• Happy Birthday, Simon Fraser (1776-1862)! 🧭🏞 4️⃣9️⃣

Finishing Ash gunnels???

Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Ok guys --- lots of conflicting information floating around. What's the best way to finish new Ash gunnels? Oil, polyurethane, epoxy??? What holds up best? What offers the best protection?

Thanks john R
 
Well, you will get several conflicting answers here too, lol. Oiling is probably the easiest and quickest to restore. If I am installing gunwales that I have made, I give them one or two coats of clear coat epoxy and then 3 to five coats of varnish. They are very shiny then. I store my canoes inside, so touch up with varnish is only required once every few years. I coverall sides, including the inside with the initial coat.
 
I'm with Mem on this one. I've done the oiling but switched over to varnish. For me much easier than treating a couple of times a year. Plus since I've started storing my hulls inside I don't worry about break down as much as can touch up as needed.
 
Oil doesn't penetrate ash very far. I had continual mold problems even with five coats of oil hand rubbed in to penetrate the wood. Marine varnish all the way.
 
I use varnish on my wood canvas canoes gunnels. When I restore a fiberglass or other modern canoe I replace rotted out ash gunnels with new varnish covered ash gunnels. I have re oiled a few dryed out but solid ash gunnels on some Royalex canoes and they came out nice so it's a personal choice I guess.
 
Varnish for me too. But if the the hull is painted I bring the hull color onto the bottom of the gunwales. If it sits outside the paint holds up better and rightside up all you see is varnish. Not sure I have a pic of that detail but I can take one.
Jim
 
And I have yet another opinion !

On MOST of my canoes (strippers) I like to glue and screw my inwhales, then glue the outwhales. Followed by very heavy coats of Watco Teak. This seems to take for ever to dry ! The difference between Watco, and Varnish, if you scratch the Varnish, it will show a white mark. Watco won't !

Gluing on gunnels Seals out the moisture. Of the gunnels I've replaced for people, the rot comes from between the hull and the gunnels !

Now if you are going to just screw your gunnels on, I'm with Mem, except I'd use Watco Teak instead of varnish !

I wish I was to the point of installing gunnels !!!

Jim
 
Last edited:
Now just to clarify, when you guys say varnish I assume that you are talking about a spar urethane??? Or is it just spar varnish, I guess both are available.

Jim Dodd - I had absolutely planned to coat the backsides of the inner and outer gunnels with epoxy then I had planned to glue them on with thickened epoxy. Good point about the scratches not showing on oil finish.

If I were to go with a varnish coating would it be beneficial to coat the wood with epoxy on all sides before varnishing - just a thought.
 
Last edited:
Yes I know that removing the gunnels would be a problem and would require some delicate chisel work at the least. I doubt I'll ever need to remove them, I was just thinking that installing them with epoxy would indeed eliminate a source of water reaching voids behind the gunnels and causing problems.
 
I tend to use oil on the gunwales of whitewater canoes and canoes that I expect might see some hard use. For flat water boats, I tend to favor varnish. If I have the gunwales off, I apply low viscosity penetrating epoxy on the faces that abut the hull, but not on the external surfaces.

Oil is quick and easy to apply but it really doesn't penetrate the wood IME. On whitewater canoes with oiled gunwales, I will often wipe a section of the gunwale completely free of oil with my hand after only one outing. I do not believe that oil seals the grain against water penetration as well as epoxy or varnish. Oil works well if you continue to apply it. How often will depend on how you use the boat, how often you use the boat, and how you store it. I know whitewater open boaters who reapply oil to the gunwales of their canoes after every single trip. On the other hand, if you are using the boat mostly for flat water paddling and not real often, and it is stored indoors, you may only need to reapply oil once or twice a year.

Varnish is more durable but once it goes bad, it is more trouble to restore. On boats that I expect to sustain abrasion to the gunwales, I avoid varnish because it shows scratches much more than oil, and it would tend to get degraded more quickly. I will sometimes apply varnish to seat frames, seat hangers, thwarts and yokes and use oil on the inwales, outwales, and deck plates.

I have had good results with Pettit Z-Spar Captains and Flagship varnishes.
 
I use Teak oil which isn't pure oil but a proprietary mix that has some varnish in it. You didn't say what canoe you were working on or what the hull is made of?
 
I use Interlux

interlux_schooner_gold_varnish.jpg
 
Epifanes. You get what you pay for


Yeah, what she said.

We had a notable failure with the premixed stain and varnish coating. It is crap. Of course you can always paint them if it is a utility boat. A thinned out coat of epifanes will soak right in and seal it reallllllly well if you put some topcoats on over that. Same idea with thinned out epoxy.

I have gone away from ash as it is kind of heavy and hard to get in longer lengths. We use a lot of cherry and occasionally mahogany, and of course spruce on the hurons.
My favourite gunwales are on the Mattawa...carbon fibre...zero maintenance and indestructable.
 
I am with mem ... 2 coats clear epoxy, followed by marine varnish (Epifanes) ... the epoxy seals and hardens the surface, once cured and sanded, it gives a perfect substrate to get a super smooth and shiny finish.

Brian
 
only canoe in the stable with ash gunwales is my hemlock peregrine, Dave recommend teak oil. I use Watco same as Jim.

That said I agree epoxy with UV protection would be tougher, but overkill for my needs. Something about the satin natural oil finish and touch that I like too though.
 
Back
Top