Barrens build

[Jim Dodd]

You know me ! A couple of questions ! OK 4 !

Seal coat ?

S-glass OVER the E-glass ?

Peel Ply ? I'm guessing by the photo, you at least peel plied the edge of the Dynel .

What resin did you use for this build, so far ?

​ Looks great !

​ Some day I'm going to set my strongback on a scale. So while I build, I can see Where all the weight comes from !

Jim

 

[Alan Gage]

You know me ! A couple of questions ! OK 4 !

Seal coat ?

I guess you'd call it a partial seal coat. I used thickened epoxy to fill in the cracks and also filled most of the staple holes with it.

S-glass OVER the E-glass ?

Yes

Peel Ply ? I'm guessing by the photo, you at least peel plied the edge of the Dynel .

Right, only on the dynel

What resin did you use for this build, so far ?

Back to Raka. The Adtech probuild is a bit thick for wetout, 820 series won't fully cure below 80 degrees, and I'm not rich enough, like Mem, to spring for the System 3 clear coat.

Alan

 

[Jim Dodd]

Good ! And Thanks !

Yeah I'd be using System Three's Clear Coat, except for the price !

 

[Alan Gage]

Tonight I flipped it over, sanded the inside, and added thickened epoxy fillets to the sharp inside corner of the knuckled tumblehome. Maybe Kevlar tomorrow.

Weight is sitting at just a hair over 27 pounds.

20161107_001 by Alan, on Flickr

20161107_002 by Alan, on Flickr

Alan

 

[Jim Dodd]

How was working with thin cedar ?

Oh ! Sorry ! But could you post a side shot ?
​ It looks big ! Like !

 

[memaquay]

Wow, you're moving right along, you'll be finished yours before I start mine! In light of election fever and the awesome TV viewing you guys have given us in the last month, I would have donated some system 3 to you as payment for the many hours of entertainment!

I gotta get started on mine, maybe next week, although my wife caught me ordering a brand new snowtrekker tent last week, so the build might have to be incognito.

 

[Alan Gage]

How was working with thin cedar ?

It was no problem. In some ways it's easier as they're less resistant to bending and twisting. Probably the biggest thing is that it's harder to place the glue.
I never did switch to thicker strips below the waterline; stayed at 5/32".

Alan

 

[Jim Dodd]

I liked working with it for the insert on my last kevlar. No bead and coving.
I'll be following this, and I'll come up and check it out.
Thanks !

Jim

 

[Mihun09]

I gotta get started on mine, maybe next week, although my wife caught me ordering a brand new snowtrekker tent last week, so the build might have to be incognito.

Soooo, I guess this means you are going to Cuba this Winter after all.

 

[memaquay]

Ha ha, well, one of us is for sure, the other one might be out in the cold, literally, in a tent.

 

[Iskweo]

Those are some " robust" stems there Alan. Whatcha buildin....an icebreaker?

Christy

 

[Alan Gage]

Those are some " robust" stems there Alan. Whatcha buildin....an icebreaker?

Oh man. First I get grief for not using stems at all and now I'm getting it for using too much stem.

Three reasons for the widely tapered stem (about 2" in the bow and 1.5" in the stern):

1. I like the look of tapered stems

2. I thought it would make the build easier. The boat gets real wide real fast at the sheer. That's quite a bend for the gunwales and coming to a stemless knife edge doesn't help. Thought this might help and I think it will.

3. Better water/wave deflection.

But could you post a side shot ?

20161108_001 by Alan, on Flickr

Alan

 

[Alan Gage]

Last night I put Kevlar on the inside, all but the very ends of the boat, which I finished tonight. Dealing with wet cloth and kicking epoxy while trying to get everything laid in the stems isn't my idea of fun so I do them separately.

I went through my scrap box and patched together enough pieces for an extra bottom layer:

20161108_002 by Alan, on Flickr

Then a full layer over that:

20161108_003 by Alan, on Flickr

All wetted out and trimmed:

20161108_004 by Alan, on Flickr

Finished the stems tonight:

20161109_005 by Alan, on Flickr

Guess it's time to figure out what I'm going to do for gunwales so I can get supplies ordered. I'll be doing carbon over cedar again but "how?" is the big question.

Alan

 

[Canotrouge]

Wow great work Alan!! I think it will make for a nice dry boat!!

 

[Alan Gage]

Al wrote: Guess it's time to figure out what I'm going to do for gunwales so I can get supplies ordered. I'll be doing carbon over cedar again but "how?" is the big question.

Just ordered carbon (4") and kevlar (3") tape. I think I'll go back to gluing the gunwales in place and then putting on the fabric. The first time I tried it that way I did vacuum bagging. It was a little chaotic as that's a lot to cover with layers and then seal up while the resin is kicking. Thinking maybe I'll try infusion this time. It will be a long time getting it set up but at least I won't be working while on the resin-clock and hopefully it will save time in the long run by resulting in a nice finish from the get-go that won't require scraping ridges, multiple fill coats, and sanding.

Alan

 

[Alan Gage]

Weighed it tonight after adding the Kevlar. It added 9 pounds. Ouch! Up to 36.5 pounds. I was hoping to keep it at 45 or under but doesn't look like that's going to happen. I figure another 10 pounds for gunwales, float tanks, sliding seat, thwarts, and grab handles. Still not too bad though and it should be a very tough boat.

That kevlar just seemed to keep drinking up the resin. I squeegeed as much back off as I could without feeling like I was starving the cloth but with two layers on the bottom (three where there was overlap) it was a thirsty girl. It's a lot thicker than fiberglass cloth of the same weight. A vacuum bag would have been nice to keep pressure on it and knock down the thickness a bit.

Not much to do tonight. Ripped and scarfed gunwales and am waiting for the glue to dry.

Alan

 

[Canotrouge]

I would skip the float tanks, but that is just me. I really don't see the need for them. But you milage may differ!

 

[Alan Gage]

I would skip the float tanks, but that is just me. I really don't see the need for them. But you milage may differ!

I've thought about it but I like the float tanks for a couple reasons. I'm not a big fan of the normal small float tanks that come from the factory on most canoes; they don't seem to serve much of a functional purpose. I do like my large tanks that extend all the way to the sheer though.

In the event of a capsize my large float tanks make it easy to flip the canoe upright and empty all the water. That's something I can't do in canoes with the small factory float tanks even though they might weigh 15 pounds less. When the canoe is floating upside down on the water my tanks keep it floating very high.

Same goes for draining water from shore when the canoe is still in the water. When I pick it up for a portage, or if it's been sitting out in the rain overnight, I can lift one end of the canoe, tip it on its side or upside down, and the water easily drains from the other end even though it's still in the water. No worries about the stern sinking and scooping up more water.

It also makes sliding the canoe into the water from a steep shoreline easier. Sometimes, because of tight quarters, I've had to slide the canoe into the water from a high shoreline on its side. The large tanks extending all the way to the sheer keep the stem floating high in this situation and keep the water out.

Alan

 

[Odyssey]

I'm really enjoying this build. Thanks Alan.

 

[Canotrouge]

I've thought about it but I like the float tanks for a couple reasons. I'm not a big fan of the normal small float tanks that come from the factory on most canoes; they don't seem to serve much of a functional purpose. I do like my large tanks that extend all the way to the sheer though.

In the event of a capsize my large float tanks make it easy to flip the canoe upright and empty all the water. That's something I can't do in canoes with the small factory float tanks even though they might weigh 15 pounds less. When the canoe is floating upside down on the water my tanks keep it floating very high.

Same goes for draining water from shore when the canoe is still in the water. When I pick it up for a portage, or if it's been sitting out in the rain overnight, I can lift one end of the canoe, tip it on its side or upside down, and the water easily drains from the other end even though it's still in the water. No worries about the stern sinking and scooping up more water.

It also makes sliding the canoe into the water from a steep shoreline easier. Sometimes, because of tight quarters, I've had to slide the canoe into the water from a high shoreline on its side. The large tanks extending all the way to the sheer keep the stem floating high in this situation and keep the water out.

Alan

I'm with you for flotation, and I'm not suggesting not going w/o it just going with something different! That is why we use flotation bags in our canoes, they are light weight, and when you need the room, you can either deflate them or take them out. Cause when we need the room it means we have gear and when we have gear we tie it in so it act as flotation. Even better for boat recovery than bow and stern flotation is inside along the underside of the gunnels, I've had a few canoe that had close cell foam there and even with a boat full of water it remain really stable contrary to the bow and stern system, where the boat tent to want to pivot on them.