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Overnight Trip on the Paw Paw Bends section of the Potomac (western Maryland)

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A buddy and I decided to do the Paw Paw Bends section of the Potomac River in western Mayland this weekend. This is a 22 mile trip that starts at the boat ramp in Paw Paw, West Virginia and ends in Little Orleans, Maryland as shown on the google map link, below.

https://www.google.com/maps/place/P...f78169fab17b82!8m2!3d39.5506711!4d-78.4630325

The river has a few Class I rapids/ledges in this section. What really makes this trip interesting, however, is the terrain. The river flows and winds through a series of big, dramatic horseshoe bends that are surrounded by high, steep mountains on either side with interesting rock formations and outcroppings, so you are canoeing through a canyon or gorge. The overhead 2D google map doesn't remotely do it justice and unfortunately I did not have my camera out until later in the trip when things had flattened out.IMG_3D7827E1CF76-1.jpeg - Stopping for lunch

8 miles down stream from the put in, after the fifth bend, is the National Park Service-maintained Sorrel Ride campsite, where we stayed. It has a chemcial toilet, picnic table and fire ring and room for several groups. After we set up camp, two other guys in a canoe came in and shared the campsite with us.

The campsite is sandwiched between the river and the old C&O Canal which runs parallel to it. The canal itself is in disrepair out in this section, but there are several locks that can be seen. The canal tow path is well maintained here and this has its ups and downs. The down side is that hikers and cyclists coming from both up river and down river, use the tow path. On Saturday we probably saw six or seven groups of between 2 to 6 people pass by on foot or on bicycle.

The upside is the tow path makes it easy to visit the stunning one-mile long Paw Paw Tunnel. It is only a little over a mile hike back to the tunnel (and almost to your starting point even though you've done 8 miles of winding river). The tunnel was part of the canal and was carved through a shale mountain side. The last few hundred yards before the tunnel entrance is a boardwalk that curves around, hiding the entrance until, suddenly, the tunnel entrance is in sight. It reminds me of something you might see in an Indiana Jones movie. There's even a little waterfall just before the entrance The shale hill sides on either side of the tunnel have been flaking off massive slabs, forcing the NPS to close the tunnel while trying to stabilize the hill and remove some of the looser slabs. They are doing this work in stages and the tunnel had been closed off for this work for over a year and just reopened in July. It will close again in September for additional work. I'm glad we were able to time our trip during this brief window of opportunity. We hiked the pitch black tunnel and then returned to the campsite.

IMG_471391552807-1.jpeg - Paw Paw Tunnel entrance

IMG_FCAA0B555616-1.jpeg - waterfall at tunnel entrance

Only a little over 2 hours from D.C. but feels way more remote.
 
That is a wonderful stretch of river, especially if you ignore the occasional camps and old school bus shanties on the West Virginia side. Lots of history, C&O Canal tunnels and aqueducts, abandoned railroad trestles (which I find strangely attractive), decent fishing and plenty of legal camping spots.

Upstream of Paw Paw, between the Little Cacapon and the South Branch on the West Virginia side (IIRC, I can not find the trip report) is a non-descript stream with a trail heading uphill. Up that trail is a falls that the locals call something like Little Niagara.

If you ever float the section above Paw Paw it is worth a stop and look. Local paddlers or clubs may be able to identify exactly which side stream.
 
That section of river was my first introduction to canoeing. It was the tenderloin center of a 50 mile over night trip in canoes, river camping the whole way down. All in the pursuit of the 50 miler canoe merit badge in Scouting.

I had no idea how transformative that trip would be become. As a young guy I was smitten by river tripping, which led to admiring canoes and all that has followed.

Paddle On!
 
Good TR, thanks for posting. In the 90's I made a 3-day weekend trip, Paw Paw to Hancock, with my son when he was about 9. He wasn't much help paddling. The final day to Hancock featured a lot of wide, flat water, the temperature was in the 90's and I was very ready for the trip to end when, mere miles from Hancock, I encountered a wonderful boat load of West Virginians. There were 5 or 6 of them crammed into a little jon boat which had maybe 4 inches remaining freeboard, not a PFD in sight. Still some distance away, I blinked through sweat-soaked eyes trying to make out something odd in the water nearby their boat. Closer... closer... what's that narrow silver thing... is that a beer-tap? YES! these fine gents were towing a keg in a barrel of ice. The barrel was mostly submerged, and the odd thing in the water near the boat was a tap sticking up. Incredulous, I asked, "is that a keg?" Well, yes, came the reply, "go ahead, fill up!" I emptied the hot water out of my bottle and filled it up with ice-cold, golden brew. It was Budweiser, and it was among the best beer I ever tasted. Them West Virginia fellas were crazy like a genius fox.

Any idea what's upstream between Cumberland and Paw-Paw?
 
Last year when I did this same trip, five canoes all lashed together floated by my campsite. People were walking between the canoes on a platform that was erected over the canoes. The platform was strewn with multiple coolers and a big radio that was blasting. In the center of the platform was a second smaller platform raised about 6 feet above the main platform. On top of this secondary platform was a full-sized Lazy Boy recliner which was occupied by what I presume was the leader of the expedition. Unfortunately, one of his minions was throwing empties into the river. I didn't see anything that bad this year but there were some large float parties that we saw on the river.
 
Good shakedown trip for the new tripping cooler, and a rewarding weekend spent on a river with history. Thanks for this.
Interesting how early industrial efforts have changed the landscape and been repurposed with a tourist bent. I enjoy a daily cycle on paths through the local landscape that once were rail lines serving our commerce and now provide a gentler purpose. One such rail trail bisects the sleepy village I grew up in; the proposed tourist trail was met with conflicting opinions at the time. Fears of trespass, litter and general abuse nearly derailed the whole thing (sorry for the pun). (Selfishly) I am glad it seems to have worked out for most everyone. Earlier today I opened up my saddlebags on a favourite trailside bench and shared smoked salmon, brie and home baked bread with two cycling friends. Life can be good, tho' we did grumble a bit when the occasional intruder (other cyclist) ambled by. Ha. As much as I would like to keep these places all to myself (like your Paw Paw) I suppose that would defeat the purpose of these rewilding spaces - places for all of us to enjoy. (Much like you alsg I grit my teeth at the "alternative" uses you have seen.)
 
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