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Oswegatchie River to above High Falls and Back in the Fall

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Location
Western NY
Took a solo trip up and down the Oswegatchie River to a few miles above the high falls. Oct 26th to 28th 2023. The popular area canoe guide says it is an 8 hour trip up river and 5 hours back down. For me it was about 5 hours up and 3 hours down.

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The first day I paddled from Inlet Road to camp 22 in a little over 4 hours this is about 12.5 miles upstream and about a mile away from the high falls. The water was a bit high for this trip and there was only one beaver dam I could not paddle over on this first day. I typically do not base camp but stayed at this location two nights. Turns out this was a good idea. Because of the up and back nature of the trip I would have camped in about the same location anyway, not loosing the time breaking down camp and setting up again worked out great especially since it rained 80 percent of the time. Also the river above campsite 22 had more obstacles in it and going over them in an empty canoe was a lot easier. An empty canoe was super easy to portage around high falls without all my kit. There was a nasty log jam that was hard to get over and it was the only obstacle I could not go over heading back down river.

The river is crazy bendy, going upstream I swear I went in a complete circle a few times. The current is a bit strong on a lot of the turns and it helps if you can be pointed in the right direction at the apex of the turn so you don't have to fight the current coming towards you as you are trying to turn into it.

The area around the river is all beaver ponds and bog up until about you hit the camp sites in the 20s. Most of the river bottom and banks are super soft sand, The banks are mostly lined with some grass and low scrub bushes. There are not really many good places to stop. I would think this would be prime black fly territory in the summer. I am glad it was cold enough where they were not out anymore for my trip. For this reason this may be a better shoulder season trip.

I made camp in the rain at site 22. Nice site room for a few tents and a it has a privy. The area around the fire pit was a bit worn-out and dirty but the rest was nice and clean.
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The second day I paddled up the river, in an empty boat, over quite a few beaver dams, log jams and a small rapid (that I failed to get up). I stopped at the High Falls for a bit and then portaged around them and padded up the river about an hour more. The portage is about a three minute walk and easy. Above the falls the river has more dams and log jams and the current seems a bit faster. With the rain starting again I did not go more than two miles up before turning around.

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Downriver is SO much more fun than up :) I made it back to camp and the sun came out for a little while. Hung out at the river and had dinner.
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Woke up at dawn to strike the camp and head back down river to the car. It started raining almost immediately. I took down my wet camp and was on the river before 9am. The raining the wind picked up,I put my spray decks on canoe to keep some water out. I was in my semi dry top and pants and it was just cool enough outside were I did not feel hot or sweat, so the rain was not really an issue except for having to stop paddling every once in a while to use my bilge pump (sponge).

The trip back to Inlet road, from campsite 22 was about 2.5 hours. I packed the car and changed in the rain. The Inlet dirt road back to 3 is about three miles, while driving those three miles the rain stopped and the sun came out :)

Here is a link to a video log I made of the trip.
 
Thanks for the report and video, I almost made it up there last week. If I did I would have been heading up when you were heading out. I was at the inlet launch a couple weeks before and the water looked too high and pushy for me. There was no flat water in sight from the landing and it looked like I’d have to jump from eddy to eddy to make headway so I backed out. From your video it looked like things flattened out. A guy that was there said the water went from 1.5 feet to over three the day I was there. I don’t know what gage he checked, but do you know what the level was for you?

I find crossing beaver dams tough in a solo boat, but no problem in the large tandems I prefer.
 
Thanks for the report and video, I almost made it up there last week. If I did I would have been heading up when you were heading out. I was at the inlet launch a couple weeks before and the water looked too high and pushy for me. There was no flat water in sight from the landing and it looked like I’d have to jump from eddy to eddy to make headway so I backed out. From your video it looked like things flattened out. A guy that was there said the water went from 1.5 feet to over three the day I was there. I don’t know what gage he checked, but do you know what the level was for you?

I find crossing beaver dams tough in a solo boat, but no problem in the large tandems I prefer.
I looked at gauges before I left but they all seem far enough away not to be very relevant. I did paddle from eddy to eddy on the way up. This was a my first time on this river and I seem to hit the water level ok. A little lower may have been easier for going upstream.
 
Thanks for the excellent report, photos and video, Jim. You really captured the character of that trip.

I hope you don't mind a couple of suggestions from an old solo paddler and then some questions.

You did a really nice job of handling the upstream run, but if you had more confidence in your cross forward stroke you could have avoided some of those paddle switches at crucial moments. Secondly, as to Minnesota switching, which is not in general my preferred way to paddle, it is oftentimes the more effective technique when paddling upriver, especially when you need to accelerate. Investing in a short carbon bentshaft paddle and becoming competent with it, can help paddling upstream on a twisty river like the Oz or up swift current sections. Loss of velocity and forward momentum due to single-side corrections in up-currents can be fatal to attainment success.

I don't think I caught the type of canoe you have, though I'm guessing some sort of Northstar. It seemed to handle the turns well.

What kind of camera did you use, and how did you attach it to various places in the canoe? And did you use some sort of microphone system connected to the camera, as the narration audio was very strong and clear.
 
Really nice trip report and video. Thank you! We were the party camped at site 23, October 26-28. You passed us at Griffin Rapids on the 26th, paddling upstream as we enjoyed a snack in the lean to. I thought the high water made the beaver dams easier to deal with, both upstream and down. But we carried poles, which can be a difference maker pushing over beaver dams and up rapids. The Oswegatchie is a beautiful river, but challenging, particularly in high water for a solo boat. Very well done!
 
Really nice trip report and video. Thank you! We were the party camped at site 23, October 26-28. You passed us at Griffin Rapids on the 26th, paddling upstream as we enjoyed a snack in the lean to. I thought the high water made the beaver dams easier to deal with, both upstream and down. But we carried poles, which can be a difference maker pushing over beaver dams and up rapids. The Oswegatchie is a beautiful river, but challenging, particularly in high water for a solo boat. Very well done!
Thanks, how did that beautiful stripper canoe fare? I'm sure it is a great boat to paddle, I hope it was not scratched up too much.
 
Thanks for the excellent report, photos and video, Jim. You really captured the character of that trip.

I hope you don't mind a couple of suggestions from an old solo paddler and then some questions.

You did a really nice job of handling the upstream run, but if you had more confidence in your cross forward stroke you could have avoided some of those paddle switches at crucial moments. Secondly, as to Minnesota switching, which is not in general my preferred way to paddle, it is oftentimes the more effective technique when paddling upriver, especially when you need to accelerate. Investing in a short carbon bentshaft paddle and becoming competent with it, can help paddling upstream on a twisty river like the Oz or up swift current sections. Loss of velocity and forward momentum due to single-side corrections in up-currents can be fatal to attainment success.

I don't think I caught the type of canoe you have, though I'm guessing some sort of Northstar. It seemed to handle the turns well.

What kind of camera did you use, and how did you attach it to various places in the canoe? And did you use some sort of microphone system connected to the camera, as the narration audio was very strong and clear.
I do not mind the paddling critique, you are correct. My paddling style has become a bit confused. I am a right side Canadian style paddler primarily, a WW paddle as a secondary, with a few freestyle moves. For the last 20 years I rarely ever switched sides and if I did, I did it WW style without changing my grip and reaching over. Late this summer I bought a NS Magic. I planned on taking a long trip in that boat this fall. I had a hard time adjusting to sitting, and even more so to a bent shaft and hit and switch paddling style. I practiced 5 weeks 4 times a week, 3 to 5 miles per trip, to get somewhat proficient in that boat with a bent shaft paddle.

Weather changed, the car shuttle driver I hired canceled, so I took this river trip in my Phoenix instead of the big lakes I had planned on paddling in the Magic.

My paddling was a mess! I took out a few sections of the video (can't believe you watched it) to review, laugh eat myself and analyzed WTF I was doing. An old dog learning a new trick is not an easy thing ;). I appreciate the advice, agree wholeheartedly and I am somewhat embarrassed with the technique in the video, but after paddling for about 40 years, I am still learning and love it. The Magic it the first "fast good tracking" boat I have ever owned. All of my other boats were or are WW or River boats, the Magic is my first fast laker.

I had an external mic with a dead cat shoved in my PFD for some of the trip, but I never listen to the audio. Th camera was a GoPro 9 with noise reduction on, it worked very well with the moderate winds, I was impressed.
 
after paddling for about 40 years, I am still learning and love it.

That's my philosophy and experience, too. I began paddling lakes at age 8, took up serious whitewater for 20 years at age 36, sea kayaking at age 52, Hawaiian outrigger paddling at age 59, and flat water freestyle classes at age 65. I learned new things and improved my techniques in all those activities, and still work on stuff in my late 70's. Some of that . . . (sigh) . . . is now learning what I no longer can (or should) do.
 
That's my philosophy and experience, too. I began paddling lakes at age 8, took up serious whitewater for 20 years at age 36, sea kayaking at age 52, Hawaiian outrigger paddling at age 59, and flat water freestyle classes at age 65. I learned new things and improved my techniques in all those activities, and still work on stuff in my late 70's. Some of that . . . (sigh) . . . is now learning what I no longer can (or should) do.
Ha, I’m 56 and planning ahead, my left knee is starting to complain (WW injury while raft guiding two seasons ago) that was part of the reason for the Magic, made to sit, not kneel, and only 27lbs. Not in a hurry to transition to this kind of boat and beyond this one I see an ultralight ADK canoe and double blade coming up on the horizon at some point :) I plan to keep padding until planted.
 
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