Access cab and use rain gutters attached to the rear of my cap and a bar rack over the truck's cab. So far I've had no issues with the flexing folks have mentioned but here's my question; is the concern only with a cap that is attached to the truck while using clamps? My current truck uses clamps but this is the first time I've had that set-up. Previously all of my caps have been bolted directly to the truck. While it makes taking the cap on/off easily, I find I don't really ever remove the cap anyway so maybe we should just bolt the caps on and the flex issue is no longer an issue. Does that make sense? I'd love to hear your thoughts on this. Thanks!

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...Be well.

snapper
 
As a truck mech and installer of truck bodies I can say that their is defiantly a difference in movement between the box,which is bolted solid to the frame,and the cab which is rubber mounted. That said, it never caused a problem on my 4x4 level II Ford Ranger ext cab.(which I like better than Toyota). Sadly,the discontinued them. Yes,If you are worried,stop at the hyway edge and loosen the rear strap to allow movement. I would rather have long rack span to help semi. slip streams on the long trip,than freedom from the short rough road frame flex. I have cracked my carbon/Kevlar canoes, but not that way
Turtle
 
If you have no issues carry on I have several lightweight wood canvas canoes (45 lbs 36 40.) that I'd rather play safe with
 
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