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Pond Hopping from Camp Happy (Adirondacks)

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Location
Genesee Valley, Western NY
May 5-8, 2015
Paul Conklin (Hemlock Kestrel)

I try to have at least three adventures in the Adirondacks every year, the first of the season, is by far the one I look forward to the most. It could be reasoned that a long winter makes one anxious, but for me, there is no better time to be in the woods than shortly after ice-out and before the first hatch of black flies. Water is plentiful for paddling and trees are free of foliage. A bushwhacking trek over trail-less terrain is more enjoyable when you can see the topography of the landscape. This year's Cinco de Mayo Day trip into the Five Ponds Wilderness would be a journey through the Red Horse chain of lakes north of the Stillwater Reservoir, with the goal of conquering more, of it's yet, unvisited ponds.

With an early start from home, I can be at the Stillwater boat launch at first light. I was paddling a Hemlock Kestrel with clear gel-coat sides. Traveling east, the sun silhouetted the rippling texture of the water through the translucent hull. I had to be vigilant of running aground, as the reservoir was curiously below its normal springtime elevation. It took me two hours to reach the Red Horse trailhead on Trout Pond.

After an easy half-hour carry, I set the Kestrel down in Salmon Lake. There were ponds east of Salmon I had not yet been to, so camp was established at the north end of this lake and the remainder of the afternoon was spent exploring. The first unexplored pond was less than a mile due east of Salmon. I chose to make the visit sans the canoe, as it was a difficult bushwhack and satellite imagery did not guarantee a sufficient paddling reward. This was a good call, as the pond was a bit of a disappointment being only one-third the size it was when my map was published. The second pond entailed a journey up Salmon's north inlet and a short carry east. The Kestrel made this trip and we were rewarded with a pleasurable circumnavigation of a beautiful, though unnamed, Adirondack pond. I returned to camp, made supper and retired early.

The objective for Wednesday was to travel northeast through Witchhopple and Beaverdam ponds where I would begin a two mile bushwhack to tiny Wilder Pond. In route through Witchhopple, I encountered another paddler. His name was Bob and he was camped on the lake. We were both from western New York and shared a similar passion for the Five Ponds Wilderness. I was invited to his campsite where we shared stories of our wilderness travels over coffee. Bob had a wealth of knowledge on the area and informed me that my camp on Salmon Lake was known as Camp Happy. I was aware that my site had history but knowing it went by the name "Happy" somehow heightened my fertile imagination of the good times had by those who preceded me. Before I left, Bob suggested we visit Beaverdam Pond, where he would show me the site of the old Rap-Shaw Club lodge. I had been to Beaverdam many times and was aware that there once was a structure on its west end but had never taken the time to investigate. Bob made the overland walk in the same time it took me to paddle up the channel.

The Rap-Shaw is a hunting and fishing club that is still in existence today, although in a different location. I have a feeling that the early Rap-Shaw of the 1920's may have been a club, where fishing and hunting were second to relaxing and socializing. I draw this conclusion from artifacts found at the lodge site and from my fertile imagination... it was, after all, a time of prohibition. The titles on a stack of 78rpm Victoria phonograph records were illegible. What tunes would have made the hit parade of a 1920's gentlemen's club? Was it Eddie Cantor and Al Jolson singing Broadway hits with the Gershwin Orchestra or did these stodgy businessmen cut loose with the jazz of Louis Armstrong, Bessie Smith's blues and Pine Top's boogie-woogie? After giving the site archaeological scrutiny, Bob and I parted ways and I boogied off in search of Wilder Pond.

I would follow Wilder's outlet from the east end of Beaverdam. The route would take me through two large beaver meadows and an endless chain of smaller woodland beaver ponds before emerging at Wilder's western tip. I found a comfortable rock on Wilder's shore to sit and take in its beauty. I snacked on trail-mix and dehydrated bananas to build up energy for the long trek back. On the way through Witchhopple, I stopped at Bob's camp to give a report on the second half of my day. It was 6:30pm when I returned to Camp Happy. There was just enough time for supper and evening chores before retiring to the hammock.

On Thursday I again paddled north to Witchhopple. The Kestrel was stashed in the bush near the Red Horse Trail and it's intersect with the Higby Twins Outlet. I planned to carry the canoe to both of the Higbys, but first I would venture on foot to Clear, then find my way to a tiny unnamed pond south of Clear. I again used an outlet stream as a corridor of travel. It took me through some very dense growth of young Beech trees. At the unnamed pond's outlet was a very active beaver dam, the rodent engineers were working hard to expand the pond's acreage.

I sat and studied a map, thus far, navigation in the woods had been quite easy, it was only 10:30 and I decided to extend my venture to Walker Lake, a fallen log across Walker's outlet allowed me to continue west to the northern tip of Willys Lake. At this point, it was a no-brainer that I should continue a counterclockwise loop back to Witchhopple, via Walker and the Higbys. This track would not achieve the desired paddle on the Higbys but it would afford a good opportunity to scout the best bushwhack for a return trip with a canoe.

I stopped briefly for lunch on the south side of Walker and then made a short climb to an unnamed puddle between it and the Higbys. The puddle's outlet was an exciting avenue to Upper Higby. Beavers had built a dam on a steep slope that defied the laws of hydrodynamics to my, non-rodent, brain. The Higbys will both be interesting paddles when I return. There wasn't any problem locating the canoe, the golden glow of sunlight shining through Kevlar, quickly revealed my hiding spot. I paddled into Witchhopple to once again report the day's adventure with my new friend Bob before returning to Camp Happy.


Friday, nature called at 3:00 am, a clear sky and full moon would not allow me to crawl back into the hammock. I readied the canoe for a crepuscular paddle around Salmon. I frequently parked to sit and listen, a pair of loons would yodel, woodpeckers drummed on resonant trees between the hoots of a Barred Owl. The break of dawn is my favorite time of day. Coffee in hand, afloat on a wilderness lake, it doesn't get any better.

After breakfast, I was ready for more adventure. I decided to follow the stream from Camp Happy up the hillside west of Salmon. The small stream had numerous interesting falls and cascades. I reached a slim, unnamed pond at its source and decided it was deep enough and significant enough to be added to my list of Ponds of the Five Ponds. From here, it was an easy walk west to Hawk Pond. From Hawk, I made my way to Willys, then southwest to the Bear Pond Club property line. From here I angled back to Hawk and retraced my steps to Camp Happy. It was 2:00 pm upon arrival.

I decided to return to the reservoir that afternoon. If conditions were favorable, I would paddle back to Stillwater Village. They were and I did, I slept in my own bed that night.

As I drove past the Stillwater Restaurant my new friend Bob was just emerging from the door holding his belly with a look of content. I asked if he had a good supper. "I did," he said, telling me he had ordered the fish fry. "It was good but I've had better dinners of trout up in those hills," pointing his finger north to the Five Ponds.

I don't know how the slim pond west of Salmon had gotten by my satellite scrutiny. My list of ponds is made from all of the named or otherwise significant bodies of water that lie within the 107,000 acres of the Five Ponds Wilderness. Significance is arbitrary and determined solely by me. With the addition of this pond there are now 112 bodies of water on my list, only 17 do not have names. So far, I have visited 101 of the ponds on my list.

Photos: https://get.google.com/albumarchive.../AF1QipOkrbPot9EuM2LRHU48PQlbjUyk__4vX6ovgWXw
 
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Conk,
Very cool TR and great photos!! I am especially intrigued by the remnants of the Rap-Shaw Clubhouse, and I never knew about the Happy Camp.
The allure of these small waters and little pieces of history are sometimes overwhelming for me, maybe for you too? I try to explain to MDB, but she doesn't get it, not many do...

Great stuff, you made my day!!
 
Awesome as usual. I remembercreading about Camp Happy in I think the book which was written using the journals of Bob Gillespie??? He also wrote about some of the other "camps" on the other lakes, built by guides for their clientele.
 
Conk - Thanks so much for sharing not only your photos but the history of the places you visited. I love learning about the people that were there before me. Sounds like a wonderful meeting of like minded souls when you bumped into Bob. We're all the better for it as well.

That's all for now. Take care, happy travels and until next time...be well.

snapper
 
Loved the pics, thanks for sharing so many. As someone who (sometimes obsessively) checks the Old Forge webcam during the non-summer seasons I have to agree that the first soft water camp of the year can be a special one. Other than the horrendous run down Stillwater by the hordes of snogos, do you think that there is any winter usage in your area of travel...it looks ripe for a winter trek.
 
Great report Conk!

I can't believe I've never spied that foundation at Beaverdam. And that little unnamed pond south of Clear and west of Red Horse not only had impenetrable beech but such thick small spruces I almost couldn't get the boat in the water. I used that route on a solo trip to go from Clear to Walker to Willies to Dismal to Bear, to Lyon, to Raven and back down to the Reservoir a few years back. So many ponds and so little time.
 
Thanks for sharing that Conk... I only get to come "home" once a year, but your trips help the rest of the time...

Couple questions...

Is it possible to go mostly by water from Stillwater to Lila?

When DO the blackflies start? My daughter gets out of college in early May every year, and works all summer... so we can't get a trip in during the summer... but I wonder now if I came up by mid-May if we couldn't get a week out together before she started that year's summer job...
 
Seeker...
Last weekend during SAR training on the trails in Inlet (near Old Forge) the first hatch of black flies were out, but as usual they were only swarming and annoying, not biting, yet. The trail maintenance local crew was supposed to work on clearing trails in the Inlet area this coming weekend. Last night I got an email message to cancel the plan for this weekend, because the biting version of black flies have exploded on the scene over the past couple of days. Best to wait for a while now.

You could in theory paddle from Lila to Stillwater, traversing a contested very rocky section of the Beaver River with a likely portage that is on private land. The land owners have historically adamantly opposed any travel through. Although often discussed, no one has taken the serious legal challenge to publicly make the trip.

A few years ago I paddled and carried from Lows Lake to the headwaters of the Oswegatchie, then to Stillwater. It requires a few very long carries to stay on state land, but is a good bushwhack trip for those of us who like that kind of thing.
 
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Thanks for sharing that Conk... I only get to come "home" once a year, but your trips help the rest of the time...

Couple questions...

Is it possible to go mostly by water from Stillwater to Lila?

Yes and no...the Beaver River drains Lila via Nehasne Lake into Stillwater, mostly navigable water. But, unless you want to start another lawsuit like Phil did on the Shingle Shanty, it's currently not a publicly accessible route.

When DO the blackflies start? My daughter gets out of college in early May every year, and works all summer... so we can't get a trip in during the summer... but I wonder now if I came up by mid-May if we couldn't get a week out together before she started that year's summer job...

Too late, Seeker, black flies are already out, swarming and starting to bite!!
 
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